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Unread 02-03-2013, 04:19 PM   #1
animal0307
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Brakes are mushy but work.

First off. I am taking it in to be looked at. I just want to hear what other people may have to think.


This started when it got super cold then warm and super cold again last week. It feels like I have no assistance from the brake booster but my brakes are still working for the most part. I have to stand on them and they work. No pressure bleed off or leaks as far as I can tell. just a lot of work to stop. I cracked my brake res to look at the fluid and this is what I saw. I've already tried flushing the system. The right side it fresh clean fluid. I sucked out and wiped out all the crap I could from both sides and the left returned to that black color. I got the front flush and bled but I couldn't break the bleeders loose on the back so that's when I gave up and decided to take it in to be looked at. I've done some reading and people suggest everything from a flush to a bad seal or water in the booster. Not sure how I would go about testing the last one without just buying a new one.



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Unread 02-03-2013, 05:19 PM   #2
willawolfe
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May be as simple as needing a better job done bleeding them
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Unread 02-03-2013, 07:59 PM   #3
animal0307
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I couldn't bleed the backs as I couldn't get the bleeder to brake loose. They were seized with rust. But I'm concerned it's more than just needing flushed because it only happens below freezing.
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Unread 02-03-2013, 08:04 PM   #4
bluedeval03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by animal0307 View Post
I couldn't bleed the backs as I couldn't get the bleeder to brake loose. They were seized with rust. But I'm concerned it's more than just needing flushed because it only happens below freezing.
DOT3 brake fluid absorbs the humidity/water from the air. It is one thing that causes the discoloration of the fluid. Why it is recommended to completely replace brake fluid every x amount of miles and years.

From what your describing it could be the combination of very old contaminated fluid, and air in the lines. A shot of PB Blast on the bleeder screws over a couple of days will help them to break loose. If not, use a big pair of vise grips and have new bleeder screws to replace the old ones with. Then bleed and try
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Unread 02-03-2013, 09:18 PM   #5
animal0307
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I've shot them with some Sili Kroil and gave the vise grips a shot. I didn't want to mess them up too bad so I gave up to let the sili kroil do it's thing. Where would I get new bleeders from?
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Unread 02-03-2013, 10:16 PM   #6
ROTTEN
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I think you can get new bleeders at advance auto. The Site says they match my 94..


Dorman #12701 $12
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Unread 02-04-2013, 04:41 AM   #7
Mark05059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROTTEN View Post
I think you can get new bleeders at advance auto. The Site says they match my 94..


Dorman #12701 $12
twelve dollars for bleeder screws???? just buy the entire wheel cyls for 9.99 and take the screws out.. then you got 2 spare wheel cyls that you will need eventually
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Unread 02-04-2013, 06:05 AM   #8
Siva283
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twelve dollars for bleeder screws???? Just buy the entire wheel cyls for 9.99 and take the screws out.. Then you got 2 spare wheel cyls that you will need eventually
x2
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Unread 02-04-2013, 07:30 AM   #9
kjg26
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Is get some speed bleeders...they're one way valves. Allows you to bleed them by yourself without risking sucking air back in.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 08:15 AM   #10
ROTTEN
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Originally Posted by ROTTEN View Post
I think you can get new bleeders at advance auto. The Site says they match my 94..

Dorman #12701 $12
These are the speed bleeders.
You get 2!

He just wanted the bleeder
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Unread 02-04-2013, 09:02 AM   #11
jokerchief462
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The black you discussed in the original post may have some bearing on your problem. It is com=nsistent with worn and detriorating seals in the master cylinder.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 04:20 PM   #12
animal0307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Is get some speed bleeders...they're one way valves. Allows you to bleed them by yourself without risking sucking air back in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROTTEN View Post
These are the speed bleeders.
You get 2!

He just wanted the bleeder
I'll think about those next time if I have to do this again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jokerchief462 View Post
The black you discussed in the original post may have some bearing on your problem. It is com=nsistent with worn and detriorating seals in the master cylinder.
Not sure what it is. She is sitting at the shop right now. Hopefully I'll hear back from them tomorrow. Hope it won't cost an arm and a leg.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 06:06 PM   #13
JeremyCT
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Run the engine, shut it off. Depress the brake pedal a few times. How many pumps do you get before the pedal goes rock hard? If the answer is 0, your booster is shot/leaking.

You didn't let the reservoir go empty while you were bleeding, did you? Because the symptoms you describe makes it sound like you have air in the lines. It doesn't explain the black gunk, but it would explain the hard pedal.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 03:28 PM   #14
animal0307
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Took it to the shop and my rears brakes on both rides where shot. Paid way to much to have them replace the whole rear setup.

Also they thought that braking both handles on my driver's side door would make for a great bonus. Door wouldn't open so it seems they just keep on ripping on either handle. Didn't even both to tell me about it... My door doesn't like to unlock sometimes so that's why the interior panel is off. ****ing ****s.
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Unread 02-05-2013, 03:29 PM   #15
ROTTEN
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Go back there and give them hell!
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