I'm also going to investigate the 15->20 tank mod and see if the PO had it done.
When I re-do the springs I also want to pull out the BL...
If the PO hasn't done the gas tank mod, having the 2" BL still in will help you finish it.
With the rear left axle tube on a jack stand, pull the back left tire. There's two plastic splash guards, one for the whole fender well and one for the very back corner. You could probably just pull the small one, but I pulled the big one because I wanted to bed line the fender well and discard the guard (I reinstalled the small one, though). Once you have the plastic and the tire out of the way, you have direct access to the vent hose and clamp and, more importantly, you can really get a grab on the inner tube that needs to be pulled out.
Even without the BL you could use the same method I used. I still had my 2" BL on when I did the gas tank mod and the extra 2" helped me move my right hand around in the already tight space. When I was finished with the mod I sprayed some bed liner all across the underside of the fender area, swapped my BL pucks for the 1" variety, put the small piece of plastic back in its place, put the fender flares back on (they're a lot easier to put on without the plastic guard) and put the wheel back on. I really like the way it all worked out.
Subscribed to your thread, too. Looks like you've got a great YJ to work with. If you haven't been considering it, think about using Raptor on the inner tub. I was hesitant about whether or not it would be useful, but I'm very happy that I did.
Good luck with the build!
95 YJ with: 2.5 Liters of pure squirrel fury. Now new and improved with ram air, ported intake, 4.0 TB, TB spacer, and PS exhaust. Stock transmission. 231 transfer w/SYE and TW ds. 2" shackle and 2" BL. Rolled on the highway doing 65, but working hard so she may rise again.
All right! Busy weekend. I did more cleaning and de-rusting. My buddy came over today to help me replace the skid plate under the gas tank with the heavier duty one by warn. Everything went off without a hitch, a couple of pictures are included. We had a tough time getting the hardware from lowes- they barely carried any grade 8 stuff at our local one. Noted for next time.
One thing I did notice, there was a u-bolt attached to a mount around the tail pipe that I think was supposed to be bolted to the body. it wasn't, was just dangling. Also, there was a metal bar welded to the tailpipe that had it braced against the gas tank. I couldn't find any lit on why it should have been there except to eventually poke a hole in the poly and start a gasoline fire on the highway. Just for the record, I got down there with the grinder to cut the damn thing off. Thanks for the confidence; no explosions.
Here we are both laying under the damn thing:
And the weird piece of metal I cut off.
I still need a torx bolt to pull the track bar- once that's off I'm probably going to replace the tailpipe with a simpler + straighter configuration.
No updates for a while because I haven't had a lot of time to get on the computer. I've started working on my lift and have a TON of pictures in my camera I need to upload. Mostly of my girlfriend documenting my "last moments" as I used the angle grinder by the gas tank... had the frame jacked up at the top of the jack stands to get springs on, or as I manually pushed the nitros in place on the front... anyway- I do have a minor emergency:
My driver side front brake hard line CRUMBLED when I tried to unhook it to connect my extended "soft lines". I see a lot of folks saying "go to advanced auto and tell them what you need and they'll have it" or that I can get some hard line and bend it. My two questions:
1) I live in Yuppyville northern VA and it's a coin flip whether the counter jockey at my Advanced Auto will know how to help me. I don't mind picking up a bender and new hardlines to build the lines myself, but will I need to get fittings too? I might as well do all of them since the one was in such bad shape. The way it broke had me thinking that one bad rock while I was wheeling on Saturday morning would have shot my brakes...
2) My brake fluid walked out of the hard line. All of it. Will I need to get the master cylindar on the bench to get everything back in shape?
Just some notes:
New shocks when in last week and made a HUGE difference on my daily-driving ride quality. I cleaned out the inside of the dash and started spraying PB on the body bolts two weeks ago so I can blow those bolts out and get the BL back down to 0". Today I did my front springs, and I'm taking the day off tomorrow to do my rears and to fix the break problem. Girlfriend luckily has the day off and has volunteered her car for me to go get parts... With the new springs on the front, and BESRK's boomers with .5" lift I'm at a MONSTER height... it's going to be even higher with the rear springs on. My 31s on the front look like toys... Look for some fun pictures tomorrow evening, and thanks for all of your help so far everyone!
Springs arrive, I set up a floor in the living room, installed the busings, and set up the shackles. My approach was to have to do as few steps outside as possible.
My girlfriend helped wrench all the bushings together, she's too good to me:
Then my housemate and I got to work on shocks the next morning.
My phone is dead, so I haven't taken pictures after I got the springs on but the situation got dire. All the springs are on, and the bolts are torqued. I broke two hard brakelines by accident, but they needed to be replaced anyway. The rust was pretty rough.
I think I really screwed up at the end though- brake lines I can build and bleed, but when I went to install the transfer case lowering spacers the rust was so bad on the skid plate that I think I pushed through one of the bolts and I hadn't even started torquing them yet. Additionally, the bolts that came with the kit didn't quite fit on the drivers I had- they fit but they needed to be tapped in a little with a small hammer. It took the largest wrench I have to even get them to screw in because of the rust in the upper threads too... I'm going to head back outside soon and try it again with a slightly different approach but I really feel like I need a new skid plate for the transfer case, and probably a different lowering kit. Had anyone used the square bracket t-case drop kit from skyjacker before?
I still have the 1" square tube that came with my lift kit unused, did an sye and shaft. For the rusty crusty floating nuts in the frame for the skid plate you can take a shotgun bore brush in a 3/8"drill and use the wire bore brush to clean up the threads in the nuts .20 gauge should do its tough but works effectively. When you install the bolts just dip into wheel bearing grease all the way to the head and install fully coated.
Roger that joker, thanks for the tip. That's a brush I haven't used in a while, but I found it! I wasn't planning on doing the sye until I did my gears, but it may be time to do it. On my way to adv. auto to get the brake hard-lines I need to replace... once those are done and I get the skid plate on I'll turn the engine over for the first time in 7 days... PHEW! Right now with the body lift still on she's jacked up a MILE, and I'm kinda worried about my transfer case sitting so low. I have the new body components and might get to it monday, but realistically thursday night.
Just wanted to post an updated picture. Have done lots of work... brakes and some fluids. Got rid of the 31s for 33s on 18s and I pulled out the body lift. That was the easiest job I've done so far! Only took 2 hours with all new hardware and body mounts
Unfortunately, Carly Rae is going to have to go in the classifieds section. It's been a lot of fun, but I've hit a point where it's time to upgrade to something family friendly. In a few years when there's room in the garage, I'll pick up another- but I'm going to miss my low mileage YJ.