broken hard top. how can i fix it? - Page 2

dagoober · 03-06-2009, 01:04 AM

its not really a crack. its more of a break. its hard to explain. you'll see wen i get pics up.

**lobukjeep** · 03-06-2009, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MosinMe

!!!!!!!!!!!!

I tried using fiber glass fiber and resin and the stuff just wouldn't stick to the hard top! It just kept slipping off like a wet noodle instead of bonding. I was trying to fix some chipped spots along the bottom edges.

I was forced to use a few layers of bondo to get the desired results. Maybe JB weld would work on your crack...?

Perfect example of what i was talking about.That's SMC.If you don't want it to fall out you need to use an automotive epoxy of some sort.Fix it once and be done with it.

deerslayer45 · 03-06-2009, 07:50 AM

Try looking up "West System", can be purchased at most boat us and west marine stores.its a two part epoxy that I have used to fix aluminum and fiberglass boats, used to to repair plastic boady panels on motorcycles. Its really good stuff, just doesnt have a long working time so you gotta be quick. Dries rock hard and is sandable, also you can use fiberglass cloth with it as well. They sell a repair kit called a maxi kit with 6 two part packs for about 35 bucks, think it should work well for you! Let me know if you need any more info on it I have used it a lot!

glimmerman · 03-06-2009, 12:01 PM

My HT had a nasty "dent" between the drivers door and rear window on the curve from roof to side.(8"dia.tree branch nailed it) Body shop wanted 1000.00 to fix. I went to AutoZone picked up BondoGlass all the extras and patched, sanded and painted for about 175.00

dagoober · 03-07-2009, 05:49 PM

im guessing this would be a bit harder to fix than something like that.
heres a pic

for some reason it wont post the image wen i put the image code in. sorry for the picture quality. it was snowing and i wasent wearing a jacket so i wanted to be quick.

**Mean Max** · 03-07-2009, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dagoober

im guessing this would be a bit harder to fix than something like that.
heres a pic

Clicky-free!

That's ugly!

Max

dagoober · 03-07-2009, 06:03 PM

thanks max

**Mean Max** · 03-07-2009, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dagoober

thanks max

No sweat! It's what drives me out of bed each day!

Max

SECorBust · 07-27-2009, 09:20 AM

I know why it's shiny! With those fugly fenders on it you were ashamed to take it out of the garage.

glimmerman · 07-27-2009, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SECorBust

I know why it's shiny! With those fugly fenders on it you were ashamed to take it out of the garage.

You are referring to my renegade???

CreepyCrawler95 · 07-27-2009, 10:15 AM

dont feel bad i left in front of my jeep and i strtd it and it just happened to be in gear and then didnt stall out haha...along with my hard doors

**yotefever** · 11-22-2009, 08:36 AM

My hard top was cracked on the bottom front corner right behind the door. I referred to my bil, the chemist as to what will work on it after I was told by a local jeep shop that he's never gotten anything to stick.
He stated that there is a release agent used with the mold that needs to be removed before the fiberglass/epoxy will stick. Either sanding or use acetone to remove it.
As far as the window adhesive, it is a urethane adhesive, DO NOT USE SILICON!
I just had my windshield replaced and they stated that a 6 - 8 hour set time urethane is used. If there is silicon it will have to be removed and it's not easy.
They also cleaned up the channel to remove all the rust from a previous windshield replacement and primed and painted it so it won't rust. It gets scratched when people use the wrong tools to remove the old adhesive. They let me watch as they removed the windshield and I was glad I didn't do it myself and it was only a few bucks more than the parts would have cost me and it was done by professionals. (don't get me wrong I usually am a diy person

)