Broken Body Mount bolt - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 16 Old 10-30-2008, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
ChiroSean
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Broken Body Mount bolt

Ok. I tried to get the body mount bolts out to put on the tube steps and they were extremely rusted. after trying to soak them good with penetrating oil and rocking them back and forth I was able to get one of them out, 2 others slightly loose, and broke one off. How big of a problem is the broken one going to be for me? It is the drivers side rear. There are still 5 out of 6 holding the tub to the frame. Also what would be the best way to fix that broken one. I was talking to one of my buddies and he said i should try to get all 6 out and put new ones in. He said even it they all break off we could drill and tap them. What do you guys think??? Or should I just leave them and not worry about the one broken bolt. Thanks!

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post #2 of 16 Old 10-30-2008, 09:29 PM
RoverJeep90
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You need to address the problem. Putting a temporary fix on an old vehicle is not a good idea structurally. Don't consider it a "leave-it-off-the-road" issue, but make it a number one priority to have those bolts in their correctly. If I understand what you are saying, the driver's side rear body mount by the door, not the rear meaning all the way back at the bumper. In the case of the door area, you will probably have to drill, cut, etc. through the body. In the case of the bumper, you will have to cut the bumper area, but that solution is much easier.

If you have any other questions about removing body mount bolts, there are a few good threads on the forum about the process.

Here is one I put together when I did mine, but that's not to say it's the best. There are tons of threads out there, just get comfortable searching keywords in the search function at the top of the forum. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...=503613&page=2

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post #3 of 16 Old 10-30-2008, 09:52 PM
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Chiro--there are a total of 11 body mount bolts.

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post #4 of 16 Old 10-31-2008, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
ChiroSean
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thanks, I am only talking about the ones between the wheels on both sides. I am going to try drilling the small holes first to spray the nuts with PB blaster and if that doesn't work I will cut the small relief openings in the tub floor. Thanks guys. I guess if I am going through all this work I should consider the 1" body lift as well, what do you think? With only 1" lift do you still have to mess with the steering and shift linkages?
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-31-2008, 08:40 AM
sebastian22
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Youre lucky man, you broke one that is easy to fix.

Have fun!











EDIT: 1" body lift is a good idea...just be ready for more broken bolts. I broke 3 of 11 when I did my body lift.

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post #6 of 16 Old 05-19-2010, 03:59 PM
Fouse
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sebastian22, how did you get the metal cage with the snaped bolt out?
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post #7 of 16 Old 05-20-2010, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
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sebastian22, how did you get the metal cage with the snaped bolt out?
I think youre talking about the sheet metal that holds the threaded metal plate (that the body mount bolt screws into)...correct? It is hard to get to, but you will have to cut it, grind it, dremel it, pry it, etc. I used a small grinder to cut it and then pryed it with a screwdriver.

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post #8 of 16 Old 05-20-2010, 01:51 PM
warrenpeace24
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instead of cutting a hole in your floor i'd drill and tap them first. If that doesn't work cut the floor.
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post #9 of 16 Old 05-21-2010, 08:27 AM
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^Good luck with that.

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post #10 of 16 Old 05-21-2010, 09:03 AM
zoomin0074
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I just tried to drill and tap my rear body mount bolt. Went through 3 different bits and still never got it through. Ended up cutting away the sheetmetal, removing the little steel plate and putting a new bolt in.

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post #11 of 16 Old 05-21-2010, 09:36 AM
YJhobby
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It's posts like this that make me think I'd better have a 2" hole saw ready when I do my body lift. It might be quicker to go at them from the top to begin with! considerign the amount of rust that is apparent already.

~Steve~

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post #12 of 16 Old 05-21-2010, 12:25 PM
warrenpeace24
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I used to work at a fertilizer plant, the amount of rust you would find on normal equipment was just disgusting. I broke off bolts every time I worked on something and there was only a couple times I had to resort to a torch or other means.

I personally wouldn't want to stare at a hole in my floor. I'd have to weld the old piece back in or something.
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post #13 of 16 Old 05-21-2010, 01:19 PM
YJhobby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrenpeace24 View Post
I personally wouldn't want to stare at a hole in my floor. I'd have to weld the old piece back in or something.
Without a doubt... I do not want to lose things in those holes! I was just thinking that it might be easier to start off with the holesaw and replace all the rusty threaded plates and cages with new hardware from the get-go. Then cover up the holes accordingly. Every jeep is at a different stage of decay though... My body and frame are in great shape... its my bumpers and floorboards that are rusting through, and the body mount bolts are pretty bad too.

~Steve~

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowdogMarc
YJ's don't get stuck....they get temporarily impeeded in their forward progress.


I'm patiently waiting for the "foot-in-mouth" moment to end... but since I've posted, its not today
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post #14 of 16 Old 11-08-2010, 06:02 AM
1HANDGRENADE
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What size are the body mount bolts: Length and thread type?
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post #15 of 16 Old 11-08-2010, 09:33 AM
sebastian22
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i believe the 1 under the grille and the 2 in front of the gas tank are 7/16", all the rest are 1/2" all course thread. dont know the lenghts.

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