Clutch / Shifting problems 92 YJ 4.0L - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
phoric
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Clutch / Shifting problems 92 YJ 4.0L

My YJ has been doing this for a while but it's getting worse and more difficult to drive in the city or in traffic. The Jeep has 170,000 miles and the clutch is an aftermarket Centerforce.

From a stop, it's difficult to get into first gear (or reverse), usually requiring me to pump the clutch several times before it goes in. From there on it's not bad, shifting is slightly on the rough side, but as long as I'm moving or rolling at least little bit, it will shift okay.

In the city this is a problem because if I don't hold down the clutch the entire time while sitting at a stop light, it can take a few seconds to get moving once the light turns green.

It's always grinded when trying to get into reverse, unless I put it into second or something first and then quickly shift into reverse with the clutch still held in.

Does this just sound like air in the master/slave lines? Bleeding issue? Or is it more of a transmission gear or synchro problem?

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post #2 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 04:25 PM
stenyeart
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Due to the fact that you are able to get it into gear (at a stop) by pumping the clutch, I would say that you are looking at a hydraulic issue.

Do you have any leaks? How is the fluid level?
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post #3 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Fluid level in the master seems good. I haven't tried bleeding yet because I don't have anyone around to help. Is there a trick method to bleed it myself?
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post #4 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 04:55 PM
Mean Max
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Start by looking under the dash for signs of the master cylinder leaking.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...l/P1000106.jpg

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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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post #5 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 05:05 PM
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if slave was leaking you would probably see a drop in your fluid level. Also just FYI the 92 YJ has an internal slave cylinder so it's basically a full clutch job to fix that. You can convert it to a '95 YJ version but I think you'll also need the bell housing to do that if I remember correctly. It's been a while since i had this problem with mine. I eventually ended up swapping in a TJ NV3550 tranny which fixed a lot of my problems and gave me the external slave cylinder
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post #6 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Start by looking under the dash for signs of the master cylinder leaking.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/w...l/P1000106.jpg

Max
Done. No obvious sign of leakage. There's a little bit of dirt in one spot but nothing like what the picture shows. Otherwise clean and dry.
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post #7 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 05:25 PM
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any paint missing? this stuff will eat it


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post #8 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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any paint missing? this stuff will eat it
No, but the bottom of the Jeep is all Rhino-lined, up to about 1" below the master line behind the pedals.

If there is any master leaking it must be very small. The fluid level is about mid-way up the cylinder.

I suppose I should try and bleed it, but like I said, I don't have anyone to help. I'm wondering if the air will travel up and bubble out of the master if I just remove the cover and pump it a bunch of times?

If it's the slave cylinder, then it'll have to wait since I don't have a tranny jack and can't afford a shop visit right now. Plus, I've never done any transmission work so not sure I'm comfortable enough with doing it myself.

Thanks guys for your replies thus far.
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post #9 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 05:42 PM
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tape a piece off paper under there and you might find if there is a drip? also do that under the master


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post #10 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 05:46 PM
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clutch job is really not that bad except for getting the stupid bearings out of the flywheel. But you probably live near some wheeling buddies who could help. You don't need a tranny jack to swap out a clutch, just use a regular floor jack and possibly some buddies to guide it down. its a good one to learn on especially if you've got help. I was scared to death the first time I did it on mine but you never gonna learn until you try! If you've got a garage and some decent tools this isn't that big of a deal


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post #11 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 07:20 PM
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My bet is if you just bleed it, it will return to normal. Mine did. Of course, I later learned I had a leaking master and replaced it also. Easy job.
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post #12 of 12 Old 02-19-2012, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so I just got back from a 20 minute test drive after gravity bleeding it. It seemed to have mostly fixed it at least for now. It's not totally smooth but I can now put it into first from a dead stop without sitting there pumping it repeatedly like before.

What I did was attached some small clear vinyl tubing to the nipple (air hose like you get from a fish/aquarium store). I cracked the nipple loose, and kept the master fluid chamber full while it drained out. I had to pump the clutch just once to get it moving, after that it drained on it's own. After a few minutes I saw some air coming down the tube. I bled it for 1 new bottle of synthetic brake fluid. But if I wiggle or loosen the nipple a little more the air seems to stop, so I'm not totally sure if the air is being introduced by the nipple or tube itself, or if it's coming from inside the system.

In any case it seems to have helped. I suppose time will tell how long it holds up, if it fixed the problem or just treated the symptom...
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