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#1 | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 153
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clutch master cylinder assembly install going haywire
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: central pa
Posts: 220
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You need to bleed the lines, I read your post and didn't see anything about it. A buddy has one of these bleeders http://www.trackhaus.com/motive-power-bleeders-c-65.html works great for the clutch but I just use my compressor, 2x4 and a old innertube to do my brakes (long story)
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 19
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Wait, what fell apart? The master cylinder is sealed, it can't just fall apart. When you say lower assembly, are you talking about the connection at the tranny. There isn't any reason to be near the tranny. There is a connection on top of the master cylinder.
Have you tried bleeding the system, you may have some air in the system causing the pedal to go directly to the floor. The bleeder valve is down by the tranny, drivers side or passenger side, depending on tranny. Good luck. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Odenton, Md
Posts: 472
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hes got a 94
the lower thing he speaks of is the slave cylinder i beleive that on the sealed ones, there is no bleeder though someone else should chime in You may need to take it back unless you can get it to gravity bleed.
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Steering gearbox adjustment write up |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deming,New Mexico
Posts: 2,176
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Yeah it sounds like somthing is wrong.
If the slave blew it's innereds out than it's junk. If it was seated on the fork than it had to be defective. You won't have any luck bleeding because you can't just stuff everything back in and fix it. This is just speculation but since you put the master (Top Part) on first you may have accidently pushed the clutch pedal after that. Was that white plastic thing broken on the bottom part (Slave Cylinder)?
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All other things being equal, the simplest solution is the best. Ich liebe meinen Jeep! |
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#6 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 153
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Quote:
![]() I had a good, though misguided reason: the slave assembly I was removing had the same plastic strips on the piston cap removed. I figured that the removal of the white plastic strips allowed the piston to extend fully and that this was a part of the installation process. I think this poorly-informed decision has forced me to buy another clutch assembly. |
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#7 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deming,New Mexico
Posts: 2,176
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You're supposed to leave the plastic thing on while you install it and the first time you use the clutch it breaks.
That's how it's supposed to be. When you get another one leave this on and install the Slave (Bottom part) first. Quote:
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All other things being equal, the simplest solution is the best. Ich liebe meinen Jeep! |
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Odenton, Md
Posts: 472
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How much is the slave/master cylinder that you got?
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Steering gearbox adjustment write up |
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#9 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Moyock, NC
Posts: 57
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Take it back and get a new one. Once you blow that slave apart it will continue to leak and never work right. Tell them it was afu from the box.
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Lee 87 YJ, 4.5 RE lift with monotube RE shocks, 33 LTB's, 258 w/4.0 head, HEI, and Weber carb, Header, Comp 252H cam, Dynomax, cat back and much more....... |
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 153
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This go around, I'll take the hit on it (maybe it'll save me money down the road: I'll do my "homework" before making a poorly-informed, $/time-costly move like I did this time).
So I install the next one, right? What's the step-by-step procedure so this doesn't happen again? Maybe something like this: 1. Remove pedal pin, then Loosen remove old assembly - master and slave. 2. Bolt in new master assembly, work hydraulic line in to place, bolt in new slave assembly to transmission. (this slave assembly having a white plastic strip on the piston cap that is in one piece) 3. Reattach pin to pedal. 4. Pump pedal until pressure builds in the line and white plastic strip "snaps" in the slave assembly. 5. Install complete. (?) Does this sound about right? Thanks to guys here for the advice on this ![]() |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Deming,New Mexico
Posts: 2,176
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That sounds right, After the first normal push on the pedal you should be good to go.
Let us know how you made out. Quote:
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All other things being equal, the simplest solution is the best. Ich liebe meinen Jeep! |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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pat8942 is right - pumping the clutch pedal isn't part of the process. First time the pedal is depressed the shipping retainer on the slave cylinder will release and your good to go.
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 153
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I managed to get these second assembly I ordered installed a few days ago.
A buddy of mine sent me the pdf install step-by-step from a service manual. It needs a line in there to the effect of: "Whatever you do, don't harm the plastic strips on the slave piston cap prior to installation ...It doesn't matter if it looks like somebody cut the ones on the piston cap from the old slave cylinder you are removing." ![]() Much thanks for the advice given here on this! |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: las vegas
Posts: 57
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Springfield
Posts: 1
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I broke the plastic strip and then installed the cylinder and it did the same thing. I fixed the situation by pulling the slave out and had my wife make sure the resevoir stayed full while I rammed the piston in and out. This effectively bench bled the slave while it was still under the jeep. No problems to the date.
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