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#1 | ||
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Registered User
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Cheaper alternative to POR-15?
The title says it all. I'm in the market for a cheaper version of POR-15. Actually, it doesn't necessarily have to be "like" POR-15, but it has to serve a purpose... and that purpose being to paint over some areas on the body that are pitted with rust. I've used a die grinder, wire wheel, wire brush, you name it - nothing is getting the rust out of these deep pits. So I figure I'll just POR-15esque the areas, then prime and paint. And anyhting left over I'll use on my floor pan when I do the interior.
I'd perfer it to be in a rattle can, but anyhting I can pick up locally would be great.
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#2 |
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for $7 you can get a can of that really nasty brown Rustoleum oil-based primer, its indestructable
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I bought a qt can of POR 15 last year at the local paint supplier for $30 something bucks. I coated all the rusty steel on the Jeep. Last week I painted it on the underside of the 32" mower deck on the kids Cub Cadet. I look for rusty stuff to paint it on and I still have 1/2 a can left. It's worth the $$ IMO. That stuff is like liquid titanium. Just buy one of those little tiny cans. Unless you Jeep is all rust... it'll cover it. You can get chassis coat. It's cheaper and you can use it over existing paint. Stop at a paint supplier and see what they got.
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89' YJ Larado 4.0L,AX15 01' Grand Cherokee 4.0L Check my Gallery for pics. My Rebuild Thread Take a minute and fill out your profile, Please |
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#4 | |
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Registered User
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No doubt the POR-15 is worth the cash. I just don't want to purchase a quart of it right now just to fix a few nasties on my body and risk contaminating/drying/ruining/losing/having my 3yo kid drink the rest of it before I get a chance to put it to good use.
The $7 rustoleum sounds like a good idea. Thanks guys.
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If you're still confused click here to see how I view the forum. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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I personally think POR-15 is crap! I've used so many of their products over the last 5 years on my Jeeps and the rust always comes through eventually. Hell the Por-15 and chassis coat didn't even last a year on my Land Rover Disco's bumpers. Save your money buy rust-oleum I've never had a problem with there product.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Rust Converter. Lots of companies make it, including Rust Oleum. I've had pretty good sucess with it.......you do need to keep a top coat over it, though.
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#7 |
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Registered User
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I used loctite rust converter in a rattle can ( blue can) from menards like $5 a can. Then top coated with rustoleum high performance enamel paint, also $5(brushed steel lookig can, alot like implement paint). It worked very well.
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01 TJ stock for now! OlllllllO |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Not sure how much it costs, but Rust Bullet is another option.
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#9 |
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Member
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I have had the same experience. I cleaned up some surface rust on my frame last winter and put on 2 coats of POR-15 per their instructions and then topcoated with 2 coats of rustoleum. The rust is already starting to come through again. I need to find something that works...
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Yellow 2000 TJ, 4.0L, NV3550, 3.73 gears. 4" RC X-series lift, 33x12.50x16 MT MTZ's on 16x10 MT Classic Bead Locks. Bumpers, winch, axles and gears coming soon. ./l ,[_\_\ ], l---L –OlllllllO- ()_) ()_)--o-)_) |
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#10 |
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Web Wheeler
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Try Eastwood's rust encapsulator. This stuff is tough. Does need some time to dry like a day or two in the hot sun.
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#11 |
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Registered User
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One of these products is called Right Stuff. It's a blue-green liquid you brush on the affected piece, let it dry and turn the rust a silver/black color, creating a somewhat sticky film. I primer then paint over it and go. I've used it on other vehicles as well as several areas on my jeep. Been happy with the results. Have never used POR15 so can't compare.
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Potato Wave |
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#12 |
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XJ on 37's
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: missouri via blackpool,lancs.
Posts: 10,166
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X3 on the POR15 is crap bandwagon.
i stripped my frame bare, ground off all the bad stuff, repaired with new steel, etc etc etc and then used their complete system. the etcher, primer and paint. stuff worre off faster than anything, and let rust come right through. i used rustoleum on my new frame, never had a single issue with that stuff. also used rustoleum on some parts of my big truck, holds up fine, at a fraction of the cost of POR15. martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee.... 1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE 2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor. 4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ).... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/ Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely. Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely. Choose wisely! |
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#13 |
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H2 Recovery Team Member
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hmmm, mixed results here it seems. POR worked great on my frame repair on the 88. two winters of NE salted roads and it was still rock hard with no rust in evidence. i tried the rust converter from permatex (IIRC) on my old skid plate and it didn't hold up for long. on new/clean steel i like to use a combo of rustoleum auto primer and Ace brand enamel top coat. i've done a couple projects for the jeep using this combo and it seems to hold up well.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231 Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front. 92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231 5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood |
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#14 | |
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Registered User
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Thanks guys.
I'm going to pick up some Rustoleum, might as well use that brand since everything else I have is from them. ![]()
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Quote:
If you're still confused click here to see how I view the forum. |
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#15 |
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BC
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Any thoughts on rust bullet?
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