Cruise Control Install on '92 YJ, 4.0L, 5 speed - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
cyoos
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Cruise Control Install on '92 YJ, 4.0L, 5 speed

Mfr: Rostra
Rostra P/N: 250-1223
Source: Summit Racing

Control Panel Mfr: Rostra
Control Panel P/N: 250-3592
(This is the open circuit switch with the “Engaged” LED)
Source: Summit Racing

Additional parts required: 5 post relay to wire in this particular Control Panel (I forget the part number, but mine is Duralast from Autozone)

Optional Parts: Universal (Clutch) Disengagement Switch
Mfr: Rostra
Rostra P/N: 250-4206

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post #2 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
cyoos
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1. SET THE DIP SWITCHES BEFORE MOUNTING.


Dip Switch settings:
1 & 2 Gain Sensitivity: #1 OFF
#2 ON


3 – 6 Pulses/Mile (Pulses/Kilometer) #3 ON
For the Jeep this is set at 8,000/m (5,000/k) #4 ON
#5 OFF
#6 OFF


7 – 9 Engine/Setup Timer #7 OFF
Set to 6 Cylinder/Low #8 ON
#9 OFF


10 VSS Source #10 ON
Using vehicles computer this is set to
“Square Wave Input”


11 Transmission (Manual) #11 OFF


12 Control Switch (Open Circuit) #12 OFF
Attached Thumbnails
Cruise dip switches.JPG  
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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2. Cruise unit install: To keep the required distance from the coil and distributor; the only reasonable mounting location I could find in my YJ's engine bay was to attach it to the support rod using 5/16” cable clamps from Tractor Supply.
The linkage is included in a universal parts kit included with the cruise control unit. I used some of the leftover linkage parts to complete the installation of my hand throttle.

3. Control panel install: The control panel had to be in close proximity to the hand throttle for the times when it's necessary for me to use them. I made a shift “knob” using four mountain bike handle bar extenders or grips. This required four sets of them since they come in left/right sets, and I had to use the same angle on all sections for it to work correctly.
The control panel itself is mounted on a bar extender that I sawed off and flattened in a vise.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0052.jpg   IMG_0053.JPG   IMG_0056.JPG   IMG_0058.JPG   Shifter 4.jpg  

Shifter 6.JPG  

Last edited by cyoos; 09-12-2012 at 10:53 PM. Reason: Added step 3
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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4. The “TACH” wire splices into the negative side of the coil. On my '92 this is a Yellow wire with a Black Stripe. I spliced into it at the connector inboard, below, and slightly forward of the battery.
Attached Thumbnails
Connector with Yel-Blk negative coil wire for Tach Signal .JPG  
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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5. I grounded both Black ground wires from the cruise unit to a common ground inboard of the battery on the firewall.
Attached Thumbnails
Engine bay ground point inboard of battery.JPG  
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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6. The wire harness routes into the passenger compartment through the factory firewall grommet.
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post #7 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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7. The VSS wire terminates to the White wire with the Orange Stripe. I opted to terminate this in the instrument panel at the instrument cluster connector.
Attached Thumbnails
Instrument cluster spd-tach connector with wht-org wire for speed signal .JPG  
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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8. The Brake Positive wire terminates to the Pink wire in the brake light switch harness.




9. The Brake Negative wire terminates to the White wire in the brake light switch harness. (This will not work with LED brake lights since it's signal is seeking ground. If you have LED's, you'll have to install an incandescent bulb in the circuit to make it function properly.)
Attached Thumbnails
Brake switch harness above ac blower pink is hot side and white is cold side of switch.JPG  
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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10. The Gray back lighting wire for the LED's on the control panel, I connected to the second wire down from the pink wire on the dimmer. This wire varied in voltage using the dimmer switch when I checked it with the meter, but the LED's don't dim. No big deal, the rest of it works well.
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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11. The control panel requires a 5 post relay. Two posts are connected to the same ignition activated power source. I spliced into the primary “CRUISE” power wire since it's already switched at the fuse block. The Orange wire from the cruise unit, and the Pink wire from the control panel also connect to the relay. Diagram in the installation manual is self-explanatory for them.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_0132.jpg  
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post #11 of 11 Old 09-12-2012, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
cyoos
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12. The Blue and Black wires from the Control Panel are grounded at the drivers door strap post.



13. The fuse block already has a contact for “CRUISE”.




I think that's it. The unit works great. I didn't install the disengagement switch, but I might. Without it, when you disengage the clutch the engine will race up by about 1,000 rpm momentarily before the “TACH” feature shuts down the unit.
Attached Thumbnails
Fuse block connection.jpg  

Last edited by cyoos; 09-12-2012 at 11:09 PM. Reason: Added picture of fuse block
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