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Unread 06-20-2010, 12:47 PM   #46
jsta6
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OK, I got the snap-ring in correctly this time. I couldn't see the three groves that it needed to fit in to, so it kept coming out.

Now I am getting an intermittent hard clutch pedal. Meaning, the clutch pedal won't go in or I have to "double pump" (I have sometimes heard it called). Wife said she was getting this before, but it is happening more often now. I am ASSuming this is what caused the snap-ring to come out in the first place - Wife had hard clutch pedal and she jammed on it really hard on an angle and the snap-ring popped out.

So, now, do I need to replace the MC / slave cylinder system or is there a fix I don't know about? (fluid level is fine).

TIA!

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Unread 06-20-2010, 03:48 PM   #47
Mean Max
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Shawn, try reading this thread!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...h-help-853773/

In my opinion that is what you have going on.

Max
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Unread 06-20-2010, 04:56 PM   #48
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Shawn, try reading this thread!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...h-help-853773/

In my opinion that is what you have going on.

Max
Thank you sir.

Going outside now to feel / listen for click...

Is this the correct part:

DORMAN Part # CC649002 {#52104113}

$102 at rockauto...
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93 YJ - wifes daily driver
97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
87GN daily driver...my only car, driven EVERY DAY!
1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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Unread 06-20-2010, 05:00 PM   #49
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsta6 View Post
Thank you sir.

Going outside now to feel / listen for click...

Is this the correct part:

DORMAN Part # CC649002 {#52104113}

$102 at rockauto...
That part is for the master/line/external slave combo. Do you have an internal, or external slave? Also what is the year, engine, etc. of the YJ in question?

Max
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Unread 06-20-2010, 05:01 PM   #50
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Shawn, try reading this thread!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...h-help-853773/

In my opinion that is what you have going on.

Max
oooooh...crunchy...yep, that must be it. Must be the broken spring. Wasn't sure at first, but I had #1 son press the clutch pedal a bunch of times and sure enough it feels like someone put a bunch of broken glass in there...

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97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
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1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
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Unread 06-20-2010, 05:09 PM   #51
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
That part is for the master/line/external slave combo. Do you have an internal, or external slave? Also what is the year, engine, etc. of the YJ in question?

Max
1993. 4.0L. May 1993 on the door sill plate.

Has the "roll-pin" style MC line.

External slave.
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93 YJ - wifes daily driver
97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
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Unread 06-20-2010, 05:18 PM   #52
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsta6 View Post
1993. 4.0L. May 1993 on the door sill plate.

Has the "roll-pin" style MC line.

External slave.
Shawn, the external slave was not introduced until '94, but many '93 & previous models have been retrofitted. If you're sure that it's an external slave, that part number you listed from RockAuto Auto Parts should be correct!

Max
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Unread 06-20-2010, 08:51 PM   #53
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Shawn, the external slave was not introduced until '94, but many '93 & previous models have been retrofitted. If you're sure that it's an external slave, that part number you listed from RockAuto Auto Parts should be correct!

Max
ooooooo k.

I see now. I ASSumed it was an external slave because I thought that if I had a roll-pin style MC, that I had the newer style system. (thought I read that somewhere) I see now that just because I have the roll-pin style MC, it doesn't mean I have an external slave. My slave is in fact "internal".



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So, I just need to replace the MC. And to get the line off of the MC, I need to drain the fluid, put the MC on its side, and knock the roll pin out as mentioned before, correct?
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Shawn
93 YJ - wifes daily driver
97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
87GN daily driver...my only car, driven EVERY DAY!
1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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Unread 06-20-2010, 08:56 PM   #54
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsta6 View Post
So, I just need to replace the MC. And to get the line off of the MC, I need to drain the fluid, put the MC on its side, and knock the roll pin out as mentioned before, correct?
I knock the pin out while the master is still installed, then disconnect the rod at the pedal, and then remove the two bolts that attach the master cylinder last. Reverse the procedure for installation.

Bleed the system at the bleeder valve located here.



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Unread 06-20-2010, 09:17 PM   #55
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
I knock the pin out while the master is still installed, then disconnect the rod at the pedal, and then remove the two bolts that attach the master cylinder last. Reverse the procedure for installation.

Bleed the system at the bleeder valve located here.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Max
Hmmm...I thought that if I tried to knock the rod out with the MC still installed, I might break the body (the long plastic part of the MC that is between the reservoir and mounting plate). But come to think of it, who cares if it breaks???...it's broken anyway...

Thanks.

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Shawn
93 YJ - wifes daily driver
97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
87GN daily driver...my only car, driven EVERY DAY!
1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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Unread 06-20-2010, 09:21 PM   #56
Mean Max
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The pin usually isn't that difficult to remove. A small blunt pin punch will get it right out.

Max
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Unread 06-21-2010, 05:37 AM   #57
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
The pin usually isn't that difficult to remove. A small blunt pin punch will get it right out.

Max
Got it, thanks!
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Shawn
93 YJ - wifes daily driver
97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
87GN daily driver...my only car, driven EVERY DAY!
1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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Unread 07-06-2010, 01:20 PM   #58
jsta6
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Sorry for not posting sooner.

Yes, that was the problem, the spring was broken in side the MC. New swap was super easy.

Thanks!
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Shawn
93 YJ - wifes daily driver
97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
87GN daily driver...my only car, driven EVERY DAY!
1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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Unread 08-25-2010, 10:50 PM   #59
AmnWatkins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Okay, I need to correct myself.

Loosen the set screw, not the line, at the slave.

I'm at work and I was rushing to try to answer. My apologies!

Max
Where exactly is said set screw on the external slave? I have a '94 where the rod is broken loose at the firewall and brake fluid running down my floor board like in your example, it's time to replace it.

Thanks for any help, it is very appreciated.

Also, Max, I'm in awe of your vast knowledge on this and every other thing Jeep.
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Unread 08-26-2010, 12:55 AM   #60
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Where exactly is said set screw on the external slave?

Also, Max, I'm in awe of your vast knowledge on this and every other thing Jeep.
Set screw--bleeder screw in the bleeder tower on top of the external slave. Tower shown here:



Set screw removed here:



And yes, Max rocks.

And here it is in the tower:

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