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Unread 06-05-2010, 08:02 PM   #31
Mean Max
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Originally Posted by girliejeepers View Post
external '98
Some of those external slaves (most actually) do not have a bleeder valve. What method are you using to bleed the system?

Max

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Unread 06-05-2010, 08:36 PM   #32
girliejeepers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
Some of those external slaves (most actually) do not have a bleeder valve. What method are you using to bleed the system?

Max
I pump it about 10 times and my husband is bleeding it, on the master I guess.


Nope, he says the bleeder is on the slave. There is a set screw on the slave. Is there another way to bleed it?

Last edited by girliejeepers; 06-05-2010 at 08:51 PM..
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Unread 06-05-2010, 08:54 PM   #33
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by girliejeepers View Post
I pump it about 10 times and my husband is bleeding it, on the master I guess.
Okay just to avoid any confusion, the "master" is the part under the hood, on the firewall. The "slave" is the part down on the transmission.

Bleeding the system must take place at the slave, down underneath the Jeep on the side of the transmission. As I said, a LOT of the external slave cylinders do not actually have bleeder valves.

Try this, fill the reservoir with fluid & then use a wrench to slightly loosen the line (about 1/4 turn) on the slave (down on the transmission) and let it drip. this is called "gravity bleeding" and requires NO PEDAL PUMPING! The weight of the fluid pushes the air out of the line as it seeps out. Make sure the reservoir stays full & doesn't run dry.

After allowing it to drip for a while (10 minutes or so) tighten the line & then just pump the pedal a few times, the pedal should be much better. Once you have it in good enough shape to drive, it should improve over the next few days.

Max
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Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 08:56 PM   #34
Mean Max
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Okay, I need to correct myself.

Loosen the set screw, not the line, at the slave.

I'm at work and I was rushing to try to answer. My apologies!

Max
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Quote:
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 09:03 PM   #35
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OK, we will try that.

He also removed the line at the master and no fluid (or air) comes out, even when pumping.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 09:08 PM   #36
Mean Max
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Quote:
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OK, we will try that.

He also removed the line at the master and no fluid (or air) comes out, even when pumping.
Not unusual, but don't do that........

Max
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Quote:
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Quote:
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 09:12 PM   #37
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Not unusual, but don't do that........

Max
Should the master cap be on or off?
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Unread 06-05-2010, 09:20 PM   #38
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Should the master cap be on or off?
I usually leave it off, but it's not critical to the operation.

Max
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Quote:
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Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 06-05-2010, 10:14 PM   #39
girliejeepers
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I usually leave it off, but it's not critical to the operation.

Max
We tried it both ways, still nothing? Is it possible that the set screw is not a bleed?
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Unread 06-05-2010, 10:26 PM   #40
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by girliejeepers View Post
We tried it both ways, still nothing? Is it possible that the set screw is not a bleed?
If fluid comes out of it, then it should work.

Have you tried just pumping the pedal without doing anything else?

Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 06-06-2010, 07:31 AM   #41
girliejeepers
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If fluid comes out of it, then it should work.

Have you tried just pumping the pedal without doing anything else?

Max
No fluid comes out? Yes, we tried pumping for 20 min. with/out doing anything else. Possible that one of the new cylinders it bad?
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Unread 06-06-2010, 02:01 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by girliejeepers View Post
No fluid comes out? Yes, we tried pumping for 20 min. with/out doing anything else. Possible that one of the new cylinders it bad?
We go it. Had to look up how to pre-bleed (bleed by filling the cylinder and pressing the plunger by hand to get the air out). Its running now, thanks for the help.
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Unread 06-20-2010, 09:08 AM   #43
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Great thread.

My wife has a 93 YJ with the "roll pin" style MC.

We were leaving cub scout day camp last week when the pushrod came out of the MC. It looks like maybe the snap-ring is tired and needs to be replaced. Is is possible to replace just the snap-ring? (I can drive it now, (careful to not let the pushrod pop out to fast), but I wouldn't let me wife drive and it and get stuck somewhere with four boys!)

Some info, (if it helps anyone), and a question:

Three parts sites all had the MC for a 93 YJ as being the old style (non-roll pin).
Advance Auto (Discount Auto)
Autozone
Summit

I even checked 92 through 95 or 96 (I forget which) and they all had the non-roll pin style MC only. No other kinds.

Three other parts places all had the correct style MC, but you had to know what you are looking for.
rockauto
4wheelparts
4wheedrive (same site?)

These three sites, and the "Haynes" manual all say the "system" has to be ordered as a "set". MC, line and slave. Is this correct? Do I have to get the whole system? It would be great if I only had to spend $50 on just the MC instead of $150 for the entire system.

FWIW, (nothing), the Haynes manual says the non-roll pin style is 87-93, and the roll-pin style is 94 and up.

Sorry for the long post!
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97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
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1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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Unread 06-20-2010, 09:28 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsta6 View Post
Great thread.

My wife has a 93 YJ with the "roll pin" style MC.

We were leaving cub scout day camp last week when the pushrod came out of the MC. It looks like maybe the snap-ring is tired and needs to be replaced. Is is possible to replace just the snap-ring? (I can drive it now, (careful to not let the pushrod pop out to fast), but I wouldn't let me wife drive and it and get stuck somewhere with four boys!)

Some info, (if it helps anyone), and a question:

Three parts sites all had the MC for a 93 YJ as being the old style (non-roll pin).
Advance Auto (Discount Auto)
Autozone
Summit

I even checked 92 through 95 or 96 (I forget which) and they all had the non-roll pin style MC only. No other kinds.

Three other parts places all had the correct style MC, but you had to know what you are looking for.
rockauto
4wheelparts
4wheedrive (same site?)

These three sites, and the "Haynes" manual all say the "system" has to be ordered as a "set". MC, line and slave. Is this correct? Do I have to get the whole system? It would be great if I only had to spend $50 on just the MC instead of $150 for the entire system.

FWIW, (nothing), the Haynes manual says the non-roll pin style is 87-93, and the roll-pin style is 94 and up.

Sorry for the long post!
There are others more experienced than me who can talk about the roll pin, but as far as a set, go with the complete set to replace. It's sooo much easier and it's just plain a good idea. If the master begins to wear it can add undo stress on the slave and vice-versa. It's just a very good idea to replace the entire assembly.
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Unread 06-20-2010, 09:45 AM   #45
jsta6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhouse View Post
There are others more experienced than me who can talk about the roll pin, but as far as a set, go with the complete set to replace. It's sooo much easier and it's just plain a good idea. If the master begins to wear it can add undo stress on the slave and vice-versa. It's just a very good idea to replace the entire assembly.
Thanks, I did just read how they should be replaced as a set.

However, there really is nothing wrong with the MC that I am aware of; just the stooopid clip-ring won't stay in. Any tips for that?

BTW, I found P/N 52104113 in another thread. Is that the correct p/n? I found a Dorman one at rockauto for $102.99!

DORMAN Part # CC649002 {#52104113}
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97 Chevy conversion van - wifes taxi for the kids...
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1985 Olds 442 - POS basketcase rustbucket - lowrider...
"There's good in everybody. Boost. Don't knock." Author:Warren G. Harding
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