I'm replacing a 3" BL with a Daystar 1". With all the bushings in, the front bushing has a 1/2" gap at the top. The old 3" bushing are all the same height but Daystar front bushing is a 1/2" shorter than the others. Am I missing something?
Finished replacing my stock body mounts with a prothane 1" body lift. Didn't have any problem with any bolts except the back two. Had to use my cutoff and peel the metal back like a can opener. I loosened my fan shroud per the instructions, but I checked after I lifted it, and the fan shroud didn't have to be moved, so I bolted it back up.
The only problem I am having is my jeep will not go in 2nd gear and wants to jump out of 4th. I read before that this was because the angles had changed but I am having trouble finding the thread now. I currently have a 2.5 inch skyjacker lift and a lowered transfer case. I'm thinking that I might need to raise my transfer case back up now, but the jeep rides much better with it lowered. I would think about a SYE but I would have to redo that if I switch axles unless I am mistaken, so I would like to hold off until I install a larger rear axle.
Anybody have any thoughts about the best way to regain 2nd?
1995 yj, 2.5l, 2 1/2 skyjacker lift, 1" shackle lift, 1" prothane body lift, 33 x 10.50 bfg ko, raptor lined tub, original owner
I thought I would try something new to get past cutting the hole for the captive nut. I got 1 out and I will see if I need to use it on the others. I drilled 1/4" away from the bolt through the nut pocket. I left the drill bit in to stop the captive nut from turning and racheted the bolt out. It might save grief and a few large holes in the floor.
Daryl, did this work for all locations, or did you just do the one?
I bought a set of canyon wheels with 31x10.5" mud terrains, not realizing that the stock suspension will not clear the tires. Now I'm getting ready to install a Prothane 1" body lift and have sprayed the bolts with PB Blaster (via drilled holes) for the last 6 days. I'm not looking forward trying the first bolt...
Yesterday afternoon, I attempted to loosen some of them. On the p-side, the bolt broke on the one behind the front seat, the others came out ok. On the d-side, the rear bumper and the one behind driver's seat broke; the others came out. I haven't attempted the ones near the gas tank on either side yet...will try today and report back.
UPDATE: The ones by the gas tank came out with little effort. I cut a flap on each side of the floor to get the two caged nuts behind the front seats out. I also cut a flap behind the d-side rear tire to get that caged nut out.
Last edited by grivera; 04-06-2012 at 09:45 PM..
Reason: Added update
One thing I experienced... there's a lip on the bottom front of the grille that sticks out forwards. Covering that is a piece of metal supporting the brake lines. All this is hidden under the plastic Jeep cover behind the bumper and in front of the grille. That lip hits up against the metal when the body is lifted. A simple cut-out of the metal where the lip extends will prevent the plate from bowing upwards.
I'm not sure if my '95 is the same, but the grill has metal piece that the body mount bolts to (is this the lip you're referring to?). This piece is heavy gauge
- it sticks out and draws the piece of metal supporting tbrake lines upward. Even without the protective piece in place, the "Jeep" labled plastic cover bows up in the center.
does anyone know the bolt sizes for the two rearmost mounts. I managed to get the first 9 bolts out but snapped the back two. I ended up drilling out the spot welds on the rear box channel, cutting a section of the back of the channel and folding the metal up and out of the way to get access to the square captive nut. The nuts were loose and just litfted out. I removed the stub of bolts, welded the square nut back in place, folded the metal back down and welded it all back up. Not sure if this is the best method but it worked for me. Now I just need two replacement bolts but what size?