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Unread 08-24-2012, 12:19 PM   #1
Rproject
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Broken thermostat housing bolt - HELP!

While changing out the upper/lower hoses I decided the change the thermostat from 195 to 180. The nut on the bottom of the thermostat housing came off simple enough, but the head of the bolt through the center of the housing snapped off. While I'm none to pleased that it snapped, I would figure that the housing should slide right off the broken bolt, but it doesn't. Is the bolt threaded through the housing and into the engine or should the housing slide right off the broken bolt?

I've got the sealant loosened around the housing, but it appears to be stuck on the now broken bolt and there's no way to get a drill in there and an EZ-out to extract the broken bolt.

HELP!?!?!?!????

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Unread 08-24-2012, 01:04 PM   #2
Louie4
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I would wedge a paint scraper between the thermostat housing and cylinder head and go all around. Once that is done you can put a flathead screwdriver in and pry it off little by little all around. If the bolt head is broke on the upper bolt and there is no bolt in the bottom there is no reason it shouldn't come off with a little persuasion.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 01:09 PM   #3
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I got the housing off. Still have to determine if my gentle prying caused irreparable damage to the housing, but now I'm beating my head against a wall on this bolt. I've PB blasted the living daylights out of it and gotten a pair of vise grips on it to try to rock it back/forth to loosen it. She's stuck but good. Don't really want to go after heat since the v-belts are right in the area and I'm pretty sure I'll melt a belt or two.

Any other thoughts on how to get this bleeping bleep bleep bleepin bolt out?
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1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
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Unread 08-24-2012, 01:37 PM   #4
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I was trying to NOT call my buddy who's a mechanic to help me. I prefer the satisfaction of doing the job myself. After several text messages with my buddy and several applications of PB, I got a WIGGLE! I was ecstatic!!! 45 minutes later the bolt was in my hand and NOT in the engine compartment.

Time to go get a new stat, gasket, upper/lower hoses, bolt and maybe a housing.
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1995 Blue YJ i-4 AX-5 33" Cepek Crushers on 2.5" Rancho lift - SOLD October 2010
1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
1987 Maroon YJ i-6 Auto (1.5" body lift. OME 2 1/2" lift. Rancho RS5000 shocks. Rancho steering stabilizer. A-Z Fabrication rock slides. More upgrades coming soon - LOL)


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Unread 08-24-2012, 02:17 PM   #5
trboxman
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Just a word to the wise...make sure you let the sealant cure for at least 20 minutes before you fill with antifreeze and crank over the engine...otherwise you're likely to get a nice little leak...
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Unread 08-24-2012, 02:37 PM   #6
Cooter92YJ
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Glad you got it out. If and/or when you get another broken bolt to deal with, try a good solid smack with a hammer, straight on if possible. Seems to help shock the rust/gunk loose in my experience anyway.
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Unread 08-24-2012, 03:33 PM   #7
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Thanks Cooter, I did smack it with a hammer. Between that and the PB it finally came out.

trboxman, I put the stat in first, then went after the hoses. I'm hoping I didn't jack up the gasket putting the housing back on, but I don't think I did. Since the hoses were not exact replacements, I had to trim them a little. By the time I was done with that, I was well past 20 minutes, then I had to wait on my wife to come out and hold the funnel while I poured the recovered anti-freeze back in via a 5 gallon bucket, and we all know what wives mean when they say, "I'll be right there." LOL
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Unread 08-24-2012, 03:37 PM   #8
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LOL, sounds just like the last time I went through that process...
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Unread 08-24-2012, 05:38 PM   #9
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Wee Hee no leaky. LOL

The whole purpose of this little adventure was to change to a 180 stat, which by the way has made an instant improvement in performance.
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1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
1987 Maroon YJ i-6 Auto (1.5" body lift. OME 2 1/2" lift. Rancho RS5000 shocks. Rancho steering stabilizer. A-Z Fabrication rock slides. More upgrades coming soon - LOL)


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Unread 08-24-2012, 10:41 PM   #10
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So why the 180* thermostat?
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Unread 08-24-2012, 10:56 PM   #11
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Primarily to keep her cooler on the trail, but at her age, a little cool down is good for the soul (AKA block) :-)
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1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
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Unread 08-25-2012, 11:04 PM   #12
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FWIW, it was designed to run with a 195 thermostat...it's primitive computer is expecting that temp and will feed more fuel into the carb thinking that it's still trying to come up to temp.
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Unread 08-26-2012, 07:30 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info. I'll keep an eye on my fuel economy to see if it drops at all, but so far she's running rather well with the lower temps. Quicker off the line and better acceleration from 40-55mph (she rarely gets on the highway).
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1995 Blue YJ i-4 AX-5 33" Cepek Crushers on 2.5" Rancho lift - SOLD October 2010
1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
1987 Maroon YJ i-6 Auto (1.5" body lift. OME 2 1/2" lift. Rancho RS5000 shocks. Rancho steering stabilizer. A-Z Fabrication rock slides. More upgrades coming soon - LOL)


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Unread 08-30-2012, 04:18 PM   #14
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Alright guys, it's been a week and here's the preliminary results of changing from a 195 to a 180 thermostat.

Fuel economy: While it's early, fuel economy has gone up 15%
Starting: No effect on starting, BUT, she definitely warms up faster and I can take her off high idle much sooner
Running: Quicker off the line, better acceleration from 40-55mph.

I have not seen a single downside to changing the t-stat from 195 to 180 and look forward to a cooler running engine on the trails.
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1995 Blue YJ i-4 AX-5 33" Cepek Crushers on 2.5" Rancho lift - SOLD October 2010
1996 White ZJ i-6 auto bone stock
1987 Maroon YJ i-6 Auto (1.5" body lift. OME 2 1/2" lift. Rancho RS5000 shocks. Rancho steering stabilizer. A-Z Fabrication rock slides. More upgrades coming soon - LOL)


The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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