D30 beef.....yeah, I copied Joe Dillard. Cut out CAD. - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > D30 beef.....yeah, I copied Joe Dillard. Cut out CAD.

GEARSHADE Pocket Tops in stock and available at ROCKRIDGE The ULTIMATE "Selectable" Locker System! BroughFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

Reply
Unread 09-03-2013, 06:56 PM   #1
mudsweatNgearz
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tucson, az
Posts: 450
D30 beef.....yeah, I copied Joe Dillard. Cut out CAD.

I am documenting my d30 build. Credit must be given to this forum and Joe Dillard for the Idea and to my dear wife for allowing me to spend the coin to do not only this mod but the entire Jeep build.

Looking back I should have just went with a d60 or something more substantial instead of sinking this much into a d30. When I bought my Alloy USA shafts, OX locker and new 4:10 gear set for the d30 I didn't know any better. I am fairly easy on the skinny pedal so I may be ok and this is not a dd.

Here goes

Looking at it thinking I must be crazy to do something like this to a d30



The object of my mad surgical skills



I used my chop saw to relieve my axle of it's hunchback goiter





Got my 3 inch OD X 1/4 inch wall DOM tubing in finally. I wrapped paper around the tube to get a straight line all the way around. Next I taped along the straight line as a guide to follow for a straight cut since I don't have a lathe to face the tube square. I decided to use my grinder with a cut off wheel rather than use my abrasive chop saw. Last time I tried to cut DOM tube with my chop saw it barely made it through the tube. I sat the tube in two V blocks and rotated it as I cut with my grinder and it worked better.



Be sure to grind the ends down to get good penetration on the welds.



I drilled six 1/2 inch holes in each end to plug weld the new tube to the stubs of the original axle tube.



On the drivers side I split the short piece of tubing in half and clamped it on the 2-1/2 inch original tubing and welded the splits up as well as welded around the ends.



Here she is all welded up minus the CAD. Be sure to take careful measurements BEFORE starting to cut things up. I actually drew up a print of the axle with all the key dimensions recorded before I started to cut things up. Also be sure to use an angle finder to match the caster from the driver side. To get the width right I measured from upper ball joint grease zerk to the other, that got me dead nuts on the width.
Also be sure to stitch weld alternating sides and not get the axle too hot when welding. Allow plenty of time between stitches...I spent the better part of a day just welding a little, allowing some cool down time then weld a little more.



Next up is to start filling this thing up with goodies. The gear set and master rebuild kit.



When setting up gears I take nothing for granted. I like to find true center line of axle in relation to the bearing cap mounting surface. It is common belief that the machined surface of the bearing cap mating face is true centerline. This is hardly ever true, my axle center line was actually .077 inch above cap mounting surface. Once this distance is established it is a piece of cake from there, it's just a matter of a depth micrometer reading from cap mount surface, to machined face on the pinion gear.

Use half the diameter (radius) of the bearing race.



I then drilled a hole in a nice straight piece of 3/4 stock to bridge across the cap surfaces for my depth mic to get a good reading.



Measuring to find center line of axle shaft.



Got the OX locker installed and set backlash to .008"



By taking careful measurements and taking my time I was able to pin the tooth contact on the first shot. I'm happy with it anyway.



Got the Chromolly shafts inserted.



So this is where she sits now. I still need to install the brake stuff and torque bolts down. I already have new spring perches but need to pick up some shock tabs. I will also be doing the MORE shock hoop mod as this axle goes in so I will document that as well. Hopefully I will have this thing driving by the end of this weekend.

__________________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger and bigger....then it hit me!
mudsweatNgearz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-03-2013, 07:16 PM   #2
jason280
Senior Member
 
jason280's Avatar
1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Middle, Ga
Posts: 947
Looks good so far, I'll definitely be watching this thread progress. Just to be curious, how much did the DOM tubing cost?
jason280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-03-2013, 07:27 PM   #3
mudsweatNgearz
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tucson, az
Posts: 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason280 View Post
Looks good so far, I'll definitely be watching this thread progress. Just to be curious, how much did the DOM tubing cost?
I bought 3 feet shipped to my door for about $70.
__________________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger and bigger....then it hit me!
mudsweatNgearz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-03-2013, 07:43 PM   #4
95YamJam
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 223
Not that this Is not cool but why remove the cad section. Why not just run solid shaft and a small truss?
__________________
My build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/95-yam-project-1527472/?highlight=
95YamJam is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-03-2013, 07:53 PM   #5
mudsweatNgearz
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Tucson, az
Posts: 450
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
Not that this Is not cool but why remove the cad section. Why not just run solid shaft and a small truss?
The stock d30 tube is known to break. It is also CREW tubing and not DOM, so much weaker as well as only 2-1/2 inch diameter.....weaker. One of the detrimental things for axles is tube flex. As the tube flexes the proper gear mesh is lost (pinion and ring move away from each other) and now gears are only driving on the crests of the teeth, read snap, crunch, grind.
__________________
I wondered why the baseball kept getting bigger and bigger....then it hit me!
mudsweatNgearz is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.