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Unread 11-04-2007, 08:13 PM   #16
pasinbuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryanpowell167
Did you read the whole post? He says the pump does not cycle....

.
I guess I should keep my jokes to myself. my mistake, I was not keeping it real.

Thanks for not getting down on me to much.

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Unread 11-04-2007, 09:08 PM   #17
94laredo
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The only things that are working are the headlights, brakelights, and flashers/blinkers. There is not a radio, only a CB in its place. I have checked the wires from the push button back to the fuse box but I havent gone to the ignition side. I think that the guy that did the work just spliced into the ignition and now it just uses the button to complete the circuit. Also, did the 95s have fusable links because I had a 90 XJ and blew one and it took months to figure out what it was. I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. Thanks for all the help.
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Unread 11-04-2007, 09:24 PM   #18
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94laredo
The only things that are working are the headlights, brakelights, and flashers/blinkers. There is not a radio, only a CB in its place. I have checked the wires from the push button back to the fuse box but I havent gone to the ignition side. I think that the guy that did the work just spliced into the ignition and now it just uses the button to complete the circuit. Also, did the 95s have fusable links because I had a 90 XJ and blew one and it took months to figure out what it was. I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. Thanks for all the help.
the maxi fuses under the hood took the place of the fusible links in the earlier models. the problem with using the button to complete the circuit is that it's probably a momentary switch, otherwise your starter would always be engaged. it would have to have a second switch involved in order to both power the computer and the starter or else the key wouldn't have to be on in order to start the jeep. you need to find out if you've got power on that red wire coming into the ign switch. if you've got power coming in, but nothing going out on the yellow wire (with the key on of course) then the switch is the problem. either the rod isn't moving it correctly or you could have a bad switch out of the box. if you don't have power coming in on that red wire then either the new fuse blew as soon as you put it in (indicating a short still in affect most likely) or there's a break in the wire.
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92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
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Unread 11-05-2007, 01:45 PM   #19
94laredo
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Glad to hear that it isnt a fuse link. Ill check that red wire as soon as I get home. Ill also check all the fuses again to see if they are blown. If they arent, could it still be a short? I probably should have said this but before it completely stopped working I had to jiggle the key around and move the column to get it back home. Im getting frustated and I am about to get a new harness instead of messing with this thing.
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Unread 11-05-2007, 03:27 PM   #20
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94laredo
Glad to hear that it isnt a fuse link. Ill check that red wire as soon as I get home. Ill also check all the fuses again to see if they are blown. If they arent, could it still be a short? I probably should have said this but before it completely stopped working I had to jiggle the key around and move the column to get it back home. Im getting frustated and I am about to get a new harness instead of messing with this thing.
if they're not blown but you still have no power then it likely means you just have a broken wire. the short that blew the fuses could have melted the wiring in two. if you have to wiggle the column then it sounds like something along those lines. when you test the red wire, if it comes up with no power, run a jumper to pos side of the battery to that wire just in front of the switch for kicks. then see if it will catch. if it does, then you just need to either trace that wire back and repair it, or run a fused jumper more permanently.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 11-05-2007, 09:40 PM   #21
94laredo
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I got home late and went to check the red wire, no power. I started at the red wire and went back looking for any burn marks. About 12" back I found what looks like a melted wire. I will pull the tape off tomorrow and see if the wire is burned though(its cold, windy and dark outside). I really think that I found the source of the problem this, wish me luck.
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Unread 11-06-2007, 05:47 PM   #22
94laredo
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I took the shrink wrap off of the wires that looked burned and I found that the yellow wire was burned. It wasnt burned all the way through but I changed it anyways. Then I turned the key to the on position and nothing. I thought that I had it this time but it looks like I will have to keep looking. Would I be better off just changing the harness? I know that its a little extreme but I need to get this thing fixed.
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Unread 11-06-2007, 06:19 PM   #23
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94laredo
I took the shrink wrap off of the wires that looked burned and I found that the yellow wire was burned. It wasnt burned all the way through but I changed it anyways. Then I turned the key to the on position and nothing. I thought that I had it this time but it looks like I will have to keep looking. Would I be better off just changing the harness? I know that its a little extreme but I need to get this thing fixed.
i don't know about a whole new harness, but at this point i would definitely think about running new wires. if the yellow wire was burnt, but not all the way through, then there's a chance that it did burn through further down the line. did you check the red wire for power? did you try jumping it right to the battery to see if it would start then?

just to be sure you checked the fuses under the dash as well right? the 10A dome fuse under there actually controls the computer as well, but it takes power off that yellow wire. if you're testing the wire at the switch it shouldn't matter that the fuse is blown. you'd still get a 12V signal when you put your meter to ground.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 11-07-2007, 12:15 AM   #24
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may not be the same as yours, but ill try.

i have a 92 yj 4.0l and 5 speed. i had same problem as you with no spark at coil. my ign fuse kept blowing and it turns out my starter relay was shorted out internally and causing a direct short to ground.

when i turned on my key, i would not get anything in the dash to light up and no buzzer sound or anything, but the head lights came on and the motor turned over, just no spark.

mine had a black/white wire wich carried voltage to the coil and also the fuel injectors and the rest of the ign system. i followed that black white wire all the way till it went under the dash to the shorted relay.

10 dollar part. simple. located near the driver side door, underneath the dash on the side.

autozone has some diagrams that are decent, but not perfect. i used these in conjunction with the chiltons manual and viola!!
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Unread 11-07-2007, 08:04 AM   #25
94laredo
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I will have to try that relay. Everyone that I talk to thinks that there is a relay or fuse bad somewhere but I have checked them and they all look good. I didnt realize that the dome light fuse controled the computer. I may just stop by the parts store and get a couple of relays and try that. myoutboards, did your fuel pump prime when you put the key in the on position? There is no power to the red wire with the key in the on position so I thought that it would have been something with that wire and not the yellow wire. Would the relays under the hood be causing a problem like this? If so, which ones?
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Unread 11-07-2007, 05:42 PM   #26
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94laredo
I will have to try that relay. Everyone that I talk to thinks that there is a relay or fuse bad somewhere but I have checked them and they all look good. I didnt realize that the dome light fuse controled the computer. I may just stop by the parts store and get a couple of relays and try that. myoutboards, did your fuel pump prime when you put the key in the on position? There is no power to the red wire with the key in the on position so I thought that it would have been something with that wire and not the yellow wire. Would the relays under the hood be causing a problem like this? If so, which ones?
that red wire should be hot with the key on or off. that's the hot feed for everything else that the ignition switch is supposed to power. it should be a pretty direct feed from the fuse under the hood. if it's not hot, then you have to find out why in order for the rest of the switch to work. once they switch is on then it feeds power into the yellow wire and through that into the dome fuse and the thus the computer. no power on the red wire, no computer to power your relays etc.

it's either a problem with the fuse itself (check it with a meter as they can blow and still look good. had it happen to me) or in the wiring/fuse box connection. start at the box (take it apart and find the very start of the wire. it's not hard) and then start tracing it back toward the ignition switch.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 11-10-2007, 03:42 PM   #27
94laredo
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I got it started but I had to use a jumper straight from the battery to do it. I guess that this means that there is a break in the red wire from the ignition switch then, right? Would it be easier just to put a fuse on this wire and keep it there perminantly? I looked all under the dash for the break and couldnt find it. I finally just got tired of looking for it and took your advice on the jumper. Thanks for all the help.
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Unread 11-11-2007, 07:34 AM   #28
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94laredo
I got it started but I had to use a jumper straight from the battery to do it. I guess that this means that there is a break in the red wire from the ignition switch then, right? Would it be easier just to put a fuse on this wire and keep it there perminantly? I looked all under the dash for the break and couldnt find it. I finally just got tired of looking for it and took your advice on the jumper. Thanks for all the help.
as long as you fuse it correctly and run it safely through the firewall then you could leave it there. the wire shouldn't be hard to find in the fuse box though. the box itself slides off the mount and then the bottom unclips to reveal the back side of the terminals. just find the ign fuse terminals and trace the wire back through the loom. either way works. glad you got it started
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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