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Unread 08-30-2014, 08:03 AM   #46
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunHo198 View Post
My front view.
Overheating issues at all?

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Unread 08-30-2014, 09:45 AM   #47
ghetdjc320
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Doesn't the xj pump spin the opposite direction as the yj pump?
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Unread 08-30-2014, 11:39 AM   #48
Louie4
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Originally Posted by ghetdjc320 View Post
Doesn't the xj pump spin the opposite direction as the yj pump?
No. Both pumps had "R" stamped into the impeller indicating a reverse rotation. I made sure of that before I installed it.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 11:53 AM   #49
ghetdjc320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4
No. Both pumps had "R" stamped into the impeller indicating a reverse rotation. I made sure of that before I installed it.
Cool. It seemed a little obvious but you never know
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Unread 08-30-2014, 12:05 PM   #50
mike134
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Did you try my water thing?? I had viewgraphs and everything!
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Unread 08-30-2014, 01:52 PM   #51
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134
Did you try my water thing?? I had viewgraphs and everything!
I haven't yet. I actually have no idea what my mixture is. I usually buy a gallon of straight antifreeze pour half into another empty jug then add but it's been a while since I drained it. I think I'm going to look for a full size fan and if I find one I'll take the radiator out to mount it and put the correct mix in. Your graphs were impressive by the way. I had no idea antifreeze lowered the amount of heat if can absorb.

One thing that comes to mind is the boiling point of antifreeze. Does it raise as a mixture? I know the cap does. What is the least amount of antifreeze/water solution I can run in terms of concentration? I'm pretty sure NC sees freezing temps but single digits are rare.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 02:30 PM   #52
mike134
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There's a graph for that too! But the summer is when your having your problems (with little chance of freezing). Of course it would be annoying to change mixtures for different seasons. Here is a chart for mixing water with AMSOL Propylene Glycerol type antifreeze:




For your purpose, I would say open the petcock to let some of the coolant out of the radiator and then pour in some distilled water. It doesn't have to be totally precise, just take about 3 quarts out and then top it off with distilled water. If this works, then you can decide whether you still want a new radiator or if you're just going to add more coolant before winter comes around.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 06:37 PM   #53
Chrisnvegas
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Like water, air follows the path of least resistance. Is the fan shroud allowing air to escape the cooling fins? Plastic tanks are inefficient. They provide pretty much no additional cooling compared to metal tanks. Yes, metal tanks do exchange heat.

This site is a wealth of information on cooling systems.
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/technical_articles.htm

I think you need a better radiator and more airflow. It takes more HP to move our bricks through the air at highway speeds. HP equals BTU's

Get rid of some more BTU's
I wouldn't go multiple row radiator unless I was going to change the water pump to a higher flow rate to match.

Balance. Cooling systems are all about balance.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 08:04 PM   #54
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas
Like water, air follows the path of least resistance. Is the fan shroud allowing air to escape the cooling fins? Plastic tanks are inefficient. They provide pretty much no additional cooling compared to metal tanks. Yes, metal tanks do exchange heat. This site is a wealth of information on cooling systems. http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/technical_articles.htm I think you need a better radiator and more airflow. It takes more HP to move our bricks through the air at highway speeds. HP equals BTU's Get rid of some more BTU's I wouldn't go multiple row radiator unless I was going to change the water pump to a higher flow rate to match. Balance. Cooling systems are all about balance.
So you're saying better fan/shroud coverage and a better radiator? My radiator now looks to have a 1-1.25 aluminum single core. I would think it could have more. My fan and shroud does not cover the whole radiator so that could be an issue.
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Unread 08-30-2014, 09:05 PM   #55
Chrisnvegas
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If it's a Taurus fan, it probably moves enough air. I would fabricate something and tighten up the shroud forr full coverage. If it's still running hot after that, I would change the radiator to one with metal tanks and a fin count of 12 to 15 fins per inch. Higher fin counts might sound better but they slow air flow. 12 to 15 is a good balance.

Multiple row radiators are good if you have a high enough flow water pump (65 gpm) But that will be pretty much re engineering your whole cooling system.

I'm figuring shroud losses of 10 percent plus another 10% for plastic tanks. Change those and gain an additional 20% of cooling capacity. 20% more will most likely solve you problems and bring your cooling system into a lower temp equilibrium. Right now your equilibrium is too high. (the point where your cooling system find it's ceiling)

A high pressure cap not only raises the boiling point but also helps prevent localized boiling and hot spots inside the cooling passages. I run a stock Mopar 16 lb. They are good caps. Mopar part number 3781830. Look for NOS on e-bay.

Desert racers run 35 lbs and raise the boiling point to 290. It's not the 230 degrees that wrecks the motor, it's the internal boiling where the air bubbles provide no heat exchange in the water passages and it becomes a runaway freight train after that.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 12:02 AM   #56
GunHo198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4
Overheating issues at all?
My radiator is a full aluminum single core radiator. I run 210 at 65 mph. But after that, the faster I go the higher the temp. I may have some clogging. I plan on going with a larger 3 core radiator when the funds are available. It did well for my sons TJ. But beings cooler weather is coming I may wait till spring.

Also I run a mechanical fan and a small electric fan as a pusher.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 07:43 AM   #57
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For highway driving you are way better off with the stock fan and shroud setup. The elect fan mods are for crawling and water crossings. They do not allow the airflow at speed (on or not) that you get with the stock setup.

If you are going to block more than half of the airflow to your cooling system with that huge bumper wart, you really need to add additional airflow from somewhere. Rovers accomplished this with a chin scoop under the bumper, might help you as well.

You can also cheaply increase cooling capacity by adding additional heater cores (1 or more) to the heater hoses. For one or more, fab up some air scoops to direct ram air across them, the faster you go, the more BTUs you will dump.

And I am sure everyone remembers to turn the heater on HOT and fan to max when starting to overheat, right? This works on everything with a heater.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 07:44 AM   #58
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My jeep runs hot when I drive highway speeds. I've just chalked it up to the motor being loose and tired. I solved the problem by switching to sticky tires so no more highway driving. Lol

For the shroud, I've been thinking about grabbing one of the aluminum shrouds from summit or speedway to use for my Volvo fan. I'm also running one of the cheaper all aluminum radiators. It's been great for a few years now. No leaks, no issues. I would prefer to have a Multi core version, but not enough to replace the one I already have.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 07:51 AM   #59
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
For highway driving you are way better off with the stock fan and shroud setup. The elect fan mods are for crawling and water crossings. They do not allow the airflow at speed (on or not) that you get with the stock setup.

Coincidentally, the whole purpose I went to an electric fan was for crawling. The mechanical thermal fan clutches just wouldn't hold up to keep the engine cool. For crawling it's great, high speeds is lacking. Maybe I'm wrong for wanting the best of both worlds.

If you are going to block more than half of the airflow to your cooling system with that huge bumper wart, you really need to add additional airflow from somewhere. Rovers accomplished this with a chin scoop under the bumper, might help you as well.

You can also cheaply increase cooling capacity by adding additional heater cores (1 or more) to the heater hoses. For one or more, fab up some air scoops to direct ram air across them, the faster you go, the more BTUs you will dump.

I've contemplated adding an additional heater core. I've even seen a Cherokee with one mounted to the hood and a small electric fan pulling air through. Seemed nifty and necessary since that guy lived in the Southwest.

And I am sure everyone remembers to turn the heater on HOT and fan to max when starting to overheat, right? This works on everything with a heater.

See post #1. Keeping the defrost on low kept my temps under 220. I didn't want to put too much of an electrical load given my fan was on the high speed so I kept the blower on low unless I needed it.
I'm going to check the jy today for a Taurus/Volvo/Thunderbird/Mark VIII fan with the proper coverage. As posted earlier, my shroud doesn't cover the lower 3-4" of my radiator.

Thanks to all for the input. It is much appreciated.
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Unread 08-31-2014, 08:31 AM   #60
Chrisnvegas
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I still have the stock cooling system. Stock meaning Mopar brand everything. I wheeled and crawled last weekend and it was over 100 d. Had no problems cooling. The stock fan move some serious air.
I also had to tow a huge lifted K-5 Blazer (4500 lbs) about 60 miles down the highway when his alternator locked up and wrecked his belt. No heat problems. (what a heavy son of a...)
These Jeeps did not leave the dealership overheating under ANY circumstances. Crawling or not. Problems arose when parts got old and were replaced with aftermarket crap. No one wants to pay the dealership prices and now, many parts are discontinued. I think I got one of the last Mopar fan clutches. The rest are garbage.

Many of the threads on this forum are because people have installed questionable quality parts instead of OEM.

"I'm having trouble with my fuel pump again"
Oh really?
If possible stick with Mopar for your engine.
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