Thanks, Old4x. I don't see any other wires coming out the existing carb except for the electric choke. So I guess I don't need the stepper motor install. I also called national carburetors out of Florida and they can rebuilt the carb I have for half the price of a new one.
Funny that, the BBD use predates catalytic converters and widespread FI installations.
edit to add: all carbs wallow out the throttle body, quality rebuilds ream and install bronze bushings in this area to prolong the throttle body life.
You don't think Carter knew FI was coming into being?
They knew they were on thier way out
The 80's were the tranistion time
Yes, the BBD had been in use for years before but many all too many got replaced for throttle shafts - Webers too
Hard to find someone these days that can do those shaft bushings
Handicapped license plates are not for mentally handicapped people -
"Man has not yet evolved an inch from the primordial slime that spawned him." Mark Blankfield, Jekyll & Hyde... Together again
the emission system on the 258 is the biggest cluster---- ever thought up. it is a failed attempt at making a carb perform like a modern system. yes, it can be made to work but why bother when a few parts make such an improvement.
Do everything with a positive attitude, it won't always work but you'll piss enough people off to make it worthwhile.
the voices aren't real but they sure have good ideas.
I went with a rochester 2bbl. It took just a little bit of work and I made the spacer out of some corian counter top I had laying around. I got the carb off e-bay for an chevy 283/327 it came with electric choke. The only issue I had was that I had to change the choke mechanism since it was backwards and would put in more choke as it got hot. I think I spent a total of $50.00 on the swap (Carb, Kit and other parts). Engine is way peppy now. I did have to modify my throttle cable but it was easy.
I don't have emissions here in GA, but it doesn't blow black like it did when that POS carter was on it.
OLD4x, I don't doubt yours runs great, but I can say that mine particularly runs much better with the rochester.
my jeep was already swapped to a weber 34 when i got it. stay away from that thing. you talk of stuck floats, the 34 does that regularly. i ran the weber 32/36 on a few bmws and i never had a bit of trouble with that particular model carb and if i had still had one in the garage when i got this jeep, i would've put it on.
both the motorcraft 2100 and 2150 didn't work properly for me. could've been me though
i had a holley two barrel carb off a 68 or so dodge car that bolted right onto the weber adapter and still let my cruise control work. that was a dang good carb. i would still run that if i wasn't always screwing with stuff. it was great.
i currently run a holley 450cfm four barrel off a 60s something gt mustang. i rebuilt it, bolted it to my offenhauser intake, USED THE VACUUM GAUGE TO TUNE IT, and have had zero trouble from it since. i can do 100mph on the highway, i can accelerate while climbing very tall bridges, i can tow easily, and i can turn the jeep off without it dieseling. (note: you don't want to do 100mph in a yj, just take my word. its not for everyone)
the main thing all the guys who change their carbs need to learn is how to tell if they have hte proper jets in the carb and how to use a vacuum gauge to tune your carb and timing. old4x and zeus87gn both have lots of very very helpful info on the carbs and old4x has helped me time after time and given me great links on the vacuum gauge. all you carb'd guys need to go spend the 30 or 40 bucks at the local autoparts place and pick one up. it will be the most useful tuning tool in your toolbox with a carburetor.
here are the links he gave me a long time ago to help me out. i have saved them and pass them out to guys really interested in learning to adjust their carbs.
The Carter "COULD" be a perfectly acceptable carb IF you have all the sensors working fine, all the passages are surgically clean, good fuel is used and you keep the mud and river water away from it.
For anyone who actually wheels you need to simplify under the hood. The MC 2150 only needs fuel to run, no input from the exhaust or a temperature sensor. I actually got BETTER milage with my MC than with the original Carter, that means it isn't running better because it is running rich. Disconnect the other weak link by HEI-ing it and life is simple!