cutting down body lift blocks

2cjs · 04-22-2005, 10:43 AM

has anyone cut down the nylon body blocks?
I'm taking the 3" blocks off my wifes jeep and I'm gonna cut them into 1" blocks(so I can get 2 -1" body lifts).
I have a sawzall,angle grinder and a pnumatic cut-off tool.
I think the best tool will be the cut-off tool to cut them.I'm an electrician so I know how to cut pipe straight with sawzall so I'm gonna use that knowledge to cut the blocks straight.
TIA
kenny

fastone110 · 04-22-2005, 10:51 AM

i have a 3.5" body lift (which i do not want) that i am wanting to cut down to a 1.5" or 2" when u get down tell me how it went.. and maybe some pics thata be sweet... thanx later

JayJEEPguy · 04-22-2005, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastone110

i have a 3.5" body lift (which i do not want) that i am wanting to cut down to a 1.5" or 2" when u get down tell me how it went.. and maybe some pics thata be sweet... thanx later

How are you measuring your bodylift? The factory rubber bushing on the bottom is typically not measured when you measure the Lift pucks. Pretty sure noone made a 3.5" bodylift. 3" is the max. usually sold.

**MLJeeper** · 04-22-2005, 11:34 AM

I would put the factory finished end against the body and the end i cut against the mount. Should work ok though i would think as long as its a nice clean cut.

2cjs · 04-23-2005, 01:24 PM

yea I don't think it will be a problem.After I cut them I'm going to sand the cut edge to a smooth finish.
I was just wondering if anyone else did this,and what tool they used.

rattletrap · 04-26-2005, 01:42 PM

I dont see a problem cutting it down, just be sure you keep it good and square. Personally I would use a woodworking miter saw with a wood blade. The wood blade will cut the nylon/plastic with no problem. I would set up stop blocks on the saw to ensure that each nylon spacer is the exact same length, also I would clamp down the spacers to keep my fingers away from the blade as you are dealing with some pretty smalll pieces. Additionally you will only get a part of a 2nd lift kit as there is alot of hardware that comes in the kit. another thing you will probably run into is that the bolts will be too long and will have to be replaced or cut down.

Rattletrap

Road Head · 04-26-2005, 01:54 PM

Did it. It was really easy. You could just cut straight down the seam in the middle of the puck, and have (2) 1.5" BLs. That is what I did.

04-23-2005, 01:24 PM	#5
2cjs Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: tennessee Posts: 394 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	yea I don't think it will be a problem.After I cut them I'm going to sand the cut edge to a smooth finish. I was just wondering if anyone else did this,and what tool they used. __________________ 83 cj-7 258c.i., 727auto, d300, d44 front, d60 rear 92'yj 4.3(roller) tbi chevy,700r4 ,soa, 35-12.50-15 maxxis bighorns 89'yj wife's jeep 4.2l stock ,2"bl ,31-10.50-15 bfg mud terrains work smarter not harder

04-26-2005, 01:54 PM	#7
Road Head Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Posts: 75 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Did it. It was really easy. You could just cut straight down the seam in the middle of the puck, and have (2) 1.5" BLs. That is what I did. __________________ 92 YJ, 4.0L, 5-speed, 35" Goodyear MTR's

04-26-2005, 01:42 PM	#6
rattletrap Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 87 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I dont see a problem cutting it down, just be sure you keep it good and square. Personally I would use a woodworking miter saw with a wood blade. The wood blade will cut the nylon/plastic with no problem. I would set up stop blocks on the saw to ensure that each nylon spacer is the exact same length, also I would clamp down the spacers to keep my fingers away from the blade as you are dealing with some pretty smalll pieces. Additionally you will only get a part of a 2nd lift kit as there is alot of hardware that comes in the kit. another thing you will probably run into is that the bolts will be too long and will have to be replaced or cut down. Rattletrap