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Unread 05-26-2012, 10:16 PM   #16
riverhippy
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: pic is my girlfriend/fiancee, mi
Posts: 240
i pressure tested it today and found what i thought was the leak....it was just barely leaking at one of the hoses...i tightened it down and thought that would have solved it....but nope.

heres my plan of action: 1)Im gonna flush it out from the heater hose inlet to heater hose outlet.
2) change the thermostat jic its bad or sticking
---if its still running hot----
3) I'll bypass the heater core...since this is the only place it can leak unseen.

if that solves it then i get to do a heater core this summer.

hows my logic guys?

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Unread 05-26-2012, 10:19 PM   #17
riverhippy
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: pic is my girlfriend/fiancee, mi
Posts: 240
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
You can spin the blades and check the clutch without removing the belt. Has the fan been roaring at all? Should be very noticeable if your engine is running that hot. If its running hot even at highway speeds, its not likely the fan clutch.
roaring?
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Unread 05-26-2012, 10:35 PM   #18
riverhippy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
You can spin the blades and check the clutch without removing the belt. Has the fan been roaring at all? Should be very noticeable if your engine is running that hot. If its running hot even at highway speeds, its not likely the fan clutch.
yes, its running that hot even at highway speeds. the fan free spins only a 1/4 revolution and the fan and its tight when i grab n rock the blades.
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Unread 05-27-2012, 01:03 AM   #19
riverhippy
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: pic is my girlfriend/fiancee, mi
Posts: 240
yes, its running that hot even at highway speeds. the fan free spins only a 1/4 revolution and the fan and its tight when i grab n rock the blades.

i pressure tested it today and found what i thought was the leak....it was just barely leaking at one of the hoses...i tightened it down and thought that would have solved it....but nope.

heres my plan of action: 1)Im gonna flush it out from the heater hose inlet to heater hose outlet.
2) change the thermostat jic its bad or sticking
---if its still running hot----
3) I'll bypass the heater core...since this is the only place it can leak unseen.

if that solves it then i get to do a heater core this summer.

hows my logic guys?
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Unread 05-27-2012, 02:19 PM   #20
SDGBASSE
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Mtl, Qc
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Did it fix the whistle?
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Unread 05-27-2012, 04:42 PM   #21
lower7
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 44
Regarding the whistle: Lean in there and pinch the purge signal vac line. Does it stop?

John
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Unread 05-27-2012, 04:50 PM   #22
pete1991YJ
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Your logic is OK so far, but I would be amazed if it was a heater core. I guess its possible tho. I think you would have seen steam or found antifreeze tho, if it was leaking bad enough. What about the radiator cap itself?
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Unread 05-31-2012, 06:26 AM   #23
riverhippy
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FML....im stumped. new radiater cap, new heater hoses (thought they might have been collapsing) new temp sending unit, new failsafe thermostat.

still the temp gage shows im running at 240-250 deg. almost redlining. i pop the cap, thro a thermometer in radiator and its 190ish degrees. what do i believe?
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Unread 05-31-2012, 06:32 AM   #24
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverhippy View Post
FML....im stumped. new radiater cap, new heater hoses (thought they might have been collapsing) new temp sending unit, new failsafe thermostat.

still the temp gage shows im running at 240-250 deg. almost redlining. i pop the cap, thro a thermometer in radiator and its 190ish degrees. what do i believe?
I would believe the thermometer.
I believe you need to do some electrical work. Extra resistance in the circuit was throwing the temp gauge off, making it read high. Recall that the sender on the *rear* of the cylinder head, is the one that the gauge reads off. I would take the gauge cluster out, clean every connection till its shiny, ands same thing at the other ends of the wires. Here's a write-up about it:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/r...ter-how-991307

Prolly woulsdn't hurt to replace that sender anyhow just for the heck of it tho.
.
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Unread 05-31-2012, 07:27 AM   #25
riverhippy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
I would believe the thermometer.
I believe you need to do some electrical work. Extra resistance in the circuit was throwing the temp gauge off, making it read high. Recall that the sender on the *rear* of the cylinder head, is the one that the gauge reads off. I would take the gauge cluster out, clean every connection till its shiny, ands same thing at the other ends of the wires. Here's a write-up about it:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/r...ter-how-991307

Prolly woulsdn't hurt to replace that sender anyhow just for the heck of it tho.
.
thats what i need to know, thanks petey. how much of a temp diff should there be between radiator and block?
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Unread 05-31-2012, 08:08 AM   #26
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Hey Riverhippy! I thought we had you taken care of after our last go around! There are to temp sensors on the Jeep. One in the front is only for the ECU and the one in the rear of the block with a single wire for the guage. After all the work you have into it lets start with the obvious. You are reading 190 in the radiator but what temp do you have in the block at the time. The resistance on the temp sensor in the rear is in the chart and will tell you if the reading on the guage matches the sensor. The temp in the radiator should be within 10 degrees of the sensor with the tstat open.

Did you just replace the water pump? There are 2 types and they flow opposite. If you get the wrong one it will overheat!

The fan blade clutch should allow the fan to spin freely when cold. If it doesnt then when you are at higher speeds it will overheat so check it cold to see if it spins without much resistance.

Do you still have the whistle? You said you pressure tested the system. When you did it did the system maintain the pressure after you fixed the leak?

No need to bypass the heater core. If you were losing fluid from it, it would make sense but not if you are able to maintain pressure.
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Unread 05-31-2012, 08:09 AM   #27
Que89YJ
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I forgot to post this!
yjgaugespecs-1-.jpg  
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Unread 05-31-2012, 09:59 AM   #28
pete1991YJ
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Que is right - lower resistance would read higher on the gauge. I wouldn't expect more than 10 degrees diff between the radiator and block. The thermometer is right and your gauge circuit is funky.
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Unread 06-07-2012, 08:48 AM   #29
riverhippy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Hey Riverhippy! I thought we had you taken care of after our last go around! .....

The fan blade clutch should allow the fan to spin freely when cold. If it doesnt ..........
this jeep is like one of those disaster movies....no matter wtf is fixed, there is some other bomb ticking thats gonna explode, some dam is gonna break, hurricane.....etc...u get the pic...haha

im back to hating this effin thing
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Unread 06-11-2012, 11:06 PM   #30
riverhippy
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Posts: 240
its still warm...but not at 250...still got the whistle too....but its better...any further thoughts?

I think its running good...for now. I'm trying to remember whch one of you helpful rummies wanted to go to the nooner....but i've got me girl and her twin
I'd love to get to know some of the guys that have been so helpful in keeping my jeep running...ill buy the beer.
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