Cleaning Weber 32/36 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > Cleaning Weber 32/36

RCV Heavy Duty Axle Shafts Now Shipping at Baseline4x4.comStainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge Bushings

Reply
Unread 05-28-2010, 03:00 PM   #1
Tompatt
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Macon / Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 2,792
Cleaning Weber 32/36

Im a noob when it comes to webers. I was wondering since im getting worse gas millage than i did before i wanna change all filters and clean the carb. Could anyone tell me what i need to do to make my weber run like new again?

__________________
Thomas
-1987 YJ
Jeep Build
Tompatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-28-2010, 03:03 PM   #2
ImpactFabWorks
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: victorville,ca
Posts: 1,864
IMO if your going to pull a carb to clean it, you should just spend the $15 for the rebuild kit. but before I did that I would try to tune it first.
__________________
1990 YJ = The Toy/ My Daily Driver
1996 XJ= Wifes Daily Driver


www.Impact-FabWorks.com

Impact-FabWorks Facebook


Please fill out your profile, It helps us help you!!!
ImpactFabWorks is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-28-2010, 03:10 PM   #3
Tompatt
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Macon / Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 2,792
Quote:
Originally Posted by brian_nichols View Post
IMO if your going to pull a carb to clean it, you should just spend the $15 for the rebuild kit. but before I did that I would try to tune it first.
yea im was gonna get a rebuild... i just wanna clean it all out. it hasnt been cleaned out in 3 years.
__________________
Thomas
-1987 YJ
Jeep Build
Tompatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-28-2010, 03:12 PM   #4
ImpactFabWorks
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: victorville,ca
Posts: 1,864
well rebuilding it is a pretty easy job. it's all about remembering how it came apart so you can put it back together. I suggest investing in some chem dip to clean it.
__________________
1990 YJ = The Toy/ My Daily Driver
1996 XJ= Wifes Daily Driver


www.Impact-FabWorks.com

Impact-FabWorks Facebook


Please fill out your profile, It helps us help you!!!
ImpactFabWorks is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-29-2010, 02:56 PM   #5
Tompatt
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Macon / Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 2,792
i dont mean like super shinny. i mean arent the idle jets or something in the carb that i could change out? i want to replace the little things that i could and make it run better possibly. anyone?
__________________
Thomas
-1987 YJ
Jeep Build
Tompatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-31-2010, 01:38 PM   #6
mcmud
Web Wheeler
1983 CJ8 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: N.E. Alabama
Posts: 2,650
Maybe this will help

The filter change will often cause bits of debris to become dislodged causing issues,..most especially so while reusing an existing hose. New hose is suggested as well as the oem dual outlet fuel filter with the return line functioning.

This exploded view should help w/locations and identification.
The idle jets are #30 with ez outside access to them. The mains #16 and the air correctors #80 are under the cover and can be determined when you choose to go in there.

Notice that you have a strainer mounted inside the cover but ez acess there between the fuel horn. Be certain to wash it with warm soapy water, inspect it's condition and set it aside to dry... it will be the last thing set during this process.

Are you using a FPR?

Note the location of the idle jets. Give them a close look as well as inside that threaded hole,...way back into the body at the orifice. If you see any obstruction you might try to pick it out with a greased point, a toothpick is OK we are not so much prying here most often because removing the jet has loosened any debris if you find that you have pushed something further into that orifice it is best to plan a need to remove the cover.

While the jets are in hand look closely and note their sizes. Pull the jets from the holders and give both the holder and all holes in the jet a through cleaning. Press the jet back into the holder and tighten it into place.

If or when you remove the cover you will be able to record the main and air corrector jets size. The primary side is the bore with the accelerator linkage attached.
If the carb was set up for the 4.2 you should expect to see at a minimum 75/60 idles, 145/145 mains with 170/160 air correctors.

With the tune guideline you will see that with the warmed engine to allow the choke plate to be fully open which should allow the fast idle lever to clear the fast idle speed screw as well as allow the idle speed screw to make contact with the stop lever.

Tools needed thus far include eye protection, screwdrivers which fit the purpose, clean sharp knife, a pick, I think it's a 3/4" wrench to remove the strainer holder, a mirror will sure help and if you decide to go ahead and check inside add in spray carb cleaner and at least a ruler so to check/set the floats.

In order to tune the Weber I suggest you borrow/buy a vacuum gauge.

While the guide line notes that the speed screw should be set to a maximum of 1-1/2 turns in once contact is made with the stop you want to find the point that zero vacuum exist at the "S" ported nipple while at curb idle speed approx. to 650 rpm...should the idle jet size be sufficient, the engine and it's ignition system be in good usable condition and there are no air leaks it will. That point will assure that the throttle plate is closed allowing the idle circuit to function as designed so that you have the full range of the progression circuit.

You should expect that the mix screw setting fall into the variance shown on the tune guideline to be 1-3/4 to 2-1/4 turns out from seated

These settings or either the setting you/we realize to be the better using the lean/best idle setting adjustments will better determine the size of jets needed for it to perform as designed. There is more to that reasoning than the curb idle quality,.. you want performance well that Weber will give it's all when it is set up and tuned properly and we want to see that happen.

Looking forward to reading the result of the idle jet inspection.
dg-series-001.jpg   dg-series-003.jpg  
mcmud is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-31-2010, 02:49 PM   #7
Tompatt
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Macon / Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 2,792
i was gonna try and take off the carb and inspect it and clean it then put it back on or would it be better to just leave it on and do everything?
__________________
Thomas
-1987 YJ
Jeep Build
Tompatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-31-2010, 03:30 PM   #8
mcmud
Web Wheeler
1983 CJ8 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: N.E. Alabama
Posts: 2,650
Without knowing any symptoms you are experiencing other than poor fuel economy I've suggested what I think you should do first. Most likely your carb has not been adjusted properly. That may be due to debris maybe not.

A look inside the idle orifices primary and secondary and into those jets would determine what you have.

Those jets are the ones the average driver uses for 80% of the ride. You should expect to rely on them at least through 1800 rpm. A bit of tuning will broaden that range to 2300 rpm, cruising speed to most of us. It's all in what the screw settings tell you. They would in a manner of ways tell you if there is a blockage in that what is referred to as the low speed circuit. That is where the tuner must begin, primary bore first.

If this jeep is a weekend runner and have time you may want to pull it, or if you suspect air leaks you will find it necessary.

For the sake of cleaning it, no not at this time.

A vacuum gauge is almost a must have,... a tach is added assurance that all things are well.

If no gauge is available just now and you want to begin read that document and you can connect one end of a tube to the "S" nipple and place the other onto your tongue. If you feel vacuum at curb idle speed the throttle plate is open.

Can't tune it if the throttle plate is open.

If you ever read where someones Weber stinks without mention of smoke, that is where that problem originates.

Weber says that 1-1/2 turn in is the maximum because they know that the plate is open beyond that setting.

If you want a real work horse that will bring on a grin tune it so that your setting is less than that, say for example 1-1/4 would be fantastic for get up and go. Oh and the best fuel economy too.

The screw settings will tell all.

Study that guideline, each line of it. Check the idle jets. Change filters and see what gains you make with it set up as designed.

When you do plan to open it post back up and we will discuss the high speed circuit set up as well as the all important float settings.
mcmud is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2010, 07:29 PM   #9
Tompatt
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Macon / Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 2,792
lets see. so i have done the Nutter Bypass and reguided the lines to these specifications..



also i have a FPR set to 3.5 i think? its not a Holley just normal one you get from advanced.

would these affect anything with the carb?
__________________
Thomas
-1987 YJ
Jeep Build
Tompatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2010, 08:48 PM   #10
doherty80
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: north jersey
Posts: 381
im just wonndering what kind of maintence did you do for your weber. i clean my carb and airfilter and pcv system with carb cleaner once to twice a month will this keep my 32 36 dgev running longer or should i expect a rebuild in 2 years
__________________
1990 Jeep Wrangler Laredo 4.2L L6 5spd Weber 32/36 3inbl, 32" MT, hella500 light bar selling cj yj plow pm for details
|_______
/l ,[_____],
l---L -[]lllllll[]-

()_) ()_)--o-)_)
doherty80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2010, 09:51 PM   #11
Tompatt
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Macon / Carrollton, Georgia
Posts: 2,792
i havent touched it since i got my jeep. thats why im asking now. haha.
__________________
Thomas
-1987 YJ
Jeep Build
Tompatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2010, 10:25 PM   #12
monkeyhouse
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cumberland, Maryland, Maryland
Posts: 3,151
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmud View Post
Without knowing any symptoms you are experiencing other than poor fuel economy I've suggested what I think you should do first. Most likely your carb has not been adjusted properly. That may be due to debris maybe not.

A look inside the idle orifices primary and secondary and into those jets would determine what you have.

Those jets are the ones the average driver uses for 80% of the ride. You should expect to rely on them at least through 1800 rpm. A bit of tuning will broaden that range to 2300 rpm, cruising speed to most of us. It's all in what the screw settings tell you. They would in a manner of ways tell you if there is a blockage in that what is referred to as the low speed circuit. That is where the tuner must begin, primary bore first.

If this jeep is a weekend runner and have time you may want to pull it, or if you suspect air leaks you will find it necessary.

For the sake of cleaning it, no not at this time.

A vacuum gauge is almost a must have,... a tach is added assurance that all things are well.

If no gauge is available just now and you want to begin read that document and you can connect one end of a tube to the "S" nipple and place the other onto your tongue. If you feel vacuum at curb idle speed the throttle plate is open.

Can't tune it if the throttle plate is open.

If you ever read where someones Weber stinks without mention of smoke, that is where that problem originates.

Weber says that 1-1/2 turn in is the maximum because they know that the plate is open beyond that setting.

If you want a real work horse that will bring on a grin tune it so that your setting is less than that, say for example 1-1/4 would be fantastic for get up and go. Oh and the best fuel economy too.

The screw settings will tell all.

Study that guideline, each line of it. Check the idle jets. Change filters and see what gains you make with it set up as designed.

When you do plan to open it post back up and we will discuss the high speed circuit set up as well as the all important float settings.
That my friend is a ton of awesome information! I just wanted to add a link to two docs that anybody who has a weber will appreciate:

Weber Carburetors Carbs 40 DCOE 45 DCOE 32/36 32/34 Jeep. Top-End Performance 818 764-1901
__________________
First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, 6 cylinder 4.2L , 258. Nuttered and TeamRushed, Weber 38 DGES, Now, I'm venturing into the world of Grand Cherokees
monkeyhouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2010, 10:30 PM   #13
monkeyhouse
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cumberland, Maryland, Maryland
Posts: 3,151
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tompatt View Post
lets see. so i have done the Nutter Bypass and reguided the lines to these specifications..



also i have a FPR set to 3.5 i think? its not a Holley just normal one you get from advanced.

would these affect anything with the carb?
Hey Mcmud, is that diagram ok? It's been a while since I looked at mine, but I thought I had my advance at the distributor not t'ed off, but I could be wrong.

As for the FPR keep a close eye on it. What brand did you get? I heard some pretty scarey stories about the mr. gasket ones. Watch for leaks and exploding fpr's.
__________________
First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, 6 cylinder 4.2L , 258. Nuttered and TeamRushed, Weber 38 DGES, Now, I'm venturing into the world of Grand Cherokees
monkeyhouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2010, 10:33 PM   #14
monkeyhouse
Registered User
1997 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Cumberland, Maryland, Maryland
Posts: 3,151
Quote:
Originally Posted by doherty80 View Post
im just wonndering what kind of maintence did you do for your weber. i clean my carb and airfilter and pcv system with carb cleaner once to twice a month will this keep my 32 36 dgev running longer or should i expect a rebuild in 2 years
It's always a good idea to make sure your weber is tuned. That is the biggest maint. I've seen people do. As cheap as a rebuild kit is though, it's never a bad idea and those carbs are pretty easy to disassemble and assemble.
__________________
First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, 6 cylinder 4.2L , 258. Nuttered and TeamRushed, Weber 38 DGES, Now, I'm venturing into the world of Grand Cherokees
monkeyhouse is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-03-2010, 10:22 AM   #15
mcmud
Web Wheeler
1983 CJ8 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: N.E. Alabama
Posts: 2,650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tompatt View Post
lets see. so i have done the Nutter Bypass and reguided the lines to these specifications..

also i have a FPR set to 3.5 i think? its not a Holley just normal one you get from advanced.

would these affect anything with the carb?
Quote:
Originally Posted by doherty80 View Post
im just wonndering what kind of maintence did you do for your weber. i clean my carb and airfilter and pcv system with carb cleaner once to twice a month will this keep my 32 36 dgev running longer or should i expect a rebuild in 2 years
A kit every couple of years will have advantage in that you will be able to throughly clean away any debris and gum deposits, a perfect opportunity to check/reset the float which is most critical to a Weber's performance, you will have a new accelerator pump diaphragm and then best yet a new Viton tip needle valve assembly, a vast improvement over the original brass needle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhouse View Post
Hey Mcmud, is that diagram ok? It's been a while since I looked at mine, but I thought I had my advance at the distributor not t'ed off, but I could be wrong.
There are a few points that are or could be in error with that diagram.

One is that it does not indicate which ported nipple is used for spark advance control.

The DGV has two nipples on that end, one is the "E" ported nipple or sometimes referred to in Redline Weber documents as the "EGR" nipple and some other times as the "Additional Ported Vacuum Source". Its intended use would be for any bleeding emission control fixture, such as the EGR or any other device which benefits from a more linear signal.

The other is the "S" ported nipple with an intended use for spark timing control and any other non bleeding device signal that you may desire, charcoal canister valve, TAC system, etc. It will be seen in this diagram as the nipple farthest away from the mix screw. While using the "S" port for vacuum timing advance if it is also suppling any other fixture that may bleed you are expected to have a signal to the advance mechanism that will have less advance as a result as well as just another air leak, often referred to as a vacuum leak.

Another point needs to be made that the CTO has a bleed cap which should be plugged, it acts the same as an air leak when used on a vehicle with the ignition nuttered.

And then note that the bowl vent/fuel tank vent are reversed with that diagram.

Attached is the diagram which I recommend you follow if you prefer using ported vacuum for your timing advance. I use manifold vacuum for that purpose.

Quote:
As for the FPR keep a close eye on it. What brand did you get? I heard some pretty scarey stories about the mr. gasket ones. Watch for leaks and exploding fpr's.
I really can't say anything concerning the different brands of FPR. Only experience I've had with one is in removing them..

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyhouse View Post
It's always a good idea to make sure your weber is tuned. That is the biggest maint. I've seen people do. As cheap as a rebuild kit is though, it's never a bad idea and those carbs are pretty easy to disassemble and assemble.
Same here. A periodic check on the screw settings while always keeping that gauze air filter clean and oiled as well as the fuel strainer in the fuel horn clear of debris is a good thing, helps with fuel economy as well as overall performance.
dgxv_parts_labled.gif   vacuumtubes.jpg  
mcmud is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.