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Unread 09-21-2013, 02:41 PM   #61
lander2312
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: White Bluff, TN
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Thanks, I appreciate everyone's help. Hopefully auto zone will have my pump so I can work on it tomorrow if not will have to order off the internet.

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Unread 09-21-2013, 02:50 PM   #62
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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You need to replace the pump but you need to make sure when you do that you recheck the pressure test immediately after. If you run the pump and you have a pinched return it will take out the new pump. It could indicate another problem. Just read Apollo, he covered it.
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Unread 09-21-2013, 03:45 PM   #63
Apollo12227
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Good luck!
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Unread 09-22-2013, 03:34 PM   #64
lander2312
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How do I know which pump I have...the plug or screw terminal one?
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Unread 09-22-2013, 04:20 PM   #65
Que89YJ
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Look up the pump on one of the auto parts web sites.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 05:28 PM   #66
lander2312
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Yeah they say both are listed for this 93 model....was trying to get it before I dropped the tank....I guess and took the plug type. In the middle of dropping the tank so let's hope its the right one.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 05:30 PM   #67
lander2312
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OK so you won't believe this crap...well maybe you will. I get the tank dropped and pull the sending unit. Inside of my tank looks filthy. I appears to have lots of metal shavings in it and also so huge hunks of rubber from some type of gasket I would guess. It also had a freaking hose clamp floating in it.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 05:42 PM   #68
atldude
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I'd be interested to hear about the shavings, had a little bit of those in mine when i dropped it earlier this year, i was thinking maybe the fuel dispenser rubbing the filler neck but i never got definitive answer. As far as the rubber stuff, there is a bushing of sorts on the end of the return line, not sure what purpose it serves but mine was all cracked and i took it out. Might be what u r seeing.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 06:12 PM   #69
lander2312
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I have drained the tank completely and will let it dry outside all day tomorrow...will then come in and vacuum it out to get it good and clean. While I wait there is some rust ares that i can only access while the tank is out. Will take this time to grind it out and paint it to hopefully stop it from spreading. Also the previous owner did the worst job in the wold with the rear differential gasket.....it look horrible so will probably replace the fluids and redo the gasket....with the tank out it makes it super easy to reach. Also the replacement pump I got at autozone is much smaller than the Bosch one that was in there...might look into getting one of those since I have read it is factory specs. Looks like i will have a few days before i re-install it.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 06:59 PM   #70
Que89YJ
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I thought that there might be more to the story. The fuel tank must be cleaned. The rubber in the bottom of the tank is from the pump. We have had a few discussions here about the effects of alcohol in the gas. Many people have had the same problem. Clean the tank. Make sure the hoses in the tank are in good shape and not too soft. The bowl in the bottom of the tank should just be removed. Replace the fuel filter if you haven't already.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 07:25 PM   #71
lander2312
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What do you mean by the bowl in the bottom Q? Is that the white plastic directly under the pump? Also what is your guys opinion of an after market pump vs. the Bosch one? It is visibly smaller but it has a one year warranty?
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Unread 09-22-2013, 07:34 PM   #72
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lander2312
What do you mean by the bowl in the bottom Q? Is that the white plastic directly under the pump? Also what is your guys opinion of an after market pump vs. the Bosch one? It is visibly smaller but it has a one year warranty?
Yes, he means the white plastic tray thing that the pump sits in. I chose to leave mine in, but many remove it thinking it will help keep tier fuel gauges accurate. They speculate that the tray warps and interferes with the fuel gauge float. In reality, my fuel tank was missing it an when I was below a 1/4 tank, I would stutter on long radial turns and harder right turns. I bought a used tank with one in it and haven't had an issue with that since. Truth be told, my fuel gauge hasn't worked right since the change and the 20 gal tank mod.

If Que says you don't need it on a YJ, I believe him. Just be careful taking it out. I think it's riveted to the tank. No holes.

Posted via my pretentious iPhone.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 07:47 PM   #73
lander2312
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Thanks Luuca...I will look at it tomorrow...once i vacuum it and get it good and clean. Will prob lean to leaving it in if taking it out might stress out the plastic tub...dont need anymore unexpected repairs. I have a ride to do this coming up weekend and with my limited experience I am not sure if i have the time and ability to even be ready for it now.
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Unread 09-22-2013, 07:54 PM   #74
lander2312
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Also what do you guys think about this product...it 3M and is only one step unlike the POR-15 multi step process.


Now In: Painting Supplies → Rust Prevention → 3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509
3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509

3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509

3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509

E-mail this product to a friend E-mail this product to a friend

SKU: 4945
Price: $12.59

Quantity:

Permanently Converts Rust and Readies for Primer and Topcoat

Chemically reacts to convert rust into a hard, black primer sealer
Apply on rusted surfaces and rust is permanently converted and ready for primer and topcoat
Water based latex containing rust modifiers, which is designed for application directly over tightly bonded rust on iron or steel
Also proven effective on new degreased or mild steel where flash-rusting has occured
Shortly after application, the rusted surface will change from white to purple to a stable black coating
Comes in a 10 oz. aerosol can
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Unread 09-22-2013, 09:09 PM   #75
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lander2312
Also what do you guys think about this product...it 3M and is only one step unlike the POR-15 multi step process. Now In: Painting Supplies → Rust Prevention → 3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509 3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509 3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509 3M Mar-Hyde One-Step Rust Converter - 3509 E-mail this product to a friend E-mail this product to a friend SKU: 4945 Price: $12.59 Quantity: Permanently Converts Rust and Readies for Primer and Topcoat Chemically reacts to convert rust into a hard, black primer sealer Apply on rusted surfaces and rust is permanently converted and ready for primer and topcoat Water based latex containing rust modifiers, which is designed for application directly over tightly bonded rust on iron or steel Also proven effective on new degreased or mild steel where flash-rusting has occured Shortly after application, the rusted surface will change from white to purple to a stable black coating Comes in a 10 oz. aerosol can
It's not a 1-step rust solution

It's Step 1 of a 3 part solution. If you read carefully, it preps a surface/flash rusted surface for primer and then top coat. If you're cleaning up rust on the tub and the frame, knock it down with a wire brush, grind it out till it's gone, then treat with Por-15 a few coats or try that stuff and then primer and paint. Paint is easier to touch up - specially the rattle can satin black. Posted via my pretentious iPhone.
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