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Unread 09-30-2012, 03:32 PM   #1
i95yj
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Build Thread: Carly Rae

Hey everyone! Starting a build based on my new-to-me '95 Red YJ. The original owner garage kept it, and definitely didn't ever want it on the trail. All maintenance has been done by a dealership, and she came with records. I almost feel like she was just saving herself for my first trip to the trail


There's 2" of body lift, and what looks like the flattest set of leaf springs I've ever seen on a vehicle. That's fine for 31 all-terrains, but my build by spring time is going to be 33s. I'm planning on swapping in a rough country 2.5" suspension lift by the end of the month, along with an aussie locker before we start getting snow in the mid-atlantic.


While I'm procuring those and coordinating with my buddy to use his garage to do the work, there's a bunch of daily-driver items that need repair I'm going to do this week and next week; pictures will follow. First of all, the doors came off of a junkyard jeep and have some extremely deep rust at the bottom right of both windows. The weather stripping along the side windows of the hard top also needs to be replaced- currently lightly patched with duct tape. I'm not leaking inside too much when it rains yet :P


Also, the previous owner had the stereo stolen when she parked it in the city, so a new waterproof set up and a new set of speakers will have to go in. I've been driving it on my daily commute with my phone plugged in to some un-amplified speakers and the only music I can hear over 40 mph is the hum of the engine.


More pictures to come as I get work done this week. Thanks for the read!

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Unread 09-30-2012, 06:29 PM   #2
Hard_oNe
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Excellent condition to start with. If you plan on 33's, with only a 2" bl?
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Unread 09-30-2012, 07:34 PM   #3
jokerchief462
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Nice rig welcome to the forum. Keep us posted on the build I always love to see old sheet metal come back to life and trailing is what is was built for great news!!!
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Unread 10-08-2012, 06:25 AM   #4
i95yj
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Update after this weekend: I got underneath and finally went through all the fluids. Everything looks fine. The previous owner allowed the dealership to totally baby this jeep. I've got a couple of questions if anyone does read this: Before I started fighting a war with the rust I do have a question. There is a gasket highlighted with a circle and a thicker arrow in this picture:

It feels like it's imminently going to pop off on both driver and passenger sides. I used the search and couldn't find any info about changing it out, or if there's even any risk of blowing it off. It looks like the join was just overgreased... Taking care of the door rust today and hopefully painting a bunch of the undercarriage. My slip yoke looks like it's made of rust

Edit: Twice driving home from work in the last week I've gotten a low idle (around 800 instead of 1k). Hoping it's a vacuum leak; going to test for it today.
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Unread 10-08-2012, 07:12 AM   #5
spiegeljb
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that is the sway bar and disconnect. real YJs dont run sway bars or track bars so if you plan on doing any offroading take those off, or just buy real quick disconnects and you will replace that bushing
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Unread 10-08-2012, 07:29 AM   #6
sxi4evr
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yeah everyone is going to tell you to remove the sway bar completely but its up to you. if you don't i wouldn't worry about that bushing. the only downside to no swaybar is a little bit of body roll around corners but if you plan on getting a rough country lift like you said above, their springs are stiff enough to where you won't even notice it. (based on personal experience)

also 800 rpm at idle sounds about right...
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Unread 10-08-2012, 08:30 AM   #7
i95yj
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I'll do some reading about pulling the sway bar. I'm sure there's some lit on the forum already if everyone's doing it. This jeep lived in new york city from purchase until 2010 and the rust from the road salt is ... extremely rough. Just spent some time underneath cleaning the chassis a little more and making sure everything is greased. I couldn't find a grease fitting on the rear u-joints anywhere. Hopefully I'm missing it; will search around. Just some notes from this morning:
Right off the bat, I was cleaning around the oil filter and I found this stuck to it:

Guess it was dropped in and the mechanic was too lazy to fish it out.
I've got an exhaust rub that I'm planning on just slapping a hose clamp around, marked with the circle:

I'm concerned about how rusty my gas tank cover is:

It's basically got the same trim on the other side. I assume the solution for this is to just replace it with a new one or bend my own. Quadratec has it for $180 which seems reasonable considering I don't have the right equipment at home so I'd end up having to ask someone for help...
There's also a piece of worn out rubber sticking out from my passenger rear spring:
Right now, it's just motivation to get my suspension swapped. The relay for the horn is dead... so I'm off to get a new one of those and that hose clamp for the exhaust.

Does anyone have recommendations about that rust? If it were my lawnmower, chainsaw, or generator I would clean it bare with a wire brush and paint it. In searching around I haven't found a recommendation one way or another; there's only information on keeping parts rust free when they're already clean.

Thanks for all the reads, I really appreciate the input and I'm stoked to be part of the community!
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Unread 10-08-2012, 09:09 AM   #8
zte87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i95yj
I'll do some reading about pulling the sway bar. I'm sure there's some lit on the forum already if everyone's doing it. This jeep lived in new york city from purchase until 2010 and the rust from the road salt is ... extremely rough. Just spent some time underneath cleaning the chassis a little more and making sure everything is greased. I couldn't find a grease fitting on the rear u-joints anywhere. Hopefully I'm missing it; will search around. Just some notes from this morning:
Right off the bat, I was cleaning around the oil filter and I found this stuck to it:

Guess it was dropped in and the mechanic was too lazy to fish it out.
I've got an exhaust rub that I'm planning on just slapping a hose clamp around, marked with the circle:

I'm concerned about how rusty my gas tank cover is:

It's basically got the same trim on the other side. I assume the solution for this is to just replace it with a new one or bend my own. Quadratec has it for $180 which seems reasonable considering I don't have the right equipment at home so I'd end up having to ask someone for help...
There's also a piece of worn out rubber sticking out from my passenger rear spring:
Right now, it's just motivation to get my suspension swapped. The relay for the horn is dead... so I'm off to get a new one of those and that hose clamp for the exhaust.

Does anyone have recommendations about that rust? If it were my lawnmower, chainsaw, or generator I would clean it bare with a wire brush and paint it. In searching around I haven't found a recommendation one way or another; there's only information on keeping parts rust free when they're already clean.

Thanks for all the reads, I really appreciate the input and I'm stoked to be part of the community!
Just ditch the track bars and you won't have any more exhaust rub!
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Unread 10-08-2012, 09:26 AM   #9
branjmb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i95yj View Post

.
the top circle shows the sway bar like everyone says. People often tell you to ditch these. I have taken mine off, but I have my quick disconnect links sitting in my cab.

It can be dangerous if you have to react quickly on the road at high speeds, cuz the suspension will give more. There have only been a few instances when I have actually felt like something could go wrong. Braking hard and pulling onto the shoulder of a road to turn off onto a side road makes it kinda whip back into the road for an instant. Hard to explain, but it's quick enough that people don't seem to realize you've done anything erratic.

I would absolutely get quick disconnects, just to carry around if you don't want them on. Because it really is a little safer in the long run... Most jeepers just like to risk it or they go wheeling enough that they don't want to take them on and off

but absolutely DO get rid of the track bars front and rear.

good luck with the rust! I'm subscribed!
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Unread 10-08-2012, 10:51 AM   #10
i95yj
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Ok, soaked the track bar mounts with pb. Going to try and pull them both this afternoon. I'm also going to get stupid about rust and start just painting parts. I'm definitely a noob when it comes to cleaning rust and painting exhaust and chassis components. I assume there's really nothing I SHOULDN'T get rustoleum on, but I'll still try and be careful.

Edit: researching the discos. The only ride I have that's close to "highway" is heading to my parents house about an hour west. Occasionally I have to work downtown too, but that's stop and go traffic the whole way. We don't really have any highway-speed highway driving around washington DC. I'm leaning toward just pulling the bar since it's so damn rusted out, but if the quick discos aren't out of budget I might rig it up so I only pull them when I'm 4 wheeling.

Also, those shims in the leaf springs... should I sweat about them? Two are coming out. I'm planning on having a new suspension in 500 miles.

Edit 2: Track bars still soaking. Couldn't torque them off and I'd rather not cut the bolts without a spare set hanging around. Will give them a go again tomorrow after work. Also going to just order a new tank skid plate. Right now there's a piece of rubber wire tied on the bottom of the engine that I assume is some kind of ghetto mud flap... that's coming off and getting replaced with a plate also. Started cleaning and painting stuff... can't hurt right?
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Unread 10-08-2012, 11:46 AM   #11
flcracker
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Subscribed.... Got a '92 that needs some of the same stuff....
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Unread 10-09-2012, 05:34 PM   #12
sxi4evr
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don't paint any exhaust components and don't worry about those rubber pieces in the leaf springs
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Unread 10-09-2012, 05:43 PM   #13
Carlos14
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Looks good, I would recommend choosing springs other than the rough country springs. My build thread below may assist you in your lift choices. I pieced mine together using Superlift leafs and I couldn't be happier. And it's cheaper.

And once you get some rustoleum on that underneath its gonna look great! A little paint always helps.

Good luck!!
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Unread 10-09-2012, 06:28 PM   #14
jokerchief462
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They are several ways to attack rust so you can clean it as best you can without total teardown and sandblast. A good selection of wire wheel brushed for an electric drill or air driven tools. A cutoff wheel is also great for grinding rust, and the the usual sander which doesn't fit frame components to well. As for treating the rust you want to use something that converts the rust to an inert substance. Preferably a spray aand paint on combination. The stuff I use is expensive but is supposed to work great. POR 15 which is pint over rust it is available all over the internet so shop around. It will take a lot of time and effort so during my build I just took the time to deal with everything I worked on and the areas around it. You can also save a lot of money and get a good bench grinder with a wire wheel brush, good gloves and safety glasses to clean up all your hardware. For inside the nuts or on the frame nutserts I have been using bore brushed for gun cleaning in a 3/8 drill to clean them up. I use a lot of wheel; bearing grease and anti-sieze and thread locker depending on the circumstances. And then you need to find a spray can sour ce for a good primer and paint. You will get real good as you go along trying breathe some new life into your Jeep. And oh by the way you have it what everybody else has so admit it. You have the addiction known as JEEP YJ. Good luck.
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Unread 10-09-2012, 06:41 PM   #15
i95yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos14 View Post
Looks good, I would recommend choosing springs other than the rough country springs. My build thread below may assist you in your lift choices. I pieced mine together using Superlift leafs and I couldn't be happier. And it's cheaper.

And once you get some rustoleum on that underneath its gonna look great! A little paint always helps.

Good luck!!
Once I looked at what's actually in the kits, you're right. It's about the same price to part the thing out and get better springs. Doing some research now. When I was measuring my gas tank skid plate to decide if I'm going to make one or buy one I noticed my rear diff's plug is leaking so I'm adding that to my list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerchief462
They are several ways to attack rust so you can clean it as best you can without total teardown and sandblast. A good selection of wire wheel brushed for an electric drill or air driven tools. A cutoff wheel is also great for grinding rust, and the the usual sander which doesn't fit frame components to well. As for treating the rust you want to use something that converts the rust to an inert substance. Preferably a spray aand paint on combination. The stuff I use is expensive but is supposed to work great. POR 15 which is pint over rust it is available all over the internet so shop around. It will take a lot of time and effort so during my build I just took the time to deal with everything I worked on and the areas around it. You can also save a lot of money and get a good bench grinder with a wire wheel brush, good gloves and safety glasses to clean up all your hardware. For inside the nuts or on the frame nutserts I have been using bore brushed for gun cleaning in a 3/8 drill to clean them up. I use a lot of wheel; bearing grease and anti-sieze and thread locker depending on the circumstances. And then you need to find a spray can sour ce for a good primer and paint. You will get real good as you go along trying breathe some new life into your Jeep. And oh by the way you have it what everybody else has so admit it. You have the addiction known as JEEP YJ. Good luck.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for... I've got wire wheels for my bench and angle grinders, but I needed the push to feel comfortable using them on parts for my car.

I've also been seeing ref's to the por15, so adding that to the parts order for the week.

Thanks for all the support, will keep this updated with pictures as my wallet gets lighter!

Edit: In looking for springs, it seems like it's CHEAPER to find 3/5" or 4" springs instead of the 2.5" I was looking for... if that's the case then I'm going to punt the body lift it came with and go that route. We'll see what pops up in the next few days...
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