I am documenting my d30 build. Credit must be given to this forum and Joe Dillard for the Idea and to my dear wife for allowing me to spend the coin to do not only this mod but the entire Jeep build.
Looking back I should have just went with a d60 or something more substantial instead of sinking this much into a d30. When I bought my Alloy USA shafts, OX locker and new 4:10 gear set for the d30 I didn't know any better. I am fairly easy on the skinny pedal so I may be ok and this is not a dd.
Looking at it thinking I must be crazy to do something like this to a d30
The object of my mad surgical skills
I used my chop saw to relieve my axle of it's hunchback goiter
Got my 3 inch OD X 1/4 inch wall DOM tubing in finally. I wrapped paper around the tube to get a straight line all the way around. Next I taped along the straight line as a guide to follow for a straight cut since I don't have a lathe to face the tube square. I decided to use my grinder with a cut off wheel rather than use my abrasive chop saw. Last time I tried to cut DOM tube with my chop saw it barely made it through the tube. I sat the tube in two V blocks and rotated it as I cut with my grinder and it worked better.
Be sure to grind the ends down to get good penetration on the welds.
I drilled six 1/2 inch holes in each end to plug weld the new tube to the stubs of the original axle tube.
On the drivers side I split the short piece of tubing in half and clamped it on the 2-1/2 inch original tubing and welded the splits up as well as welded around the ends.
Here she is all welded up minus the CAD. Be sure to take careful measurements BEFORE starting to cut things up. I actually drew up a print of the axle with all the key dimensions recorded before I started to cut things up. Also be sure to use an angle finder to match the caster from the driver side. To get the width right I measured from upper ball joint grease zerk to the other, that got me dead nuts on the width.
Also be sure to stitch weld alternating sides and not get the axle too hot when welding. Allow plenty of time between stitches...I spent the better part of a day just welding a little, allowing some cool down time then weld a little more.
Next up is to start filling this thing up with goodies. The gear set and master rebuild kit.
When setting up gears I take nothing for granted. I like to find true center line of axle in relation to the bearing cap mounting surface. It is common belief that the machined surface of the bearing cap mating face is true centerline. This is hardly ever true, my axle center line was actually .077 inch above cap mounting surface. Once this distance is established it is a piece of cake from there, it's just a matter of a depth micrometer reading from cap mount surface, to machined face on the pinion gear.
Use half the diameter (radius) of the bearing race.
I then drilled a hole in a nice straight piece of 3/4 stock to bridge across the cap surfaces for my depth mic to get a good reading.
Measuring to find center line of axle shaft.
Got the OX locker installed and set backlash to .008"
By taking careful measurements and taking my time I was able to pin the tooth contact on the first shot. I'm happy with it anyway.
Got the Chromolly shafts inserted.
So this is where she sits now. I still need to install the brake stuff and torque bolts down. I already have new spring perches but need to pick up some shock tabs. I will also be doing the MORE shock hoop mod as this axle goes in so I will document that as well. Hopefully I will have this thing driving by the end of this weekend.