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Unread 09-25-2009, 10:53 AM   #1
rthompson48082
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clutch problem ? Master / Slave Cylinder Problem

so i have been having numerous problems shifting in and out of gear.

1st - after sitting i cannot shift into gear unless i do the old rock the jeep trick

2nd - have had a grinding/rattling noise in the trans in 2nd,3rd and 5th gears since i got the jeep...if i push in the clutch...all noises go away

3rd - today it started grinding slightly when shifting gears while driving...if im rolling slowly i can shift into any gears no problem...


from doing some research on the forum today i dont know if i should start with the master/slave cylinder replacement or do a flat out clutch replacement...i only have cash to do one or the other this week...suggestions ? tips ?


also, i noticed some fluid collecting around my slave cylinder...

could a bad slave cylinder cause grinding/rattling in my trans ?


i dont know what to do here fella's/gals....any help is appreciated.

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Unread 09-25-2009, 12:31 PM   #2
rthompson48082
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no one wants to chime in one this one ? cmon fella's..haha
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Unread 09-25-2009, 12:41 PM   #3
letitloose06
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Sounds like you are having a hydraulic issue. If you see brake fluid around your slave cylinder, that is most likely your issue. One way to tell is to check the level of your clutch master cylinder.
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Unread 09-25-2009, 12:44 PM   #4
rthompson48082
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i have no fluid loss in my clutch master...
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Unread 09-25-2009, 05:06 PM   #5
Rproject
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All of the symptoms you're describing can very easily be the clutch. When you check your fluid, are you removing the boot under the cap? Sorry for the stupid question, but it has to be asked. If not, then all the fluid you're seeing is sitting inside the cup of the boot.

We had identical problems with ours, but did not see fluid right away. When we got low on fluid, she would be an absolute queen to shift. Add fluid, shifts like a dream. After 6 months of this we finally started to see fluid. Replaced master & slave as a sealed package, problem gone.
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Unread 09-25-2009, 09:19 PM   #6
rthompson48082
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im not sure what you mean by the boot under the cap...so im guessing im not...can you ellaborate on this..maybe this is my issue..

-rich
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Unread 09-25-2009, 09:38 PM   #7
Rproject
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When you pull the cap, there's a black rubber boot that sits inside the cap. More times than not it stays in the reservoir. It has a lip on it that is the same size as the reservoir, so it's real easy to not realize it's there.

Next time you pull the cap, just touch the inside of the cap. If it's all rubbery the boot is there, if you feel plastic, pull the boot from the top of the master cylinder. You might just find that you're several ounces low on clutch fluid when you thought you were just fine.

I remember when a mechanic buddy of mine asked me, "did you pull the boot?" I looked at him like, "What boot?" When I got home it was the FIRST thing I checked. Low and behold I was about 3 ounces low on clutch fluid. It's one of those things that once you know about it, you'll never get burnt by it again, and one of those things where you'll go, "OK, now I feel stupid", but A LOT of people miss it.
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Unread 09-25-2009, 09:48 PM   #8
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I'm thinking my description above kinda sucks, so here's a pic of the master cylinder cover and the boot that is supposed to be inside the cover.

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Unread 09-26-2009, 06:08 PM   #9
rthompson48082
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wow, im gonna go check now...can i pull the pull without fluid going everywhere ? oh hell, im just gonna go look. haha....more to follow

-rich
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Unread 09-26-2009, 06:21 PM   #10
rthompson48082
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ok, i just checked...the rubber boot is coming out with the cap...fluids are topped off..thing i dont get is how can my fluid be topped off but i can tell for sure it seems to be leaking from where the slave cylinder mounts below..in fact it looks like im missing a possible rubber gasket or something. i have a little play in my slave cylinder....im thinking with my grinding issues coming from the trans(only when clutch is not pushed in), maybe i should just replace my clutch this week...i hope the whining/rattling noise is coming from my throwout bearing...but again, im not sure....

if i decide to do the clutch this week, is there anything else i should do(something possibly cheap), while i have the trans dropped..

or am i totally on the wrong track here...should i do the clutch master/slave cylinder...

either way, im guessing both are gonna need to be replaced..

i think im rambling here.....i'll wait for someone else to chime in on this one.
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Unread 09-26-2009, 06:25 PM   #11
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Start with the hydraulics first, IMO. Check out these 2 part numbers at www.rockauto.com for pricing.

RHINO PAC Part # PS0115 $140.79

DORMAN Part # CC649002 $107.79

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Unread 09-26-2009, 06:29 PM   #12
rthompson48082
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yeah, i think your right....would be a fast quick easy thing to tackle...does any local auto parts stores carry these ? like murrays,auto zone,pep boys etc ? whats the difference in parts there max, why is 1 140.00 and the other 100.00 ?

-rich
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Unread 09-26-2009, 06:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject View Post
I'm thinking my description above kinda sucks, so here's a pic of the master cylinder cover and the boot that is supposed to be inside the cover.

you're brave. that break fluid will take that paint to bare metal, right now.
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Unread 09-26-2009, 06:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
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you're brave. that break fluid will take that paint to bare metal, right now.
You beat me to it. If you want to remove paint, use brake fluid on it.
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Unread 09-26-2009, 07:19 PM   #15
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If the fluid is old, and black not gold like brake fluid should be, it may be boiled and there are bubbles in the fluid. Bleed it first, always start with the simple solution and work from there.
It doesn't take a lot of fluid to completely change out. Use a larger bottle of dot 3 and bleed until all new fluid comes out. Your transmission and clutch will thank you for it.
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