[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by Que89YJ

I am still following too! I wish I could have chimed in before the order. There is a cool upgrade foor the booster. The 95 4.0L booster is significantly larger and comes with a dual diaphram. If it isn't too late I would strongly suggest ordering it as a replacement.

I'm not certain that the pre-'95 master cylinders will fit on the '95 4.0L dual diaphragm booster.

On that note, only the '95 4.0L had the dual diaphragm booster, while the 2.5L had the same single diaphragm booster used previously. In addition, the master cylinder for the '95 4.0L has the lines discharge on the left side, facing the fender, while the single diaphragm models discharge on the right side, facing the intake manifold.

Max

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by Mean Max

The rod in the power booster that pushes the master cylinder piston is threaded & can be adjusted in & out by turning it. It should be almost touching the master cylinder piston while at rest. Leave a tiny amount of clearance to insure that the brakes do not drag.

Max

FWIW, I did this rod adjustment on an '82 CJ7 in the shop today. The pedal went from laying on the floor to a really nice high pedal.

Max

[rocknjeep]

Thanks so much for still following guys.

Que89YJ - I was aware of this upgrade. I actually did quite a bit of reading on it. But considering I had just spent money on another MC I wasn't looking to spend more cash on the PB MC set up from the 95. I did hit the junk yards a few weeks back looking for one. I only came across a used one on ebay and the seller wanted an astronomical price. At this point I just want to get the thing going....well...stopping lol. Another reason I didn't want to order a new one for a 95 (aside from price for it and an MC to match) in the articles I read the booster is plug and play but the mounts are physically different even if the bolt locations on it and the fire wall match. I didn't want to order one and hope it would work with my existing mount. Trying to avoid the possible headache. However, had I found one in the yards I would have scooped it up quick.

And Max thank you too for your incite here. I didn't end up fiddling with the rod the other day. Like I said, with the engine off the pedal works as it should. It's with the engine on that everything is out of whack. So we'll see what happens. I ordered it this evening from RockAuto. They're based in Madison Wisconsin and I'm in Chicago. It's only a 3 hour drive so it shouldn't take more than a day to get here via FedEx. I'm sure it's going to take me a little bit to get it in and setup right once it does but when I'm done I'll update and let you guys know what happened.

[rocknjeep]

Hey guys, just stopping in with the update. I got the new booster in. I have to say the biggest PITA was connecting the pedal again. Anyway it still didn't fix the problem. I'm going to play around with the rod and adjust it some more to see if that does anything.

It did hold pressure again with the engine off but when I turn the beast over it loses it. Not all the way to the floor but still very close.

[rocknjeep]

AAAAAAALRIIIIIGHT! So I adjusted the rod a bunch of times and my brakes are freakin' back! I knew it was that booster all along. But I thank you guys for your input. It was invaluable. And besides, now everything is new lol.

New problem though. Max I'm hoping you can help. My brake lights don't work after hooking the pedal and stuff back up and I noticed a power loss when driving. When I stopped up back at the garage I caught a smell of something burning. Then I noticed what looked like smoke coming from my passenger side wheel. Looked like at the caliper. Just wanted to grab some thoughts before I start doing anything to it.

[rocknjeep]

bump. Hoping to hear from you guys soon.

[debord97]

Maybe you adjusted the rod a bit to much and it's causing the brake to drag? There is a switch on the steering column with a button switch that releases when you press the brake pedal. You may just need to adjust it to get your lights to working again. Some screw in to adjust and some slide.

[Mean Max]

Originally Posted by debord97

Maybe you adjusted the rod a bit to much and it's causing the brake to drag? There is a switch on the steering column with a button switch that releases when you press the brake pedal. You may just need to adjust it to get your lights to working again. Some screw in to adjust and some slide.

Exactly. The rod is adjusted too long & causing the brakes to drag.

The switch for the brake light circuit is easily adjusted. Push the pedal down by hand, and push the switch assembly towards the pedal arm. Then manually pull the pedal back up & it'll push the switch as far as it needs to be to work properly.

Max

[rocknjeep]

Alright so I got the switch all fixed up and the lights are working. I adjusted the rod to the optimum spot but that passenger side is still dragging. And once it gets going it makes I high pitched screech. I don't know if the rod is what's causing this. I'd think that both the front if not all of them would be dragging instead of just one.

[rocknjeep]

bumped

[Que89YJ]

Can you get up under the disk to the caliper and see if the caliper is sticking. You replaced it and the way I see it if they are all working except the one the caliper is sticking or the brake line is pinched and not allowing the fluid to bleed off when you release.

With the front wheels off, press firmly and release the brake pedal. Hop over to the wheel and verify it's dragging. Then open the bleeder screw, and see if the brakes release. If yes, you're looking at collapsed flex lines. If no, bad calipers.

[rocknjeep]

Thanks man, I'll test that out. I was also leaning towards a bad caliper. With the BS I went through with autozone during this entire thing I wouldn't be surprised if it was shot from the box. The story really is long but to make it short they've lost my business for good.

[rocknjeep]

Hey guys sorry I haven't updated. Since my last post things went south for me at work and I'm probably losing my job. So the Jeep hasn't been the #1 priority. Anyway, I took a look at the caliper and it seems to be operating normally. When my friend replaced the rubber lines to the calipers he had to put in some new hardline on the passenger side. Is it possible that this line is too long and creating the problem you think? I'll snap a couple pictures of the work for you guys to take a look at it.

[Que89YJ]

Sorry to hear about the job. The test will show if it is. Yes. The rubber lines could be collapsing and stop the fluid from returning.

[rocknjeep]

Well I'll snap the pics today and toss them up here for you to take a look at.