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Unread 09-24-2006, 02:35 PM   #16
northjeep
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Installment #4
It seems that the BA-10/5 has only 5 bolts holding the transfer case to the tranny. My transfer case had a nylon plug in the bottom right(viewed from t-case output) stud hole. I drilled out the nylon and chased the threads (which were intact) with a 3/8" coarse tap.

I then mounted the transfer case to the tranny for the last friggin time. I used red thread locking compound on all this stuff. * note I replaced the studs with bolts. The bolts that go through the t-case bracket are longer due to 1/4" bracket thickness.


I soaked the pilot bushing overnight in motor oil, after measuring both the input shaft of the nv3550 and the crank to confirm the fitment:


I dressed the crank with 220 sandpaper to remove what little corrosion there was. I then began "pressing" the pilot in place:



I used a 1 1/4" socket and a regular hammer with some paper towel between the pilot and the socket. Hammered evenly around all edges of the pilot until seated.



I then removed each flywheel bolt one by one and applied red thread locking compound before torquing them to 40 lb/ft. I then used the impact wrench to "degree" the bolts an additional 60 (from 12 to 2 o'clock).


Next I put the stubby end of the clutch alignment tool into the pilot and slid the clutch plate over the tool.


I applied the alignment cone to the tool and centered the clutch plate.


continued....

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Unread 09-24-2006, 03:08 PM   #17
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Installment #4 continued:

Next came the pressure plate. I applied red locking compound, hand tightened each bolt and centered the plate the best I could.



I then torqued the plate bolts to spec. 40-45lb/ft with my cheap flex beam wrench.



Back to the tranny/x-fer case - I put a new output yoke seal in the x-fer case and for good measure I applied some RTV. I then torqued the output yoke nut to spec. (170lb/ft) with an old tire iron wedged between the yoke and the floor to hold everything from spinning:


Then I took a break from that and decided to bleed the clutch slave/master and install the new lines. I had to remove the support rod from it's mount in order to get the master cap off.


I installed the 40" and 12" extension braided stainless line at the master: (EDIT You will see that the 90 elbow is on the master side in this photo. This turned out to be wrong, and I reversed the line to mount the elbow at the slave (clearance issue)

...and bled the slave by removing the plastic straps holding the slave piston in, filling the slave with fresh fluid, pumping the master while keeping it topped, installing the line at the slave once there was fluid in the line, and (holding the slave low to the ground and vertical) pumping the slave over and over and......until there were no more air bubbles reaching the master.


Then it was time to go under...In order
to slide the tranny under I had to remove the shift tower.


I had to give in and impact-wrench the exhaust off to get the tranny up and on.


And that's where it's at....I am having some trouble guiding her home.
So I went out and bought a trans jack adapter for my floor jack.
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Unread 09-25-2006, 12:56 AM   #18
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Installment #5

In no uncertain terms, reinstalling the transmission is the biggest PITA of this whole build. I cannot stress enough how important it is to align the clutch perfectly. If you don't you'll be wrestling with the trans for hours (like I did) and you won't get anywhere.

The trans adaptor for the floor jack made all the difference too.


I dropped the trans one last time to double check the clutch alignment. Big surprise, it was off center by about 1/16". Here's where I stress again that you must double and triple check the alignment of the clutch.

So after realigning, I jacked up the tranny again and played with it for about an hour to get it home. There's NOTHING more satisfying than seeing that pig slide home.


I used the two side bolts and one of the top bolts to align and drive the trans the last 1/2".



When you are doing any work which involves removing the tranny, make sure when you put it back on, the splines of the input shaft and the clutch are aligned.

I then continued by removing some dead u-joints:




More to come in the next installment!
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Unread 09-25-2006, 05:34 AM   #19
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This write up is really good, thanks for posting such a detailed account.

What did you mean by this though....

I dropped the tans one last time to double check the clutch alignment. Big supprise, it was out of alignment by about 1/16". Here's where I stress again that you must double and triple check the alignment of the clutch.

When I did my ba to ax-15 a couple of weeks back, I just aligned it in the center and slid the tranny up. How can you check the forward/back throw? Mines working fine, so I'm not going to mess with it, was just curious on how you measured.
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Unread 09-25-2006, 06:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richmond 88 YJ
This write up is really good, thanks for posting such a detailed account.

What did you mean by this though....

I dropped the tans one last time to double check the clutch alignment. Big supprise, it was out of alignment by about 1/16". Here's where I stress again that you must double and triple check the alignment of the clutch.

When I did my ba to ax-15 a couple of weeks back, I just aligned it in the center and slid the tranny up. How can you check the forward/back throw? Mines working fine, so I'm not going to mess with it, was just curious on how you measured.
Hey Richmond,

The clutch was not centered.
Hence re-alignment.
Glad yours was straightforward.
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Unread 10-01-2006, 08:47 AM   #21
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North,

It is hard to tell from the photo's, but do you have one of these to close up the bottom of the bellhousing?



I hope you do, hate to see you have to pull the tranny to install it. Also, there is a technical service bulletin to put some RTV at the top to close up the opening left at the top of the tranny to prevent dirt/mud, etc from getting in.

Great writeup.
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Built a YJ from the ground up:

- '04 4.0L (4,000 miles), NV3550 (0 miles), NP231 w/ HD SYE (9,000 miles), 33x12.50x15 Pro-Comp AT's, HP D30/8.8 (4.56 gears), ARB Lockers front and rear w/ compressor, hard/soft tops, full/half doors.
-----> Build thread can be read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/yj-build-plan-259306/
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Unread 10-01-2006, 09:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJ-Mike
North,

It is hard to tell from the photo's, but do you have one of these to close up the bottom of the bellhousing?



I hope you do, hate to see you have to pull the tranny to install it. Also, there is a technical service bulletin to put some RTV at the top to close up the opening left at the top of the tranny to prevent dirt/mud, etc from getting in.

Great writeup.

you dont have to remove the tranny to put in the shield.. i forgot to put mine in and i was able to slide it up with just removing the bolts and separating it just a little bit.
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Unread 10-01-2006, 09:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cueball
you dont have to remove the tranny to put in the shield.. i forgot to put mine in and i was able to slide it up with just removing the bolts and separating it just a little bit.
True, but it is a PITA to do that and get it around the alignment pins between the block and the bell. It can be done, I did mine that way as well.
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2006 TJ X (Stock - w/ Borla Cat-Back Exhaust)

Built a YJ from the ground up:

- '04 4.0L (4,000 miles), NV3550 (0 miles), NP231 w/ HD SYE (9,000 miles), 33x12.50x15 Pro-Comp AT's, HP D30/8.8 (4.56 gears), ARB Lockers front and rear w/ compressor, hard/soft tops, full/half doors.
-----> Build thread can be read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306
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Unread 10-01-2006, 10:24 AM   #24
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I have one yes...it's installed yea...and the next thing I want to do is eliminate the valve cover oil drip which is prevalent throughout that mating surface.
I could sell the oil back to Shell with the amount that's coming out of my valve cvr.
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Unread 10-01-2006, 11:13 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by northjeep
I have one yes...it's installed yea...and the next thing I want to do is eliminate the valve cover oil drip which is prevalent throughout that mating surface.
I could sell the oil back to Shell with the ammount that's coming out of my valve cvr.
Don't forget to close up the gap at the top with RTV. Marty SoCal (mechanic at a So Cal Jeep Dealer) over at the 4.0 swap forum at cjoffroad.com told me about the TSB to do this.
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2006 TJ X (Stock - w/ Borla Cat-Back Exhaust)

Built a YJ from the ground up:

- '04 4.0L (4,000 miles), NV3550 (0 miles), NP231 w/ HD SYE (9,000 miles), 33x12.50x15 Pro-Comp AT's, HP D30/8.8 (4.56 gears), ARB Lockers front and rear w/ compressor, hard/soft tops, full/half doors.
-----> Build thread can be read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306
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Unread 10-01-2006, 11:33 AM   #26
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I have to get the oil leak problem done first or no amount of RTV will stick.
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Unread 11-12-2006, 11:40 PM   #27
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Ok so Ive been driving with the new trans for a while now...overall I am satisfied.
Off-road the lower first gear is great.
Shifting could be better but I have some ideas about that which I will be working on soon.

Total Cost Involved (CDN dollars):
Tools $300
Oils $100
Tranny kit $2800
fasteners & misc $50
Shipping tax & duties $195
Total: $3445

Total time down 3 weeks.
Total time worked: 35 hrs
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Unread 02-09-2007, 04:28 PM   #28
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Just an update on my transmission swap.

I had some issues which were confusing once I got her back on the road... There was very hard shifting once warmed up. Hard shifting from 1-2 2-3 3-4 but not 4-5 and no problems downshifting. It almost led me to believe the synchros were wack.....but I figured out my troubles.

Clutch Master Cyl...the orig master is toast.

I'm very happy with this transmission...the kit I used...and the various suppliers involved.
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Unread 02-09-2007, 04:53 PM   #29
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North,

Great to hear that everything ended up working out for you. What fluid did you end up running in the 3550? I am getting to the point where I am about to start the thing up (hopefully), and I need to figure what fluids I am going to run.

Thanks
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2006 TJ X (Stock - w/ Borla Cat-Back Exhaust)

Built a YJ from the ground up:

- '04 4.0L (4,000 miles), NV3550 (0 miles), NP231 w/ HD SYE (9,000 miles), 33x12.50x15 Pro-Comp AT's, HP D30/8.8 (4.56 gears), ARB Lockers front and rear w/ compressor, hard/soft tops, full/half doors.
-----> Build thread can be read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=259306
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Unread 02-09-2007, 04:54 PM   #30
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Good write up Northjeep! I did the same swap at about the same time you did (as you know) . I havent even put 500 miles on the Jeep since the swap but I absolutely love that nice new NV3550 when I do get to drive it! If anyones going to swap out trannys its the way to go.
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