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Unread 10-24-2011, 01:49 PM   #1
--chris--
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Compression union on brake lines?

Im doing repairs on my 94 after my front brake line rusted, then blew out last friday on the way home from work. I have replaced the blown line in the front with new 3/16" one piece, flared and its ready to hook up. But im also replacing my rear brake line after i accidentally crimped the wrong line in a parking lot.

The rear line is a little tricky since it has many curves and runs inboard then outboard then inboard again on part of the frame. I asked the guy at the auto parts store what i should do, he said "use a compression fitting, thats what they are made for" (in reference to using two smaller pieces to complete the maze to the back of the wrangler).

Well after hitting the search im seeing a lot of "DO NOT EVER" use compression fittings from many sites, many people...

First, is that a terrible idea to use a compression fitting on brakes?

Second, if it is does anyone have a suggestion or some first hand know how for routing the rear brake line? Does it have to follow the factory path, or could i just hug it to the frame and check for clearance issues on the way?

Third, what about this stuff? Id rather not wait for it to get here, so its a last resort.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/brake-lines...8d1202y1994j1#

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Unread 10-24-2011, 01:55 PM   #2
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I just went and looked, i see no reason why i should not be able to run the rear line straight down the frame, past the fuel filter and skip the inboard/outboard factory routing. No moving parts, no pivot points, protected from the road/trail.

Am i wrong?
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Unread 10-24-2011, 02:08 PM   #3
Findlay_Jeepin
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I would run the line where it is protected...you make the call. On the fittings. I bought a double flaring kit from my local Advanced Auto store for like $30 and it worked like a charm.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 02:20 PM   #4
jbolty
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Never, never, NEVER use compression fitting for brakes. They will not hold up under the pressure.

The proper fitting is a union that takes a flare on both sides.

It's not important to follow the exact path, as lons as it's safely out of harms way.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 03:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Never, never, NEVER use compression fitting for brakes. They will not hold up under the pressure.

The proper fitting is a union that takes a flare on both sides.

It's not important to follow the exact path, as lons as it's safely out of harms way.
Anyone have a name i can take to the store for this union? I have an idea what it would look like, but a trade name would be great.

And thanks guys, Ill see if i can find that correct union. If i cant, then i will just pull the two pieces and run a new single down the frame rail.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 03:49 PM   #6
plumber1
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Tell them you need a flare union and you will also need a flaring tool

check out this line this will show you how, this is on copper but it the same for steel, stainless


http://www.realtor.com/home-garden/d...-fittings.aspx
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Unread 10-24-2011, 03:53 PM   #7
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No need for a flaring tool. Just get two pieces that will reach from the proportioning valve all the way to the rear axle connector. As I recall I was able to do it with a 50" and a 36".

Really, you should replace all the lines if you have rust.

Do it up right and replace the hard and soft lines, as well as the calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Fresh clean fluid and it will definately improve your braking. The entire job will only cost about $150


The link above is for a single flare, brake lines are double flared.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 03:59 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
No need for a flaring tool. Just get two pieces that will reach from the proportioning valve all the way to the rear axle connector. As I recall I was able to do it with a 50" and a 36".

Really, you should replace all the lines if you have rust.

Do it up right and replace the hard and soft lines, as well as the calipers, wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Fresh clean fluid and it will definately improve your braking. The entire job will only cost about $150


The link above is for a single flare, brake lines are double flared.
^^^^^
You just saved me a ton of extra work! I did not know brake lines were double flare. I have been single flaring all my connections. I will hit them again tomorrow before i assemble everything to finish off the flaring process.

The funny thing about the soft lines is that they look pretty new. I actually went through the hassle of saving mine after the brake lines broke off in the connectors.

I would love to do the whole system right now, but its my DD and i need to get it back on the road. The next time i get some vacation time, ill have a nice list of things to do on this

Does anyone have a tip for how to replace the front passenger side brake line? The way its routed from the factory looks like it would be hell to try and re-do with the body on the frame.

And thanks again!
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Unread 10-24-2011, 04:05 PM   #9
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Never use compression fittings on brake lines (unless you want to die.)
Never use single-flare tubing, tools and fittings (unless you want to die.)
Always use double-flare tubing, tools and fittings.
Period.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 04:18 PM   #10
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I bought the longest line they had at advance that was already flared. I did mine with the fenders and grille off after my 4.0 swap. It would have been a huge pita to do with the clip on....but not impossible.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 04:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wgirvine View Post
Never use compression fittings on brake lines (unless you want to die.)
Never use single-flare tubing, tools and fittings (unless you want to die.)
Always use double-flare tubing, tools and fittings.
Period.
lol, got it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hghgrad View Post
I bought the longest line they had at advance that was already flared. I did mine with the fenders and grille off after my 4.0 swap. It would have been a huge pita to do with the clip on....but not impossible.
I might use two pieces to replace the front as well. One piece to go from the proportioning valve and snake it behind the steering hardware and onto the front bumper. The piece two will pick up on the front bumper, and work over to the wheel. That should be easier to one piece.
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Unread 10-24-2011, 04:55 PM   #12
badmax
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any state with strict inspection laws will not pass a vehicle with a compression fitting on the brake lines
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Unread 10-24-2011, 06:35 PM   #13
Hghgrad
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We live in Michigan. No inspections, smog, CARB regulations, nada.

They don't enforce any tire coverage laws around me, or lift laws, or tint laws. Basically, as long as there isn't a body dragging behind it and you don't toss your beer bottle at the cop cars directly, you're good
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Unread 10-24-2011, 07:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badmax View Post
any state with strict inspection laws will not pass a vehicle with a compression fitting on the brake lines
Finally an inspection law I can respect.
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Unread 10-25-2011, 09:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hghgrad View Post
We live in Michigan. No inspections, smog, CARB regulations, nada.

They don't enforce any tire coverage laws around me, or lift laws, or tint laws. Basically, as long as there isn't a body dragging behind it and you don't toss your beer bottle at the cop cars directly, you're good
lol ^^^ Pretty much this. As far as i can tell, inspection laws dont exist here. Aside from the basic requirements (mirrors, red tail brake lights, working headlights/turn signals) i have never seen a ticker for vehicle mods/degradation.

Thanks again to everyone.
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