Compression and Droop Talk - Page 2 -

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post #16 of 19 Old 01-06-2014, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Dre, are you saying you pulled your springs and put in a main leaf only and then flexed it?

can you give some more insight and details?
I don't totally get what you did nor why you did it,
but I have my front springs sitting in the garage, I'll definitely undo them to check some flex.

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post #17 of 19 Old 01-06-2014, 08:35 PM
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I have a spare set of springs same lift as what I have on my rig. When I swapped in my 8.8 and fab up my own gas tank skid I wanted to check to make sure the notch I put it skid would be enough to clear the 8.8. So I put the main spring in with a block that made up for the missing springs and I raised it up and also tested droop.
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post #18 of 19 Old 01-06-2014, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, I like that. Probably be a while before I have a lifted spare, but yeah, one sorting has a lot lower rate, you could probably get full compression just by putting some weight on the back end

posted this from my phone

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post #19 of 19 Old 02-17-2014, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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alright, so I'm still not ready for droop, nor will I be for a while, but I did check for basic compression,
I just put a plate over the gas tank and loaded it with ~1500 pounds,
the ratchet strap idea was working alright, but it just "feels" a bit more "sketchy"
I took some measurements for my drive line, but it'll have to be adjusted some in the near future, so i'll probably do it a second time then.
the full compression is definitely good for gas tank clearance, but you need a few inches of stretch for that to ever become a problem,
but my main thing I'm thinking, is if I fully compress and droop the pumpkin, take the max and min angle, and split the middle as my perch angle,
then that might limit my axle wrap. I know everyone is all about track bars and such, but let's be honest, I'd rather do things the wrong way as always.

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