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Unread 03-04-2013, 07:00 AM   #16
bluedeval03
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Danville, KY
Posts: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigWillyStyle View Post
I hav a 91 YJ Wrangler. It has a 3.5 leafspring lift by Superlift. Its the way i bought it. Took it out for the first time to try it out and articulation is poor to say the least. I used to have a 89 cherokee, and aside from a 3 inch Rough country lift, it was completley stock, but went EVERYWHERE. A small incline with a small rut stopped my YJ so I cant even contiplait on taking it where my cherokee went. I have seen the suggestions on taking the rear track bar, and adding quick disconnects for the sway, what about removing the bump stops??? Any ideas on this or anything else that will help articulation. I wont do a spring over.
remove front and rear trac bars and never look back. Mine is a daily driver, aggressive at that, and no change in characteristics of handling/steering. Even with 4.5" lift and 33's

As for sway bar quick disconnects, there again, mine hasn't been hooked up since 2005. You learn what to expect with the sway bar disconnected. Although, I do miss the sway bar being connected on the curvy roads sometimes. Bump stops removed are great, as long as you don't mind the occasional body rub/damage http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...510-1438-1.jpg

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Unread 03-04-2013, 07:43 AM   #17
Siva283
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1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Falling Waters, WV
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No trackbars and no swaybar. 2 inch BDS springs and 1 inch boom shackles. Spring under and I think it flexes just fine.

Edit: You cant see it but I am actually high centered on the skid there a little.
imag0129.jpg  
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 03-04-2013, 11:07 AM   #18
fratis
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if you want it to flex better you need to get under there and start IDing whats holding it back. the biggest culprit has always been the rear shock mounting. next is the front mounting. remove your shocks and flex it out. if you get more and im pretty sure you will, then you know you need to rework the mounts. this goes for both length and also shock-eye orientation. shocks should be mounted with the eye-bolt perpendicular to the axle housing. the stock parallel mount will cause binding. make sure the clamps on the spring packs are not clamped tight. bend them up. make sure your shackles are working right at factory torque specs. 45lbs. is incorrect. that was made up years ago and people keep passing that around. the mounts have different specs front to rear. if you torque them to specs and they bind then you need to rework them not simply leave them loose. this will grind through the bolts. make sure your shackles arent vertical. they should have some angle. i liked mine a bit exaggerated. SUA with springs that are arched aggressively naturally dont droop as well as flat springs. when a spring droops it makes an arch but if your spring already has a good amount of curve then there is no where for the spring to go and it will have less droop potential. make sure your ebrake line isnt holding you back. mine was almost taught at ride hight. the flex game is won through little battles. theres no one big thing that will totally unlock the suspension. all the little things you do will add up.
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Unread 03-04-2013, 11:31 AM   #19
ArticRubi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fratis View Post
if you want it to flex better you need to get under there and start IDing whats holding it back.
Thank You!

Exactly the point I was making in my first post, fratis has given you a few more items to go look at also. Tech minded individuals tend to assume that a question is being asked because someone wants to tackle a problem themselves. It is also generally assumed if someone wants to do their own work, they also want to have a firm grasp on what they're doing. Most suspension related questions are never going to be fully answered by "Slap some XXX inch springs under there" or "Disconnect this" and "Remove that." While I'm not saying those aren't things you'll end up doing, I am you should understand why you're doing them and what they'll achieve, outside of simply how much articulation you have.

Ever heard of the Iron Triangle? If you want something done, you can pick two of the following: Cheap, Fast, and Good. The typical builder's route is cheap and good. Lots of time involved in research and work, but you'll end up with a quality product. You can take it to a shop (Fast and Good) but it'll cost you. Or you can take a few tidbits of web advise and bolt some **** on there in a weekend and not really know what the heck you have...it is cheap and fast though
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Unread 03-04-2013, 12:01 PM   #20
dillonjm
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArticRubi View Post
Thank You!

Exactly the point I was making in my first post, fratis has given you a few more items to go look at also. Tech minded individuals tend to assume that a question is being asked because someone wants to tackle a problem themselves. It is also generally assumed if someone wants to do their own work, they also want to have a firm grasp on what they're doing. Most suspension related questions are never going to be fully answered by "Slap some XXX inch springs under there" or "Disconnect this" and "Remove that." While I'm not saying those aren't things you'll end up doing, I am you should understand why you're doing them and what they'll achieve, outside of simply how much articulation you have.

Ever heard of the Iron Triangle? If you want something done, you can pick two of the following: Cheap, Fast, and Good. The typical builder's route is cheap and good. Lots of time involved in research and work, but you'll end up with a quality product. You can take it to a shop (Fast and Good) but it'll cost you. Or you can take a few tidbits of web advise and bolt some **** on there in a weekend and not really know what the heck you have...it is cheap and fast though
Simple fact is that the OP went out with his swaybars still connected and wondered why it didn't flex.

Doesn't take a genius to figure that one out, hence the "remove your swaybar" responses. That's an easy diagnosis, no need to start measuring for new shocks yet..
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