custom length drive shaft - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
bogleparsons
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custom length drive shaft

I'm taking the driveshaft I sourced from the salvage yard to a machinist freind today.

I have my measurement of 17.5" form SYE yoke to pinion yoke.

I don't know if he is real savvy on this type of work so my question is.

How much compression should my drive shaft have at ride height?


If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 07:43 AM
Anticanman
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There's quite a bit of leeway on the YJ's. You'll probably be fine.

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post #3 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 09:42 AM
skyj
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When I had my XJ shaft built the driveline shop told me he would set it up with ride height at half of the slip. So 1.5" in 1.5" out. He did the same last year with my front cv shaft. He builds drivelines all day long so I figured he knew what he was talking about. With that said I've been running it for two years now without a single problemo

build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/skyj-eccentric-build-1467426/ '90 YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
bogleparsons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyj View Post
When I had my XJ shaft built the driveline shop told me he would set it up with ride height at half of the slip. So 1.5" in 1.5" out. He did the same last year with my front cv shaft. He builds drivelines all day long so I figured he knew what he was talking about. With that said I've been running it for two years now without a single problemo
Thanks skyj, awesome i'll tell him to just make sure the splines are centered for ride height.


i'm full of questions today,

so, should I have him drill and tap for a grease fitting somewhere?

I don't plan to run a boot because of all the mud.

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 10:50 AM
SeanB95YJ
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I'm not a machinist, so there might be issues I'm not aware of....

but rather than cutting at the slip side of the tube, I think I'd rather cut the yoke end of the tube... that way you're leaving the slip splines, grease fitting, etc all untouched.

but yeah, I'd say if he's set on cutting at the slip end, then definitely make sure you've got a zerk in there

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
swap/build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/a...hread-1542284/
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
bogleparsons
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ View Post
I'm not a machinist, so there might be issues I'm not aware of....

but rather than cutting at the slip side of the tube, I think I'd rather cut the yoke end of the tube... that way you're leaving the slip splines, grease fitting, etc all untouched.

but yeah, I'd say if he's set on cutting at the slip end, then definitely make sure you've got a zerk in there
I haven't showed him the shaft yet and there is no factory grease zerk.

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 11:48 AM
SeanB95YJ
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wow... then yeah, regardless of which end it's cut, I'd have a zerk put in for the slip splines.

what was it from? every mid-slip shaft I've seen had one

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
swap/build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/a...hread-1542284/
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 11:50 AM
instg8tor
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for what its worth - it depends on your suspension system. On my yj with SOA suspension I have more droop that compression so I opted to have mine with an 1" compression at ride height, allowing for more driveshaft travel at droop.

'91 Renegade - Waggy 44/20 (F/R Aussie) SOA, E350 MC, York OBA, Custom F/R bumpers
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
bogleparsons
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It's a front shaft from a 95' explorer. It had a "permanently greased" boot but no grease fitting.

The splines were super clean but I do t want a boot with the water and mud I like.

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 02:01 PM
Anticanman
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Is the explorer the same size yoke? Why did you get one from there?

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post #11 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
bogleparsons
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The explorer shaft was less expensive than an XJ or TJ shaft.

It uses the same 1310 u joints. I did have to also buy the adapter plate to the 8.8

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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