It's a long story about how I figured my Ignition switch to be bad, and it was part of 3 other simultaneous problems that left the Jeep D-E-D in the parking lot one day. I can get to that later, but lets look at replacing the Ignition switch.
The problem I encountered was that my fuel pump would not get juice in the "run" position, it would only get juice in the "start" position.
The Ignition switch itself is not the thing you put the key into and turn, that is the lock cylinder. The Ignition Switch proper is an assembly on top of the steering column, under the dash. There is a metal rod that runs to it that is actuated by turning the key in the lock. This is the switch, you can see the ignition wires coming out of it--viewed from under the dash, from the passenger side of the steering column.
This is the switch after you drop down the steering column. You can see the rod coming from above that goes into it, I'm touching it with a screwdriver tip. This is directly on top of the steering column, under the dash.
Screwdriver here is directly poking on the upper part of the Ignition switch.
There are some differences between switches in the Non tilt column, versus the Tilt column, and they have different part numbers. Mine is the Tilt column, so yours will vary depending on style column. There are also some differences in the procedure of function checks and adjusting based on manual versus auto tranny. Mine is a 5 speed.
First thing to do of course in any electrical work is to disconnect your battery, block your tires etc. Leave your KEY in the OFF position. You need to remove the instrument panel bezel, there are 4 screws across the top above the speedo/tach, and two below. Once you pull these off, you need to drop the steering column. There are 2 bolts, 5/8 head, one on each side of the column, remove these.
In addition, you should remove the 4 bolts that hold this bracket to the column. Two on each side, 13mm or 1/2 inch fits. You can see them in the above photo, you can then remove the bracket and set it aside. Next you should remove the 13mm head bolts holding the plate that supports the steering column at the firewall. There is a foam type grommet that is visible on the engine side, I just pulled it loose with the plate.
This will allow the column to drop down so you can access the Ignition switch. The high beam switch is closely associated with the ignition switch, it shares mounting points. In addition there is an actuator rod coming down from above that fits into a socket on the end of the high beam switch, shown below.
High beam switch, seen from passenger side of column, from beneath.
High beam switch and actuator rod--lower center of photo, with ignition switch directly above it.
High beam switch supported by my grubby thumb.
The actuator rod for high beam switch goes into the socket just above the screwdriver tip.
To remove the Ignition Switch and the High beam switch, you need to remove two fasteners--as shown at the end of the screwdriver.
Removing these will allow you to remove the High Beam switch, then the second fastener has another nut to remove that pulls out the final stud holding in the Ignition switch.
You can now pull it free from its own actuator rod, and it will dangle from the electrical cables.
The actuator rod looks like this now, on top of the steering column. This is important of course and will play a role in a bit.
To remove the two connectors from the switch, there are 4 tabs to depress, one blue one here:
And the other 3 here, 1 more blue, and 2 black:
Depress the tabs and you can remove the plugs from their sockets.
Now to look at the old switch and new switch for comparisons.