Body Mount Bolt Locations (For BL) - Detailed Write-Up W/ Pix - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > Body Mount Bolt Locations (For BL) - Detailed Write-Up W/ Pix

Savvy FOX IFP 4" Lift Shocks in StockSavvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsSavvy Aluminum Gas Tank Skid

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Unread 03-25-2009, 09:53 AM   #16
srf4life
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Thanks for the write-up and all the tips. I will be installing my 1inch BL sometime in April. So this gives me plenty of time to "prep" the tub and the bolts with PB Blaster.

My only concern prior to this write-up was where were all the body mount points. Excellent job and thanks!!!

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Unread 03-25-2009, 10:17 AM   #17
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writeup added to FAQ.
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Unread 03-25-2009, 07:15 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
I loosen all 11 body bolts first, then remove the front one under the radiator and the 5 along one side or the other, leaving the 5 on the other side still threaded in, but loose. This keeps the tub from shifting out of place.

I usually take the gas filler neck plastic off & then reinstall after the lift to avoid cracking the plastic, the hoses should have enough play in them.

I use a board under the rocker panel to distribute the weight so it doesn't distort the metal from having all the weight in one place.

I use a 1" motor mount lift to keep the fan in line with the radiator shroud, but you don't have to. You can relocated the shroud down 1" instead.

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That's what I did....Worked fine.
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Unread 04-18-2009, 07:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
I loosen all 11 body bolts first, then remove the front one under the radiator and the 5 along one side or the other, leaving the 5 on the other side still threaded in, but loose. This keeps the tub from shifting out of place.

I usually take the gas filler neck plastic off & then reinstall after the lift to avoid cracking the plastic, the hoses should have enough play in them.

I use a board under the rocker panel to distribute the weight so it doesn't distort the metal from having all the weight in one place.

I use a 1" motor mount lift to keep the fan in line with the radiator shroud, but you don't have to. You can relocated the shroud down 1" instead.

Max
The only thing to add, is that my kit came with two additional rubber bumpers. they were for the front and go on either side of the front body mount. they just screw into the body/front.

I just did my 1" lift today, but forgot these two. I'll unzip it all tomorrow and add them. I also had a rear bold not unscrew. snapped the head off, so I cut it down and then cut a small 2x3" window inside the fender space to get out that tab and will replace with washers and nut.
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Unread 04-18-2009, 07:42 PM   #20
CheapSunglasses
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruskin View Post
I just did my 1" lift today, but forgot these two. I'll unzip it all tomorrow and add them. I also had a rear bold not unscrew. snapped the head off, so I cut it down and then cut a small 2x3" window inside the fender space to get out that tab and will replace with washers and nut.
Check post # 13....Same thing happened to me, but I snapped both rear bolts.
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Unread 04-25-2009, 08:38 AM   #21
Rustbucket83
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Without researching first I figured that My IR Titanium would bust these loose no prob,
but they all spun, So Am I pretty much screwed into hole sawing and welding to use the BL?
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Unread 04-25-2009, 08:53 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustbucket83 View Post
Without researching first I figured that My IR Titanium would bust these loose no prob,
but they all spun, So Am I pretty much screwed into hole sawing and welding to use the BL?
Yep.

Your IR impact spun the "captive nuts" in their captive sheetmetal "cage" and now they're spinning.

Behind driver's seat by roll bar main hoop.


Front edge of driver's seat.


Cargo area.

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Unread 04-25-2009, 01:23 PM   #23
Que89YJ
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Captive nuts

I thought I would try something new to get past cutting the hole for the captive nut. I got 1 out and I will see if I need to use it on the others. I drilled 1/4" away from the bolt through the nut pocket. I left the drill bit in to stop the captive nut from turning and racheted the bolt out. It might save grief and a few large holes in the floor.
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Unread 04-29-2009, 08:22 AM   #24
Rustbucket83
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Cool thanks for the pics and I will try the drill bit trick first then the Hole saw
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Unread 05-07-2009, 08:53 AM   #25
Rustbucket83
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Ok so I gave up on reusing the body mount points and cut them with a Torch,
after spending 3 hrs trying to get them loose I broke three, spun three more and got
a couple to come out.
I went to what I did with My old Cj and Welded blocks that I made as lift mounts.
3" blocks netted me 2" BL with my 1 1/2" shackles and 1" flare trim.
Essentially a Poor man's 4.5" lift for 33's.
No rubbing and nothing bad with the ride happened instead I noticed it a Bit Tighter.
If anyone is considering doing a body lift this way I caution you as it IS permanent for the most part.
I don't plan on changing my stuff anytime soon so it worked
well for me.

Thought I would add to this thread in case anyone is already where I was, Stuck.
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Last edited by Rustbucket83; 05-07-2009 at 08:55 AM.. Reason: didn't include something
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Unread 05-07-2009, 10:56 AM   #26
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One thing I experienced... there's a lip on the bottom front of the grille that sticks out forwards. Covering that is a piece of metal supporting the brake lines. All this is hidden under the plastic Jeep cover behind the bumper and in front of the grille. That lip hits up against the metal when the body is lifted. A simple cut-out of the metal where the lip extends will prevent the plate from bowing upwards.
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Unread 05-16-2009, 02:19 PM   #27
georgem
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I'm going to try this too

Thanks for all the great posts and pictures. I'm trying to replace stock rubber with 0" lift poly bushings. (I'm keeping this 95 YJ stock height at least for a while). I guess I'll plan on getting a hole saw, as it seems to be the simplest solution, plus it will let me spray rust chemicals into those channels on the bottom of the tub.
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Unread 10-16-2009, 06:21 AM   #28
hotelconucc93
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For those captive nut spin problems, I was able to counter that with down pressure.

That is, I had one of my kids place a crowbar on the lip of the bolt that I was IR'ing, and pry it down towards the ground as it spun. This was a pain at first, but the down pressure on the bolt squeezes the spinning plate above on the frame tight, with friction as the bolt works out.

I did this when installing a step rail on each side. Now, that the rail is there, i was taking them off yesterday for my rebuild and didn't need the prybar. I just pulled down hard on the bar while the spin was happening and got the same effect.
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Unread 10-20-2009, 08:17 PM   #29
jeepinhuda
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i was looking to do a bl in a couple of months with rocker gaurds. does anyone know a good point to jack it up so i can put the rockers on the body mounts at the same time?
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Unread 10-23-2009, 09:39 AM   #30
ROADDOG516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by georgem View Post
Thanks for all the great posts and pictures. I'm trying to replace stock rubber with 0" lift poly bushings. (I'm keeping this 95 YJ stock height at least for a while). I guess I'll plan on getting a hole saw, as it seems to be the simplest solution, plus it will let me spray rust chemicals into those channels on the bottom of the tub.
I know you posted this quite awhile ago but were you able to get this done fairly easy? Im looking to do the same add polys with no lift just to replace worn out stock mounts.
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