i8bugs said:
OK, now I'm having some trouble getting into first at full stop. Looks like it's time to order the clutch kit.
Since this is my first clutch job, are there any detailed posts from the past I can read up on that describe the full job? Maybe with some picts? I have a YJ Chiltons, but it isn't very good...it jumps around because of model years and is hard to follow. Anyway, looking for job prep, things to consider...look out for and stuff to have on hand. Don't want to run back and forth to the store which is a 56 mile round trip, and most everything has to be ordered!
-bugs
I'll try to throw up some pics later if I can find them. It's a pretty easy job, and if you've got a good set of tools and have done other automotive jobs, should be able to get it done, at a leisurely pace, in one day or a weekend.
Here's a list of things you're likely to need:
Capable and STABLE floor jack (Transmission jack adaptor (or full blown trans jack) is really nice to have, but not required)
Long socket extensions / u-joints to get to the bellhousing / attachment bolts. Various standard and metric sockets (assuming you already have these and other basic tools). Torque wrench - of course.
E-12 external torx socket - you MIGHT not need this, Jeep used a variety of fasteners to hold these transmissions on, check carefully before the job or have one on hand JIC.
Penetrating oil such as PB for skid plate bolts, exhaust bolts (if neccessary or desired to remove), etc...
Pilot bearing puller, if the pilot has never been changed, change it - should come with your clutch kit - if not, get a new one - or I have a pilot for a 2.5l I'll mail ya. I HIGHLY recommend the puller (~$15 or borrow) over the 'hydraulic' method which tends to get grease everywhere.
Clutch alignment tool - should come with your kit - if not buy / borrow one - shold be readily available - you can also use a spare AX-5 input shaft if there's one 'lying around'
Zip ties are nice for holding components such as the shift linkage, etc... out of the way while you're pulling and re-installing.
Other things to think about while you're in there:
Remove the flywheel and have it turned - most clutch warranties are not valid without 'proof of flywheel resurfacing'
Replace the rear main seal / oil pan gasket - the 2.5l isn't as bad as the 4.0, but if it's never been done on your engine, good insurance.
With any clutch job, be careful when tightening down the pressure plate, go in a cross tightening pattern as SOON as the bolts touch the housing using 1/2 rotations until you're ready to torque - this will maintain even pressure on the disc and avoid any warpage or cracking problems.
Good luck with the job!