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post #1 of 15 Old 11-21-2012, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
limeking
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: O'Fallon MO
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Cowl seal

I replace my cowl seal and the new one leaked, so I put the old one back on and it leaks like a sieve to. Any ideas how to get it to seal?


If there wasn't stuff that sucked, how would we know what was cool? Beavis and Butthead

Jeremy : )
2004 Lime Rubicon, NV3550, JKS arms, and trackbars, UCF tummy tuck, LoPro and engine skid, 3 in tera springs 33 KM2s
1994 Red Wrangler, 2.5 in lift, 31 in no names, 4.0 ax15 30/35
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post #2 of 15 Old 11-21-2012, 03:57 PM
Jax89Jeeper
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Did you adjust the windshield hinges to tighten it up? This fixes it 90% of the time people have this issue.
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post #3 of 15 Old 11-21-2012, 07:03 PM
aleh17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jax89Jeeper View Post
Did you adjust the windshield hinges to tighten it up? This fixes it 90% of the time people have this issue.
would you mind to elaborate in that procedure? I'm having the exact same issue.
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post #4 of 15 Old 11-22-2012, 12:19 AM
jokerchief462
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You can adjust (very little) the angle of the windshield and the pressure it puts on the cowl seal. The hinges have floating captive nuts so back off the hinge bolts for the windshield and the on the spreader bars on the roll cage they are adjustable so you can tighten the big bolt back at the main hoop a little. So here is a tip I had trouble getting my windshield back in place and what I did was use straps around the top of the windshield frame to the main hoop and tighten. Then I tightened the hoop bolts the big ones until they were good and then tightened everything else. Some of the hinge bolts were a PIA so appply one turn at time to each and they will suck right up hopefully this pulls the windshield down on the seal and it tightens up..
Long answer but woorth the read hope you get the idea.
Other people have told us they had two friends sitting on the windshield frame pushing it back. So see how it goes protect the paint from the straps with some rags.

89YJ 2.5L TBI, AX-5, NP231 SYE, Ford 8.8, Yukon Grizzly, Tom Woods Shaft, 33" BFG T/As, 4" lift, Warn VR10000s.

AF Jeep Club Tail #184
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post #5 of 15 Old 11-22-2012, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
limeking
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I am going to try that today!

If there wasn't stuff that sucked, how would we know what was cool? Beavis and Butthead

Jeremy : )
2004 Lime Rubicon, NV3550, JKS arms, and trackbars, UCF tummy tuck, LoPro and engine skid, 3 in tera springs 33 KM2s
1994 Red Wrangler, 2.5 in lift, 31 in no names, 4.0 ax15 30/35
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post #6 of 15 Old 11-22-2012, 07:37 AM
Kuntryboy816
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FOR THE SAKE OF ALL THAT IS HOLY, DO NOT USE CAULK OR SEALANT!!!

The PO of my baby did this and it was a nightmare to say the least. Apparently he was to cheap and lazy to do it the right way. Not only did he do a piss-poor job but the water still found its way in and the dash was all rotted out! He used caulk not only on the rubber cowl piece but also behind the hinges and in every bolt hole he could find (front & side). I eneded up having to drill all but 3 of the bolts and then drilling 1" access holes on the inside lower corners in order to hold the capture nuts (yep they broke off) when re-installing the windshield. Definitely take care of the issue right the first time or you end up with a mess like this!! Luckily it was mostly the dash frame that rotted and only a few minor rust spots on the tub itself.... I so wanted to find this guy and give him a PIF!
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Until you know exactly what is underneath the, well, not really sure what to call them...mistakes...it's hard to come up with a plan of action.
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post #7 of 15 Old 12-18-2012, 01:10 PM
Andywear
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Will be replacing mine tomorrow if all goes well

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #8 of 15 Old 12-18-2012, 02:08 PM
Rproject
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Did you let the seal warm up to room temperature before tried to put it on? That helps a lot.

When I did mine, the windshield was hard to get back to straight because the new seal was so much thicker than the old. I put one hand on the top of the windshield, pulled down and back, while tightening the lower Torx bolt that keeps the windshield in place. Worked in my instance.

1996 White ZJ
1987 Maroon YJ (sideways build)
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The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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post #9 of 15 Old 12-18-2012, 02:44 PM
Andywear
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thanks, Will try that also

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #10 of 15 Old 12-20-2012, 08:51 AM
Andywear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andywear View Post
Will be replacing mine tomorrow if all goes well
Went well enough for me.









Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #11 of 15 Old 12-20-2012, 08:52 AM
Andywear
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Thanks to Morris Off-Road.

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #12 of 15 Old 12-20-2012, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
limeking
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I did mine back in the fall and have tried adjusting the windshield, swapped the old seal in, still leaks.

If there wasn't stuff that sucked, how would we know what was cool? Beavis and Butthead

Jeremy : )
2004 Lime Rubicon, NV3550, JKS arms, and trackbars, UCF tummy tuck, LoPro and engine skid, 3 in tera springs 33 KM2s
1994 Red Wrangler, 2.5 in lift, 31 in no names, 4.0 ax15 30/35
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post #13 of 15 Old 12-20-2012, 10:06 AM
rodgers3
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mine is gettin pretty dry rotted but no leaking yet.
my door seals are a difernt story...
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post #14 of 15 Old 12-20-2012, 10:47 AM
Andywear
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I have bout 1/2-3/4" gap on the doors. seals wont fix that

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


Errrrrrr, Will complain else where - &y
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post #15 of 15 Old 12-20-2012, 11:40 AM
rodgers3
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i only use em a few months a year so its bout bigi
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