Has anyone had any experience with the c-clip eliminator in a Ford 8.8 rear axle?
I am trying not to weaken the gears in my 8.8 build by grinding teeth to put the cross pin in. I read a thread where they grind the cross pin, not sure what the right approach is.
The idea of being able to replace a broken axle without pulling the aussie locker apart has some appeal.
The 4:56 thick gears are making the build more difficult than I envisioned when I started. I'm so close to being able to close up the diff cover I can taste it. :smile2:
Don't worry about grinding the tip of one ring tooth. Do it easy to not heat it too much. I finessed it down with a flap wheel.
I later did the c-clip elim, but only for track reasons. I have Warn hub kit in front, which widens the track 2". The stock 8.8 is 1/2" narrower than a D35, so I initially used 1.25" spacers in the back to even the Jeep out. The c-clip elim installed later widened the back 2" too, and of course also eliminated the c-clip.
Like Don said, don't worry too much about making room for the crosspin. You're not gonna shred your ring gear because you had to clearance a tooth or 2. Your contact area should be below that anyway.
On the other hand the Yukon Ultimate 88 kit offers several advantages. Like Don, I mainly installed it for track width/clearance reasons.
I put in a Super 88 kit. From the now defunked Superior Axle. Which was axles and c-clip eliminators as a set.
I did it for the cro-mo axle shafts. But it does add 1 inch width to each side (the 8.8 was 1/2 inch narrower each side than the d35 was, so it recovers that and adds another 1/2 inch)and adds overbuilt bearings. C-clips are really not a breakage point for the 8.8.
BUT.. For me, I can not go backwards. If something does happen, I can not use stock 8.8 axle shafts, and the housing has been cut and grinded on. And Superior is out of business.
Mediceagle, go ahead and grind a tooth, it's fine, as we (I? lol) seem to be hijacking this thread, sorry.
Jeepster, I have the old Superior kit too. If I recall, the axles are regular Ford 9", just the correct length we need. I just looked to see Summit racing has the 31 spline Ford 9" axles in a LOT of different lengths. It would be nice to be able to figure out what our axle shaft lengths are from Superior so we'd know what to buy if needed.
I am very interested the turn of topic. I had thought of changing to a c-clip eliminator out of pure cowardice. But the expense without immediate gain is not smart. After I break something then I may change my mind.
I have so much time just making the, AMC Jeep made in Canada on Friday the week before they sold out to Chrysler, be reliable that I get overly cautious.
I am very interested the turn of topic. I had thought of changing to a c-clip eliminator out of pure cowardice. But the expense without immediate gain is not smart. After I break something then I may change my mind.
I have so much time just making the, AMC Jeep made in Canada on Friday the week before they sold out to Chrysler, be reliable that I get overly cautious.
If you're doing a c-clip eliminator to remove a big weak spot...C-clips really aren't the biggest issue.
The "weak" spot in an 8.8 is...from what I understand...is a bendable axle flange. And the tubes.
Weld your tubes.
Watch the side hills.
I bent my axle at the flange somehow and that was the start of my super 88 road.
I'd bet at least $2 that Yukon bought that product from Superior, of not the whole company. I just tried to call Yukon, was busy, so I sent an email asking if their kit is the same as the old Superior kit. I'll post back if I get an answer.
I watched one of my dear friends design & build the very first one (prototype) for Superior. He had me chip in a little to see if even a sloppy fabricator like myself could follow simple directions as he gave me instructions for one side.
The rest is history from there. I got the second kit ever made & I installed it mostly by myself as the instructions were being developed. My YJ was the Jeep used in the 4 Wheeler magazine article.
My need to upgrade from stock 8.8 parts was due to repeatedly bending 8.8 shafts AND the axles were bottoming out against my ARB cross pin & bending the cross pin of the ARB due to serious side loads.
I got one of the last Superior kits ever built! On ebay at a crazy price! Well, may be one of the last but it's sitting in my garage waiting to be installed. Came with stickers and everything!
Side loads can kill 'em. I bent at least one in Moab, at least one in Colorado, and a few in Johnson Valley/Hammers trails. Splines were twisted on one.
I carried spares - so no big deal. Even when I swapped to the Super 88 kit, I carried assembled spares for each side.
The Super 88 served me well & I have no complaints. I no longer run the Super 88.
My drivers side flange was bent on my 8.8. Perhaps I got it like that as it came from a wrecked exploder. The tire wobbled a bit. Could not feel it but could see it wobble.
That is why I upgraded.
So...breakage...
I sort of remember that Superior had a small batch of axles that were heat treated improperly and broke. All those were removed and replaced. Mine was not one of those. Anticanman had one break.
The c-clip eliminator put a bigger bearing in a better place with a stronger flange...flange bending issue delt with.
Add another to the list of no more c-clips. I have the yukon super 8.8 kit and I am very happy with it. The install was really straight forward. Hardest part was pressing on the bearings. (had to use the shop press where I work, as mine is too small)
I like the added width and the dual bolt pattern flanges. I have swapped to 5 on 5.5 in pattern because of a front hub conversion, so the width and bolt pattern of the kit worked perfect for me.
One more reason to carry lots and lots and lots of zip ties.
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