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Unread 12-24-2013, 11:19 AM   #1
Kingston
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Beating a Dead Horse

ok, so after forever of doing research and restless nights...i think i finally have figured out how to run all my vacuum lines...so if yall would give me all the input you got that would be appreciated.

ok so to start of, I have a 4.2 with a Weber carb i believe its the 32/36.
i bought it from the PO as is...ran great down the road as long as you gave it gas...will not idle, which sucks trying to take off on a hill having to feather the gas, brake and clutch .

the PO riped ALL the vacuum lines out and only had the PCV line ran, and it was wrong...I now have it located in the correct spot..at the bottom front of the carb ( see picture with bolt plug )

the distributor looks like it hasnt been touched, according to the pictures ive seen of past researches after ppl fixed there issues, its in the same spot. The line runs from the Dist. over the valve cover and around to the side of the Carb Facing the driver side tire and is T in there (see pictures with blue line)

I caped off the EGR, since all the research ive found even on this forum the ppl are always 50/50 wether to cap it or not but all said if i cap it i get better fuel economy and maybe a little more power.

On the CTO, as shown in the picture, i pluged EGR outlet, and the bottom 2 towards the rear (im thinking a small line connecting the 2 will work) and ran the remanding 2 into a T and ran it to ONLY nipple on that side of the carb facing the motor (shown with blue nipple)

Yes i still have the Charcoal can located under Fluid Reservoir on the driver fender well. it has 2 lines running off it, 1 to the fuel tank, the other behind the carb some were...i gotta really trace it since i just glanced at it. Im not useing the Can since ive got Antique tags and do not have to get my jeep inspected at all. and the only reason i see it usefull is to collect fuel vapors so i dont smell them inside the cab, but im not worried about that.

if yall see anything that i need corrected on please let me know...im hoping when i can FINALLY get my tags and DL here in MD and hook everything up like ive said, then itll fix my idle issue and ill be able to go and enjoy her.

carb-vac.jpg  
vac-question.jpg

vac-fix-3.b.jpg

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Unread 12-24-2013, 11:22 AM   #2
Kingston
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i forgot one thing...in the picture with the fuel line that goes into the carb...it T's into 3...left bottom right, since the fuel line is run into the right, the bottom caped, im pretty sure the left needs to be caped, would yall know what size bolt thread or home depot or napa, advanced auto would have something i could use.
motor3.jpg   motor4.jpg  
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Unread 12-24-2013, 11:38 AM   #3
Old4X
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You have your CTO plugged, why did you bother to run a line to it? It is supposed to at least run to the purge signal port on the evap canister. Evap has 4 lines going to it, you just going to leave 2 open?

What is under the duct tape?

For all the members running this carb, there really should be crystal clear instructions for installing the vac lines, no reason each person has to re-invent the wheel each time
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Unread 12-24-2013, 11:56 AM   #4
swatson454
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Check the CJ board


Shawn
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:03 PM   #5
Kingston
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keep in mind im no expert of the 4.2, ive only dealt with V8 racing motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
You have your CTO plugged, why did you bother to run a line to it?
On the CTO, as shown in the picture, i pluged EGR outlet, and the bottom 2 towards the rear (im thinking a small line connecting the 2 will work) and ran the remanding 2 into a T and ran it to ONLY nipple on that side of the carb facing the motor (shown with blue nipple)

the CTO is no longer duct taped, it was a BEFORE picture that i used to show were i plug the PCV valve into ( were the bolt plug is).....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
Evap has 4 lines going to it, you just going to leave 2 open?
the PO did this, as stated before, I do not need the Evap Canister or Charcoal Can..which ether u want to call it. its part of the emissions control that you can take off.

see example pictures A and B
example A is how you can run it if you want to use you EVAP Can (I call a charcoal can)
example B is without....also how my distributor is run to the "T" on carb between the EGR (I forgot to show the same in example A)....see pic 2 in my first post of this thread
exam-.jpg

exam-b.jpg

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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:06 PM   #6
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Ok, the PCV needs to be run to the brass barb on the adapter plates. That should help a lot. Those adapter plates can be a big source of grief if they're leaking so make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks there.

I'd also pull the primary idle jet out and make sure it isn't plugged. Pull the jet out of the holder and make sure you can blow both ways through the jet. You may even want to swab the hole in the end with a q-tip. They can be sneaky, little buggers.

The idle jet you're looking for will be on the passenger side of the carb, up high. Large, brass screw head.



The jet will pull out of the holder with a little twist. Make note of the 2-digit number stamped on the jet. 75 seems to work best and smaller than 70 simply doesn't work at all.



I'm not sure how your fuel line is run but this is preferred manner. Standard, bypass filter with the return outlet up at 12 o'clock. Notice the PCV line.



I'm also guessing that this Jeep has had the "Nutter Bypass" performed. If so, make sure the timing is set at idle speed with the vacuum line disconnected and plugged. A 32/36 is also pretty timing-sensitive so make sure it's at 8* as a minimum. I'd shoot for 10 to 12*.

Just some preliminary thoughts. Hope it helps.


Shawn
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #7
bgredjeep
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Since you appear to not have most (or any) of the emissions equipment, hook up the Dist, PCV, and breather (to the filter) and cap everything else. As long as you have no open vacuum ports it should be good.
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #8
Kingston
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Swatson, Thank you for your help, and ive attached a picture...the only one i have of the fuel line...it looks like its hooked up just like u got there...and also the pcv is in the same location....so i should be good there


edit: this is a old picture...the pcv valve is not hooked up to the air filter as shown...it is hooked up to the brass fitting below that.
jeep-motor.jpg

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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:14 PM   #9
Kingston
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also im not 100% if the PO had done the NUTTER or not, i got to trace it out and also do that if he has not...ALSO does anyone have a picture of how there CTO is hooked up? without going to the EVAP Can....is the way i showed in the pictures correct on hooking it up?
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:15 PM   #10
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Your PCV is hooked up incorrectly to the filter. The valve itself needs to be plumbed over to the brass barb so manifold vacuum will pull air through the crank case. See how mine goes from the PCV to the adapter plates? You don't need to run anything to the air filter when you're using a separate filter at the back of the valve cover. Make sense?


Shawn
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:18 PM   #11
Kingston
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ok had to call re quick to a buddy to go look at something.....in the picture theres, whatever it is circled in red, that is were the second line from the Evap can is leading to....but as u see in the pic the other end is just open with no line...WTH is this? whats it for and do i need it? if not can i just unhook that line goin from the can to it or do i need to T this is some place.
jeep-motor3.jpg

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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:20 PM   #12
Kingston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Your PCV is hooked up incorrectly to the filter. The valve itself needs to be plumbed over to the brass barb so manifold vacuum will pull air through the crank case. See how mine goes from the PCV to the adapter plates? You don't need to run anything to the air filter when you're using a separate filter at the back of the valve cover. Make sense?


Shawn
agreed....i forgot to mention the pics im useing are old....sorry for the miss hap....i was stating that as of NOW I have it hooked up to the brass fitting
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:20 PM   #13
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingston View Post
also im not 100% if the PO had done the NUTTER or not, i got to trace it out and also do that if he has not...ALSO does anyone have a picture of how there CTO is hooked up? without going to the EVAP Can....is the way i showed in the pictures correct on hooking it up?
If you aren't using a stock air cleaner, the evap can or the EGR, just remove the CTO and put a plug in the hole, it is totally useless.

eta: all it does is act as a temperature controlled vacuum switch.
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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:22 PM   #14
swatson454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingston View Post
agreed....i forgot to mention the pics im useing are old....sorry for the miss hap....i was stating that as of NOW I have it hooked up to the brass fitting
Roger that


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Unread 12-24-2013, 12:40 PM   #15
Kingston
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the only reason im not using the Can, is i dont want to intall everything back again and have a birds nest of lines every place....the cto...i figured i had to have that hooked up to help with my idleing problem....and the EGR i didnt hook back up so i can get better gas milage
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