from here it gets rough
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Beyond Honolulu
Shouldn't be too hard to bleed, unless you're trying to do it by yourself. I generally use the following technique.
1) have friend push in clutch pedal and hold
2) open bleeder valve, let it spew, then re-tighten it
3) tell friend to let up on the clutch pedal, may require him/her to lift it back up by hand sometimes, then push it back down again.
Repeat numerous times until you get a good feeling pedal. Don't let your master reservoir run low doing this, you'll just end up pumping air into the line.
Here is another technique I found from a google search:
Don't vacuum bleed your clutch first off. Gravity bleed it initially, then followed by a simple open/close bleed a couple of times. First remove the cap to your master cylinder and top the fluid, then bleed all of the old fluid out by opening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE FLUID LEVEL GO TO LOW WHEN DOING THIS, you will only get air in your system. So check the fluid level in the master cylinder when the old fluid is coming out. Then once all of the old fluid is out close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder to a point where its drips around 3 times a second. Let this continue to drip at this 3x per second rate for 15minutes, BE SURE NOT TO LET THE FLUID LEVEL GO TO LOW WHEN DOING THIS. After 15 minutes close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, top off the master cylinder and put its cap on, then pump the clutch till you get pressure. If its good, leave it. If not open/close bleed it, to do that simply remove the master cap, press and hold the clutch pedal in(Use a 2x4, floor jack handle or whatever else you can find that presses the pedal tightly to the floor). Then open the valve on the slave cylinder, after its done spewing crap out close it. Repeat this 3-5 times. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE FLUID LEVEL GO TO LOW WHEN DOING THIS, so check after every repetition. Then close everything up and make sure the fluid levels are topped off, pump the clutch several times and you should be good to go.
Also, the slave cylinders (a.k.a. release bearings) are very prone to failure, especially the internal ones. I've replaced 4 to date in my XJ, the first was stock at 190k, then the 2nd one went out 6months after it was installed, the 3rd was a d.o.a. part that had to be replaced immediately since it was defective. Finally I manned up and bought the aluminum housed slave cylinder, I've noticed a huge improvement in shifting over the last 2 plastic ones that were in there. Jeeps tend to be extremely hard on o.e.m. parts and they have a tendency to fail early. Only buy high quality replacement parts for a jeep, TRUST ME ON THIS. I've replaced things 2-3 times by buying cheaper o.e.m. stuff that you get at autozone/ schucks....etc.
Seems wasteful of brake fluid to me, but if it works for you, it's worth it.
....I'm not smart, but I can lift heavy things.......
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We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.