Body Mount Bolt Locations (For BL) - Detailed Write-Up W/ Pix - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 05-06-2010, 07:05 PM   #61
Burnerman
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I sprayed mine for at least 3 months. I just sprayed into the existing holes in the body that are closest to the captive nut plates. Every week or so I put the breaker bar on and try to loosen them. If they didn't budge they got more PB. One by one they came out. Once I got them out I put anti-seize on them and ran them back in. PB Blaster + driving bumpy roads+ time = easy removal of body bolts. My son on the other hand sprayed his bolts and 2 days later sheared the rear 2 right off at the body. I used the air chisel and cut the side out of the "box" and removed the 1/4" steel plates. Welded a nut to the end of the bolt that was in the "box". Had to heat the plate up alot to break the rust bond and get the broken piece out. We put the plates back in and put in the new mounts. I welded up the holes. If you are thinking of doing a body lift or body mount replacement start spraying those bolts and drive!

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Unread 05-18-2010, 09:52 PM   #62
linusb
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I was lucky...all mine came out without any prep. But am now wondering about the sleeves which some report as missing???
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Unread 05-27-2010, 07:04 PM   #63
plym49
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One very important thing to keep in mind, perhaps, on the way back in: USE NEVER SEIZE!!!!

That way the bolts will come out whenever you need in the future.
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Unread 08-15-2010, 02:20 PM   #64
spshultz
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I just finished up removing my body mount bolts for a 1" body lift that I'll do later on in the year. They all came out fine except for the rear two. They just snapped with no effort. The rust was so bad the middle part of the bolt was about 1/4 of the size of the rest of the bolt. I don't get why these are so bad when a few others are more exposed to the elements than these?

Anyway, I'm hoping I can get a hole saw up in there and get those capture nuts out. Anyone have any pics of the hole(s) they had to cut there? I'd hate to accidentally drill through any wires that may be inside those boxes.
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Unread 08-15-2010, 02:24 PM   #65
hotelconucc93
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Personally I would not take the capture nuts out if you can avoid it, but drill the bolts out and get them out of the nut saving as much thread as you can. Then overside tap and set with next size up bolt.

Personal choice.
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Unread 08-15-2010, 05:37 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spshultz View Post
I just finished up removing my body mount bolts for a 1" body lift that I'll do later on in the year. They all came out fine except for the rear two. They just snapped with no effort. The rust was so bad the middle part of the bolt was about 1/4 of the size of the rest of the bolt. I don't get why these are so bad when a few others are more exposed to the elements than these?

Anyway, I'm hoping I can get a hole saw up in there and get those capture nuts out. Anyone have any pics of the hole(s) they had to cut there? I'd hate to accidentally drill through any wires that may be inside those boxes.
If you are refering the furthest rear nuts, Use a 2 1/2 " hole saw, Pull out the capture nuts, and either drill and tap them, or make new ones. (what I did)...
054.jpg  
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Unread 08-15-2010, 06:26 PM   #67
Firefyter-Emt
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Just wondering... There are many hole plugs that can be bought to push into a 2" hole made by a hole saw. Anyone ever just put some hole plugs in after drilling out the holes??

I plan on doing the 1" ploy mount life one of these days, and when I do, I might just turn new sleeves on my lathe. If I remember right, the mount gives you little filler pipe to add to your stock sleeves, right? If so, I will just make new sleeves to properly fit the mounts and bolts. Extra work, but not too bad really.
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Unread 11-28-2010, 09:17 AM   #68
91wranglerwilly
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do you have to put bushings on when you put a BL? anyone know anywhere that sells just the bushings?
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Unread 11-28-2010, 02:53 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91wranglerwilly View Post
do you have to put bushings on when you put a BL? anyone know anywhere that sells just the bushings?
Morris 4x4 has a decent amount of part. Body Mounting Kit*52002723K by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center
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Unread 02-21-2011, 11:28 PM   #70
dwar
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3" bl

I purchased my 92 YJ, 4.0L w/auto and it came with a 3" BL. I would like to replace the 3" BL with a 1" BL, but I don't know if there is anything else I need replace because of the BL height (ie. radiator mount, tranny, etc..) Thanks!
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Unread 03-05-2011, 06:46 PM   #71
pointech
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I finally got the 1" Daystar body mount kit and installed it today. Luckily I had this thread to prepare me for what might be. I was lucky...my Jeep is still clean and the body bolts came out after a few PB Blaster treatments. I bought it from amazon.com, there price was as good as anyone and it was free shipping.

Someone in another thread asked about the spacers on each end of the grill. I thought I would post this here in case it helps someone else. On my 1994 YJ they were held in place by bolts size T-30. Put them in when you have the body up! I had to loosen other bolts and jack mine up again to get them in place.

Question: I have a problem with the mounts right in front of the gas tank. The bolts don't seem long enough - the lower poly piece doesn't sit in the spacer like it seems it should. I'll look at them again tomorrow in the daylight, but I'm wondering if anyone else had had this issue?

Thanks all for the great thread!
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Unread 03-06-2011, 01:50 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pointech View Post
Question: I have a problem with the mounts right in front of the gas tank. The bolts don't seem long enough - the lower poly piece doesn't sit in the spacer like it seems it should. I'll look at them again tomorrow in the daylight, but I'm wondering if anyone else had had this issue?
I figured this out - there were the remains of a washer rusted to the body. Once I took a better look I realized there was something I needed to pry off.

New question: Just went for my test drive and the steering has more resistance. It also doesn't recenter itself without help. Maybe my steering shaft is unhappy? I looked at it briefly and it is rusty but otherwise looked OK. I sprayed it with some MPL at the joints. Is there something else steering related that I might need to check after this install? Anything in the steering column?
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Unread 03-06-2011, 02:20 PM   #73
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"New question: Just went for my test drive and the steering has more resistance. It also doesn't recenter itself without help. Maybe my steering shaft is unhappy? I looked at it briefly and it is rusty but otherwise looked OK. I sprayed it with some MPL at the joints. Is there something else steering related that I might need to check after this install? Anything in the steering column?"


I have not done the body lift yet but will do it soon. From what I have read on the forums, when you do a body lift, the steering shaft telescoping arm needs to be functional, i.e., needs to extend. If not you will end up binding the joints at either or both ends. You also risk having the steering shaft pop off from the lower bearing if it does not extend. You could have this happen when you are out wheeling and having everything flex except for the shaft.

Having it rusty is a good sign that it is stuck. Either remove it and try to unstick it or get a new shaft. I would just get a new shaft which would give you tight u-joints on it in case you have a little sloppy steering. Also replace the lower shaft bearing while you are in there. Good luck.
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Unread 03-06-2011, 03:45 PM   #74
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Thanks NavyAg. Sounds like a plan.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 08:11 PM   #75
cbl600r
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Been soaking for 2 weeks. Broke one of the rears already. Got a feeling I will be using a hole saw on a few of them. I am going to a friend's auto shop this weekend to tackle the whole job. I will post the results.
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