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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 03-21-2002, 01:00 PM   #1
cruser
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: coupeville, wa
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couple of newbie questions

Hey guys, I have a 89 4.2L and have a couple of questions.

1) Pretty dumb I know....what is the correct procedure to engage the 4-wheel drive. Last night I just pulled the lever back while in neutral. Then just pushed it back to take out of 4-wheel. Is this procedure correct and is it different for 4-Lo??

2) Been having a couple of problems. After about a week of owning the jeep it all of a sudden just stalled at a stoplight when I pushed the clutch in. It would start right back up just fine, but wouldn't hold its idle. I took it to a shop and they replaced the distributor and adjusted the carb. Seemed to run better, but it will still stall on me. The carb was just replaced about a year ago and the jeep has 78k miles. The shop said a lot of the smog equipment has been removed and they had to redo a few vacuum lines. This morning on my way to work it happened again so I jumped out and sped the idle up. Turned the idle screw about three turns. Now it obviously idles a little high, but didn't die on me. Any ideas on what could be going on??? The engine runs fine when cold, but once it warms up it won't always hold the idle. Its wierd, sometimes the idle will be fine once warm other times it will fall to around 500 rpm and others just die. It is very frustrating. Want to be able to fix myself and not keep spending dollars at the shop.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the length.

Ryan

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Unread 03-21-2002, 01:45 PM   #2
V8wrangler_idaho
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your totally haveing carb problems. from the sound of it it might be the float level. but you said that it runs fine cold so you might want to check the way that they fuel is routed to the carb. im not sure how they have the fuel lines on the carb 4.2 motors but the cooler that you can keep the gas befor it gets to the carb the better it will run. So if you see anywhere that the gas line gets close to any heat soreces try to move it away from it or keep the heat away from the gas lines. It will run better that way. I used to race my mustang and had the same problem that your having. took me allot carb adjustment and getting the fule lines away from all the heat soreces to fix it.
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93 wrangler 8 inch SOA SRS suspention lift 35/12.50 Mt. efi 350 700r4 tranny np 205 t case dana 44s front and rear. lots of extras.
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Unread 03-21-2002, 07:22 PM   #3
Coot
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It might be the O2 sensor when my Baby Bronco had problems like that it was the O2 sensor
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92 Jeep YJ, 4 Banger, Cold air intake, Electric fan, 1 inch motor mount lift, 8.8 rear axle Limited Slip 4.10's, SOA, 2 inch body, 35x12.5 Pro Comp MT on 15x8 AR-767
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Unread 03-21-2002, 08:13 PM   #4
cruser
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V8Wrangler & Coot- thanks guys for your responses. I will look into both of those.

I have been searching around and have found that at least I am not alone with my problem. I was afraid I had bought a pos. Looks like the carb may have to go. I have seen people have upgraded to the weber carb and the TFI upgrade. From what I can tell the TFI upgrade has to do with the distributor. My distributor was just replaced yesterday, would I still need to do this upgrade?? Also does anyone know and approx cost on the weber carb?? This stalling at stoplights is getting old fast.

Thanks again
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Unread 03-21-2002, 09:33 PM   #5
cruser
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Alright found out some more info. I found the carb at topendperformance for $369 is this the best place to buy from??

Thanks
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