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Unread 08-26-2014, 09:18 PM   #16
GrantYJ
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Hey Lou, sorry to hear about the problems.

How old is the radiator cap? Honestly, I doubt that it's the problem, but it never hurts to throw a new one on.

As you know, mine doesn't give me any problems at all (my '92 also has an 8274 mounted the same way but with the added restrictions of a CJ grill); however, mine is a multi core (custom built radiator with brass ends) and a 4 banger. Even with a single core and the 6 cylinder, I just don't see the 8274 making "that much" of a difference. I've run these winches on CJ's with single cores and V8's and not had problems. Sure, it's blocking some air, but it shouldn't be enough to cause the problems that you're having.

My initial thought (because it doesn't heat up on trails or in town) was a water pump. Since yours is new, I wonder if you might have either a catalytic converter problem or maybe even a head gasket issue? If you're having a loss of power, I'd lean toward the cat.

I also can't help but remember that your floorboards got hot (crazy hot) while you were pulling the trailer while relocating. This could also be a symptom of a clogged cat (or even a section of crushed pipe) ...of course, the heat could have also caused a head gasket to fail.

I wish I could be more help. I feel like I've just sent you down more rabbit holes. If it were mine doing this, I'd throw a new cap on and check for crushed sections of exhaust pipe. If nothing changed, I'd pull the winch and monitor it. If it goes completely back to normal, I'd get a multi core radiator. If it's still running on the warm side, you know you've got a problem. At that point, I'd probably throw in a new water pump, thermostat (the thermostats with the safety hole seem to fail more often), and radiator (I'm assuming that the water pump and radiator are both under warranty, so you'd just be out the cost of coolant and the thermostat). If it's still acting up, I'd pull the cat and throw a straight pipe (just temporarily for diagnostics) in it's place. Somewhere in the middle of all that, it'd probably be prudent to look for signs of a bad head gasket.

Cooling problems can be a bear to track down. Good luck and keep us posted.

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Unread 08-26-2014, 10:28 PM   #17
Drednot
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Man....looking at that pic, I still think the winch is the main culprit. Around town, the fan sucks the air around behind it, but at top speed, all that area forms a low pressure area behind it as it forces the air up and to the sides. Take it off temporarily and do a hwy lap and see for sure.

The hood louvres won't interfere with your hi lift as they don't belong up there. They go down in front just behind the radiator. Open your hood while the fan is blasting. Feel with your hand at hood level for the strongest hot air blast....that's where you cut your mounting holes.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 10:37 PM   #18
Drednot
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Just for experiment sake, before you unmount the winch, take off your headlight bezels, and do a hwy lap like that and see if you get cooler temps.

If you could pare down the winch mount frontal area, and relocate the electric box, that will help a little.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 10:51 PM   #19
GunHo198
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My son had over heating issues on his TJ. We kept flushing out the rust in his system, but the radiator was too clogged. So we replaced it with a bigger Full aluminum radiator 2 3/4 off of eBay for $155.00 shipped. It was a tight fit, but his doesn't budge over 190 on the highway now. I have the M8274 winch on my YJ and it sits at 210+ on the highway at 70 mph. I think I'll be swapping to a bigger radiator soon.
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Unread 08-26-2014, 10:59 PM   #20
GunHo198
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Also you shouldn't use silicone as a gasket for your water pump or your thermostat neck. Always use a paper gasket. The excess silicone can travel through your system and get trapped in your radiator and cause some clogging in the cores slowing the water flow down. I don't know anyway of getting it out.
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Unread 08-28-2014, 08:51 AM   #21
Louie4
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I also should mention I want to have A/C as well. I just need to have it filled. With that in mind I think a bigger radiator is necessary and a decent one at that, not the Autozone special.

Any recommendations for a 3 core brass radiator?
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Unread 08-28-2014, 01:18 PM   #22
GunHo198
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Aluminum cools faster than brass.... eBay. $158.00 free shipping, 2 3/4, 3 core radiator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271538176511
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Unread 08-28-2014, 01:50 PM   #23
ghetdjc320
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I have a single core spectre radiator but i'm running the Jet 190* thermostat and a GMB high flow pump. My engine never gets over 195* and thats in central texas heat. Stock fan
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Unread 08-28-2014, 01:53 PM   #24
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunHo198 View Post
Aluminum cools faster than brass.... eBay. $158.00 free shipping, 2 3/4, 3 core radiator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271538176511
It can cost you more than that for the tow home if you put a branch through the rad off road... At least a brass and copper rad can be trail fixed. We do week long deep bush runs and it is seldom that someone doesn't need a spot or two of solder, including a tree right through dead center on one.

He and a buddy if he has one would be wasting a vacation day getting a new aluminium one on each of those trips.

When mine was getting on, I took it to a local rad shop and had it recored. They used different shaped cores and fins and told me I should get a 20% improvement in cooling. According to my temp gauge, they were right too. I have a warn HS9000i winch with 2 Hella black magic lights on the top of the fairlead. A fair blockage....
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Unread 08-28-2014, 03:11 PM   #25
bgredjeep
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Time to chop out the frame crossmember and sink that winch down between the frame rails. I sometimes forget how big the 8274 is, and the huge mount plates don't do you any favors either.
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Unread 08-28-2014, 04:44 PM   #26
whiteyj1994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GunHo198
Aluminum cools faster than brass.... eBay. $158.00 free shipping, 2 3/4, 3 core radiator. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271538176511
No it does not. Brass and copper both absorb and transfer heat at a much higher rate than aluminum does. The thermal conductivity or heat transfer rate of brass/ copper is 92% versus aluminum which is approximately 49%.
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Unread 08-28-2014, 05:00 PM   #27
jbolty
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Do you have room for a 3 row? I have a two row and the water pump bolts are thisclose to the Taurus housing.

I get hot on the highway sometimes going up a long hill and kick the fan on high, which does help.

Normally there is no need for a fan at all at freeway speed but I think with the turbulence caused by the winch having the Taurus running full blast probably does a good job at steering the air in.
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Unread 08-28-2014, 05:13 PM   #28
mike134
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Originally Posted by whiteyj1994 View Post
No it does not. Brass and copper both absorb and transfer heat at a much higher rate than aluminum does. The thermal conductivity or heat transfer rate of brass/ copper is 92% versus aluminum which is approximately 49%.
The correct order is:
Diamond (fastest)
Copper
Aluminum
Brass
Steel
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Unread 08-28-2014, 05:40 PM   #29
Luuca
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Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
The waterpump is a new one I got that fits a Cherokee. It has a flat flange for the waterpump pulley giving me more fan clearance.
This interests me. You said earlier that at higher speeds, you heat up, yet under the same ambient temps you are fine crawling.

I'm wondering if the blade pitch of the XJ Water pump as well as the Circumference of the flat flange water pump pulley are the issue.

At higher RPMS constantly, you may be not moving as much fluid due to the blades spinning too fast if the pulley is smaller than your stock size, even by just a 1/4 inch. This would be a benefit at lower rpms or short bursts of rpms while wheeling, but a definite drawback at higher speeds.

You may just be causing your cooling system to become less efficient at sustained high speeds - ie, not moving enough fluid. If your impeller is spinning at a rate that, due to it's pitch, creates a situation werein you are at low operational efficiency, the liquid doesn't move well.
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Unread 08-28-2014, 06:17 PM   #30
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drednot View Post
Just for experiment sake, before you unmount the winch, take off your headlight bezels, and do a hwy lap like that and see if you get cooler temps.

If you could pare down the winch mount frontal area, and relocate the electric box, that will help a little.
I may relocate the solenoid box but I most likely won't take the winch off unless I plan to do work on the front end. It's not my daily driver and I rarely go on long trips but I don't want to be hindered at highway speeds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GunHo198 View Post
Aluminum cools faster than brass.... eBay. $158.00 free shipping, 2 3/4, 3 core radiator.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271538176511
I thought about aluminum but I would prefer brass. I've had to pinch and crimp brass cores before and it barely leaked afterwards. I don't have experience with aluminum but I feel it may not have the same qualities depending on the heat treatment of the metal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
Time to chop out the frame crossmember and sink that winch down between the frame rails. I sometimes forget how big the 8274 is, and the huge mount plates don't do you any favors either.
I'm debating this. I just need to figure out what to do with the steering box. Maybe build around it and see if the winch will fit in between. I don't see a need for it to be dead center, just close.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Do you have room for a 3 row? I have a two row and the water pump bolts are thisclose to the Taurus housing.

I get hot on the highway sometimes going up a long hill and kick the fan on high, which does help.

Normally there is no need for a fan at all at freeway speed but I think with the turbulence caused by the winch having the Taurus running full blast probably does a good job at steering the air in.
I have an XJ pump with the flat flange which gives me about an inch or so more than the stock YJ pumps. If push comes to shove, I can trim the shroud thinner.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
This interests me. You said earlier that at higher speeds, you heat up, yet under the same ambient temps you are fine crawling.

I'm wondering if the blade pitch of the XJ Water pump as well as the Circumference of the flat flange water pump pulley are the issue.

At higher RPMS constantly, you may be not moving as much fluid due to the blades spinning too fast if the pulley is smaller than your stock size, even by just a 1/4 inch. This would be a benefit at lower rpms or short bursts of rpms while wheeling, but a definite drawback at higher speeds.

You may just be causing your cooling system to become less efficient at sustained high speeds - ie, not moving enough fluid. If your impeller is spinning at a rate that, due to it's pitch, creates a situation werein you are at low operational efficiency, the liquid doesn't move well.
As far as the impellers between the two I'm not sure. As for the diameter of the outside pulley's, I believe they are nearly the same. The main difference being the pushed out center of the YJ one. If I could find a smaller pulley that would fit it would increase my rpm's but I may be better off getting a high flow pump if I want to pursue that path.


Something else that came to mind, I have a Taurus fan that covers 85% of the back of the radiator with the bottom 3-4" with no fan coverage. I may try to find a Mark VII fan or Volvo fan and get it to fit the entire backside. See below.

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