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Broken ball joint and both cv axles

2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  NHfireLJ 
#1 ·
Do I repair this stock Dana 30, my rear is Dana 35, ? Is it time to just swap axles now for something better? I would love lockers! 93 yj 4inch lift 33" tires 10.5 r15 woody shaft for front "just got it" trying out and broke cv axles :( will I need a new front drive shaft for the axle swap?
 

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#2 ·
Depends on what front you go with. I had to shorten my front quite a bit when I went to a D60. D44 you may* be good. IMO the 30 is a good axle and not worth upgrading unless you are going to one tons. U joints are the same between a 30 and a 44. If you are sticking with 33's and know you won't be going bigger then. Just fix the 30 throw in some chromo's with good u joints (CTM etc). 8.8 the rear and wheel the piss out of it. OTC's ball joint adapter kit make changing ball joints a breeze. You can loan the ball joint press from your local auto parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Dodge-Joint-Service-Adapter/dp/B0002SRGW0

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#7 ·
x2 on the 8.8 ; it's probably the most rock solid thing on my jeep. If you're going to pull one from a junkyard, IIRC grab an early 90's explorer with the limited slip diff. Just make sure when you change out the fluid that you actually use the full synthetic gear oil as ford recommends and add the $10 bottle of friction modifier, as specified.

On another note to the OP, :thumbsup: to the trail fix with the ratchet strap. I'm keeping that in mind, but hopefully i'll never need to use it... you know, boy scout motto: Be Prepared.
 
#4 ·
So the ball joints broke and I think you're right about the CVs just being collateral damage. So I figured I would start with the ball joints I got them both Pressed in all the way. Plenty of videos showing how too. But I'm having trouble putting the knuckle back on. The bottom ball joint I can tighten down and bottom them out, but the top one when I tighten down I still have a half inch gap between the knuckle and the gasket for the ball joint. There is a brass nut "preload" something something in my kit that I don't see any use for on my knuckle??? Saw a video with it threading on bottom?? What I was wondering is if my inner c is bent and had a check for that? Or should I just keep on tightening that upper ball joint tell that thing is flush however it seemed like the cotter pin might be above the nut if I keep tightening..... I knew it would be frustrating but I figured I would at least change some ball joints and get her back on the road with no inner axles maybe tell I can see about funding new axles or decide to just beef up that Dana 30.... what am I doing wrong here? I was thinking I would pull off the other side maybe taking apart manually will help with reinstall lol. And ehh
 
#5 ·
fellinloveyj said:
So the ball joints broke and I think you're right about the CVs just being collateral damage. So I figured I would start with the ball joints I got them both Pressed in all the way. Plenty of videos showing how too. But I'm having trouble putting the knuckle back on. The bottom ball joint I can tighten down and bottom them out, but the top one when I tighten down I still have a half inch gap between the knuckle and the gasket for the ball joint. There is a brass nut "preload" something something in my kit that I don't see any use for on my knuckle??? Saw a video with it threading on bottom?? What I was wondering is if my inner c is bent and had a check for that? Or should I just keep on tightening that upper ball joint tell that thing is flush however it seemed like the cotter pin might be above the nut if I keep tightening..... I knew it would be frustrating but I figured I would at least change some ball joints and get her back on the road with no inner axles maybe tell I can see about funding new axles or decide to just beef up that Dana 30.... what am I doing wrong here? I was thinking I would pull off the other side maybe taking apart manually will help with reinstall lol. And ehh
The ball joint stud is a specific taper. Not a straight fit. Once it tightens it is tight, it doesn't sit "on the gasket."

It's hard to bend an inner c but it has been done. Did you jump it or run hard into something in the mud? Maybe PO damage? Traffic accident? Is the axle itself bent?

I'm a little concerned for your safety since you managed to break both front axle U JOINTS and wreck the front end all at once. And I'm not sure how or why. Since *I* can't look at it I don't know what to say or answer re: your questions. You might be best served to have an alignment shop check the camber and caster because that will show right away if anything is bent because those are not adjustable on a YJ. (Does anybody actually make an eccentric ball joint for a YJ?)
 
#6 ·
Go by the torque specs.
That threaded insert is used for another axle not for your 30.
You do know that you are going to have the outer stub shaft installed to hold the unit bearing together right?
It is pretty likely that you broke your u joint first and with the axle shaft flopping around, it took the ball joint out afterwards.
 
#10 ·
So if I swapped out my front axle with a 3.55 and my rear is 3.07. Obviously this is over 1% so I have a rear that is supposed to be a match 3.55 but the tag is gone... I'm thinking about just doing the 8.8 swap hopefully with a disc brake conversion and limited slip differential. However I'm wondering can I run it the way it is as long as I don't put it in four wheel? I think my transfer case is the NP 231... why do I have to remove my front driveshaft?
 
#11 ·
You don't HAVE to remove the front shaft, its a good idea, so there is no way to engage 4wd and grenade your whole drive train... If you leave the front DS connected and forget about the mismatched ratios and engage the 4wd, KABOOM!

Its been done before, despite someone saying, I wont forget... Or Place a big red "DO NOT ENGAGE" tag on the shift lever...
 
#12 ·
You can run it that way..... Aint gonna hurt nothing... Long as you dont put in 4x4... and even if you do as long as its real slippery conditions you ok.... Did it more than once.. Heck mud trucks over drive the front to help it track.. but mud very forgiving.. hard pack dirt road would bind the **** out of the Tcase..

People that need reminders not to pull the driveshaft for fear of FORGETTING.............. please...

If you gonna do the 8.8 dont waste the opportunity and go with 355, but go 410 instead.. They are just as easier to find than anything close to 355.
Or 3.73 gears which is the most common. Then regear the front or find another axle that has those gears.. Easy to find 410 up front from a 4 banger...
 
#13 ·
So on my way home my rear drive shaft blew. With a babe I just picked up, after a few cus words and a Phillips screw driver, my tire iron/flat head I was able get the u joint apart "c clip style" on the transfer case side, disconecting the rear. " it blew apart at the differential side. I was able to make it home in 4hi with just the front attached. It broke the housing on the transfer case but just the cone shaped piece that bolts on there. Is it time for a t-case swap or can I repair that. Looks like it's time for the 8.8 with no delay then I can get a new woody shaft to match the front. As far as re gearing the front, I would like the Chrome Molly axles but it looked pretty dang hard to shim them....???? I would love 4:10 gears tho!!. Thoughts? Pics will follow tomorrow.
 
#14 ·
I see you started a thread for the above advice. I recommend single threads when you arelooking for advice... mutliple threads for the same issue / questions etc.. it muddies the forum, people forget where they responded, you'll get twice as many possible conflicting answers... Just my 2 Cents...

You can always delete a thread or an individual post in a thread. FYI. I see Chris responded in your other thread with good advice...
 
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