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Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4w

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Unread 02-12-2009, 11:02 AM   #1
Mean Max
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Body Lift carnage, and how to avoid it!

I have installed 4 or 5 of the Daystar poly mount lifts. Both of our YJ's have them, and I installed the others in YJ's/TJ's/LJ's for other people as well. There is no sign of any sagging (or other issues) in any of the kits I've installed. The only recommendation I have is that you use the black mounts. I have the "red" mounts in my '91 YJ and the rear corner ones have faded to an orange color. This appears to be limited to that ones that are colored, as all the rest are black kits & they still look like new.

From all I've heard, the Prothane kit is pretty much the same kit, and works equally well.

Here is some advice for installing your new body lift, regardless of which brand you choose.

Below is a "cut & paste" copy of a reply I've made in a few posts, concerning the body lift installation you're considering.


Regardless of whether you are installing a body lift, or just changing out the cruddy stock mounts that are broken, here is something that may help. It's something I've learned over the years, the hard way, naturally.


I've installed a half dozen or so body lifts on YJ's & TJ's. I found a simple little trick using the PB Blaster that will save a lot of time & aggravation. Spraying just the heads of the bolts won't help. If you look at the 11 body mounts, there is one under the radiator support and then 10 (5 along each side) on the frame rails, starting behind the front wheels. The forward-most mounts can be sprayed near the threads by removing a plastic shield & spraying the nut area. Moving rearward, the next three body bolt nuts are in-accessible, under the floorboards. Inside the Jeep, locate the area of the floor right above each body mount & drill a tiny hole in the floor just big enough to get the spray can straw in, and spray generously. Lastly, the ones in the rear corners of the tub can be accessed by removing the plastic shield under the body's rear corner. Look above the mount and you'll see that the body nut area is boxed in with sheet metal. Again, drill a tiny hole & spray liberally.

Do this daily for about a week prior to the body lift install, and things will go much smoother! The holes can be filled with just a small bit of RTV sealer later.

I learned this the hard way, after breaking several body bolts in my '91 YJ.

If you have any reservations about drilling small holes in your floor, here is how big of a hole you'll need to dig out the body nut after the bolt breaks!

Here are some pics of how I cut mine out, using a 2" hole saw. I dug the captive body nuts out, and then used washers & nuts on the body bolts.

In front of driver's seat


Behind driver's seat


Cargo area


Hope this helps!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 02-12-2009, 11:06 AM   #2
jeepnphreak
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Thanks for the write up.
its the little things that help a project go more smoothly.
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Unread 02-12-2009, 11:36 AM   #3
ZeroGravity
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That's awesome. I couldn't install mine because I was having trouble with the cargo area mounts. THe PO tried to install new bushings, and got some of them. When he broke the bolts, he sawzalled the tub to piece and re bolt then. He broke off the captive nuts in the very rear and didn't even re-bolt them!

One questions: The cargo area captive nuts, are those located at the same spot the seat belt is anchored?

Great pictures!
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Unread 02-12-2009, 11:45 AM   #4
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringwood View Post
One questions: The cargo area captive nuts, are those located at the same spot the seat belt is anchored?
No, but very close to it. In that picture, the seat belt is still bolted to the floor, so you can see the relationship of the nut to the belt. It didn't show up in the picture too well, but if you look along the floor & the base of the inner wheel well of your cargo area, you will see that the floor of the sheet metal actually has a specific stamped area right above the captive nuts.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 02-12-2009, 12:35 PM   #5
ZeroGravity
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
No, but very close to it. In that picture, the seat belt is still bolted to the floor, so you can see the relationship of the nut to the belt. It didn't show up in the picture too well, but if you look along the floor & the base of the inner wheel well of your cargo area, you will see that the floor of the sheet metal actually has a specific stamped area right above the captive nuts.

Ok. I see that stamping now too. I didn't know if I was missing something.

Now I need a time machine. I'll print this out, and sent it along to my previous owner so he doesn't hack my future body tub to pieces.
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Unread 02-12-2009, 12:38 PM   #6
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringwood View Post
Ok. I see that stamping now too. I didn't know if I was missing something.

Now I need a time machine. I'll print this out, and sent it along to my previous owner so he doesn't hack my future body tub to pieces.
If you had a time machine, you could just find him and him & take the Jeep away from him because he doesn't deserve it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 02-12-2009, 02:09 PM   #7
gabulldogs
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look at my same pics that i cut yesterday under thread "lift pics"
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Unread 02-12-2009, 02:12 PM   #8
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabulldogs View Post
look at my same pics that i cut yesterday under thread "lift pics"
I did, and I saw that you had done basically the same thing. It looks like it worked out good for you!

I wanted to get my pics up yesterday, but I didn't get it done until this morning.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 02-12-2009, 09:05 PM   #9
millermania
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body lift

thanks for the info
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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:22 AM   #10
erockz
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EXcellent idea. I'll be doing mine soon. Thanks for the tips.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 11:42 AM   #11
hesserdude07
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perfect pics and Very good info. Had to do this cut trick to mine as my bolts broke. PB for a week and even heat when removing... I have the 1" poly replacement kit from Daystar, best body lift i ever put in!
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Unread 04-04-2010, 08:28 PM   #12
joshbaker92yj
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Wow i feel lucky now because mine all came out quite well all 3 times they came out. once for the poly 1", once for the frame swap, and once for the 3" bl. Oh i guess 4 times because i removed the 3" and put the 1" back on.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 09:28 AM   #13
waterlovr
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Great tips. Very helpful on my lift.
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Unread 08-24-2010, 12:30 PM   #14
mikes92jeepyj
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Very helpful on my jeep. Thanks for the wright up on this
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Unread 08-24-2010, 03:40 PM   #15
tanman2003
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daystar body lift grill bushing extentions

What is the smartest way to get these grill bushing things off? the rubber pieces on each end of the grill.

remove the headlight? remove the grill? cut the dang thing?
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