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Unread 09-12-2013, 03:58 PM   #31
Opihi59
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It did that well, as did mine, since it was OEM. What you get now to replace it with generally is not of the same quality and there are tales of woe from Jeepers who have had to replace it several times in a row over several months to get a good one. Generally we tend to recommend getting an OEM style internal slave, and not an aftermarket POS for that reason.

I converted to external slave the first chance I got and am very happy with that.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 04:19 PM   #32
rodgers3
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I got everything all put together and my is it so much better than the old clutch lol.
I am having an issue with bleading it.
I still have air in the system I think.
When I depress the clutch I can shift and its fine but if I leave my foot on the clutch pedal at all after i shift it goes flat then slowly rises back uo to the top.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 04:51 PM   #33
jimbos76cj
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Hey take a few times of bleeding to get em right. Try not to leave your foot on the clutch. Even a little bit of pressure will push it into the pressure plate fingers causing your throw out bearing to wear faster the normal. Same thing with people that leave those hand on the shifter.. It can add pressure to the shift form causing the pads to wear.
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 05:07 PM   #34
rodgers3
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Iv blead it several times I got sick of it. Will some of the air "bubble" out to the master? Or keep trying to bleed it?
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Unread 09-15-2013, 06:38 PM   #35
Opihi59
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Shouldn't be too hard to bleed, unless you're trying to do it by yourself. I generally use the following technique.

1) have friend push in clutch pedal and hold
2) open bleeder valve, let it spew, then re-tighten it
3) tell friend to let up on the clutch pedal, may require him/her to lift it back up by hand sometimes, then push it back down again.
Repeat numerous times until you get a good feeling pedal. Don't let your master reservoir run low doing this, you'll just end up pumping air into the line.

Here is another technique I found from a google search:

Don't vacuum bleed your clutch first off. Gravity bleed it initially, then followed by a simple open/close bleed a couple of times. First remove the cap to your master cylinder and top the fluid, then bleed all of the old fluid out by opening the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE FLUID LEVEL GO TO LOW WHEN DOING THIS, you will only get air in your system. So check the fluid level in the master cylinder when the old fluid is coming out. Then once all of the old fluid is out close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder to a point where its drips around 3 times a second. Let this continue to drip at this 3x per second rate for 15minutes, BE SURE NOT TO LET THE FLUID LEVEL GO TO LOW WHEN DOING THIS. After 15 minutes close the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, top off the master cylinder and put its cap on, then pump the clutch till you get pressure. If its good, leave it. If not open/close bleed it, to do that simply remove the master cap, press and hold the clutch pedal in(Use a 2x4, floor jack handle or whatever else you can find that presses the pedal tightly to the floor). Then open the valve on the slave cylinder, after its done spewing crap out close it. Repeat this 3-5 times. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE FLUID LEVEL GO TO LOW WHEN DOING THIS, so check after every repetition. Then close everything up and make sure the fluid levels are topped off, pump the clutch several times and you should be good to go.

Also, the slave cylinders (a.k.a. release bearings) are very prone to failure, especially the internal ones. I've replaced 4 to date in my XJ, the first was stock at 190k, then the 2nd one went out 6months after it was installed, the 3rd was a d.o.a. part that had to be replaced immediately since it was defective. Finally I manned up and bought the aluminum housed slave cylinder, I've noticed a huge improvement in shifting over the last 2 plastic ones that were in there. Jeeps tend to be extremely hard on o.e.m. parts and they have a tendency to fail early. Only buy high quality replacement parts for a jeep, TRUST ME ON THIS. I've replaced things 2-3 times by buying cheaper o.e.m. stuff that you get at autozone/ schucks....etc.


Seems wasteful of brake fluid to me, but if it works for you, it's worth it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 09-17-2013, 03:37 PM   #36
rodgers3
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Ok I have a weird issue and I think the master is to blame?
When I push the pedal slowly the fluid rises in the master but if I push it in shift let off its fine and doesnt fluctuate
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Unread 09-18-2013, 10:02 PM   #37
rodgers3
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New master and a helper to bleed the clutch and everything is good.
Im amazed how good a new clutch grabs! Its night and day compaired to the almost warn out one.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 12:10 AM   #38
Opihi59
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Sounds like a success story. Good on ya, mate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 04:25 AM   #39
jimbos76cj
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Florida
Posts: 420
So after it all said and done are you glad to did it your self? P
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88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 06:33 AM   #40
rodgers3
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Location: imperial, missouri
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It was a pain in the a*s but I saved 400$
Im not sure id want to do it agin but I know it wouldnt take as long because iv done it once. Im happy I did it learned alot in the process
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