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Unread 03-04-2012, 11:19 AM   #76
dapeats
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Where does the o-ring go that comes with the new MC?

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Unread 03-04-2012, 11:42 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by dapeats View Post
Where does the o-ring go that comes with the new MC?
On the attachment for the hose. Look at all the photos in Max's post number 5 on the first page of this thread.
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yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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Unread 03-04-2012, 12:00 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
On the attachment for the hose. Look at all the photos in Max's post number 5 on the first page of this thread.
Thanks, I found it. It was so worn down it looked like a peice of metal so i wasn't too sure.


No my only issue is the bleeder valve (internal slave)... I know I have to hold one end of it and unscrew the small nut farthest from the bell housing. My only issue is that I'm not sure which nut to hold because there are two and I don't want to snap the small nut.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 12:44 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapeats View Post
Thanks, I found it. It was so worn down it looked like a peice of metal so i wasn't too sure.


No my only issue is the bleeder valve (internal slave)... I know I have to hold one end of it and unscrew the small nut farthest from the bell housing. My only issue is that I'm not sure which nut to hold because there are two and I don't want to snap the small nut.
I figured it out, it's the one in the middle (largest one)
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Unread 03-04-2012, 12:47 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by dapeats View Post
I figured it out, it's the one in the middle (largest one)


Yeah, hold the one in the middle, the little one on the end is the one to unscrew and it will bleed thru that. Good luck, those are always real stuck.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 01:19 PM   #81
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I got it out and bled it. So....I have pressure in the clutch, not as much as before but good pressure. My clutch now only seems to engage about a quarter of the way in when I push the pedal. Before it was almost all the way down. It drives 100 times better right now and doesn't grind in 3rd anymore.

So do you think its good to go or do i still need to bleed it some more since it's only a 1/4 engagement. We when bled we pumped 5-10 times, kept the pedal in and I loosened the bleed valve. Only twice did air pop out, every other time it was a good stream.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 02:42 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapeats View Post
I got it out and bled it. So....I have pressure in the clutch, not as much as before but good pressure. My clutch now only seems to engage about a quarter of the way in when I push the pedal. Before it was almost all the way down. It drives 100 times better right now and doesn't grind in 3rd anymore.

So do you think its good to go or do i still need to bleed it some more since it's only a 1/4 engagement. We when bled we pumped 5-10 times, kept the pedal in and I loosened the bleed valve. Only twice did air pop out, every other time it was a good stream.

Not sure how much of an effect it would have, but you only need to pump the pedal one time when bleeding.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 06:16 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dapeats View Post
I got it out and bled it. So....I have pressure in the clutch, not as much as before but good pressure. My clutch now only seems to engage about a quarter of the way in when I push the pedal. Before it was almost all the way down. It drives 100 times better right now and doesn't grind in 3rd anymore.

So do you think its good to go or do i still need to bleed it some more since it's only a 1/4 engagement. We when bled we pumped 5-10 times, kept the pedal in and I loosened the bleed valve. Only twice did air pop out, every other time it was a good stream.
It's okay to pump a few times, not real fast pumps, but slow purposeful pumps and 5-10 is fine. Crack the valve and let it ooze out while your buddy holds the clutch pedal down, tighten the valve and then start the pump process again. I like to put a clear plastic tube on the bleed nipple and dip it down into a jar that has some brake fluid in it so I can see if it bubbles or not.

At this point, I'd drive it for a bit, then try another bleeding session.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 06:28 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
It's okay to pump a few times, not real fast pumps, but slow purposeful pumps and 5-10 is fine. Crack the valve and let it ooze out while your buddy holds the clutch pedal down, tighten the valve and then start the pump process again. I like to put a clear plastic tube on the bleed nipple and dip it down into a jar that has some brake fluid in it so I can see if it bubbles or not.

At this point, I'd drive it for a bit, then try another bleeding session.
My mistake then. Can't remember who it was, but somebody on the forum told me to just use one pump for bleeding a clutch. Obviously incorrect. Thank Opihi.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 08:19 AM   #85
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Hi everyone! Read this post because I am having a problem with a Jeep Wrangler, 1990, that was brought in to my shop. The man replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder, and snapped the bleeder off. So now the Jeep only has the middle nut and the nut closest to the bell housing. I have attempted to bleed it without the bleeder and still has absolutely no peddle. Could you Jeep enthusiast throw some advice my way? I thought it would be straight forward like doing brakes (pump, bleed, pump, bleed, etc...).

If the bleeder nut is broken off doesn't that mean you have to replace it otherwise you cannot properly bleed it?

Thank you,
REDS Auto
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Unread 04-24-2012, 09:59 PM   #86
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Thanks for this write-up! My YJ's clutch feels normal again. . .I would like a little more pressure in the system (I guess I'm just used to my Ranger's clutch now), but the engagement range is back to normal!
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Unread 05-18-2012, 09:32 AM   #87
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Ok, have a weird one to me. The clutch was working just fine, in traffic and one push it was working and the next it would go almost all the way down and just feel solid. I pulled the slave cylinder and there is no indication of oil or where it was leaking. I checked fluid level, it was low, but not empty. the only weird thing is when I put it back in the bell housing, there is no resistance before the nuts are tightened in other words it does not feel like it is contacting the clutch lever. how far in should the clutch lever be inside the housing? Could it be that the clutch lever is bent inside the housing? 95K on the Jeep Sahara 4.0. Looks like I need to pull the trans to see.
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Unread 05-18-2012, 10:06 AM   #88
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Originally Posted by techonehundred View Post
Ok, have a weird one to me. The clutch was working just fine, in traffic and one push it was working and the next it would go almost all the way down and just feel solid. I pulled the slave cylinder and there is no indication of oil or where it was leaking. I checked fluid level, it was low, but not empty. the only weird thing is when I put it back in the bell housing, there is no resistance before the nuts are tightened in other words it does not feel like it is contacting the clutch lever. how far in should the clutch lever be inside the housing? Could it be that the clutch lever is bent inside the housing? 95K on the Jeep Sahara 4.0. Looks like I need to pull the trans to see.
Welcome to the forum, and fill out your profile. You likely didn't bend your fork. You can always look inside your bell thru the ext slave mount hole. Flashlight/mirror etc, but do you still have the piston rod coming out the end of your slave? You should be able to "feel" the rod contact the cup area of the fork. Don't forget to consider your clutch master as well. I'd replace the hydraulic unit. If you're going to pull the trans, should consider doing a new clutch as well. But I don't think the problem you describe necessitates pulling the trans.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 05-18-2012, 12:57 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techonehundred
Ok, have a weird one to me. The clutch was working just fine, in traffic and one push it was working and the next it would go almost all the way down and just feel solid. I pulled the slave cylinder and there is no indication of oil or where it was leaking. I checked fluid level, it was low, but not empty. the only weird thing is when I put it back in the bell housing, there is no resistance before the nuts are tightened in other words it does not feel like it is contacting the clutch lever. how far in should the clutch lever be inside the housing? Could it be that the clutch lever is bent inside the housing? 95K on the Jeep Sahara 4.0. Looks like I need to pull the trans to see.
This sounds like a broken master cylinder spring to me. Because of your externally mounted slave cylinder, I would replace the entire master/hose/slave assembly with a pre-bled unit.

Max
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Unread 05-18-2012, 06:55 PM   #90
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Awhile back, I had a sinking clutch pedal. I'd press the pedal down and you could just feel it squish to the floor (similar to the brakes on the '82 monte carlo I used to have which required a cylinder change as well). It wasn't something I felt very comfortable letting go too long, in fear of one day not being able to get my clutch disengaged, so I did a master & slave replacement. A buddy (soon-to-be bother-in-law) and I got them swapped out, filled, and bled in under 1.5 hours. Quick, easy, and somewhat fun little repair.
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