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Unread 08-09-2009, 10:01 PM   #16
98_XJ
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I am assuming its the same for the front cover as well? If I go with the "plane Jane" gasket would you recommend gasket sealer? Also how do I remove the fill plug, because mine appears to be flat?

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Unread 08-09-2009, 10:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98_XJ View Post
I am assuming its the same for the front cover as well?
I did this write-up while doing the front axle maintenance. It's the Dana 30 in the front of my '91 YJ.
If I go with the "plane Jane" gasket would you recommend gasket sealer?
I'm not aware of a "plain" style gasket, but if you have one or can get one, I would use the red RTV sealer. When that RTV is used with a gasket, just a thin layer is all that's needed.
Also how do I remove the fill plug, because mine appears to be flat?
It should be a 3/8" square drive plug, unless it's a rubber plug like the Dana 35 rear axles use. If that's the case, just carefully pry it out with a flat blade screwdriver tip.
Max
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Unread 08-10-2009, 12:15 PM   #18
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Sweet thanks.
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Unread 08-18-2009, 11:26 AM   #19
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I am working from the ground no lift. On the front differential how do you get to the very top bolt and the one to the right of it? Also one of the bolt heads is rounded off a little so I can't get the correct grip on the bolt. Any ideas on what to do?

I think there is lock tight on the bolts because I am having a hell of a time trying to get them off. The rear was much easier.
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Unread 08-18-2009, 11:33 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98_XJ View Post
I am working from the ground no lift. On the front differential how do you get to the very top bolt and the one to the right of it? Also one of the bolt heads is rounded off a little so I can't get the correct grip on the bolt. Any ideas on what to do?

I think there is lock tight on the bolts because I am having a hell of a time trying to get them off. The rear was much easier.
If the steering arms are in the way, try jacking it up (use jackstands, don't get under an improperly supported vehicle!) to see if that gives you the room you need.

There are a variety of sockets designed to remove rounded bolt heads & nuts. You may need one.

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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:11 PM   #21
deltl1ks
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Great step by step,

I will do it once I get those gasket's in. Ordering this week.

Great links.

My Jeep probably has never had this done and she sits just a little over 102K

Will do this coming weekend. I'm sure it's on here somewhere but how often should one change the fluid?
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Unread 08-24-2009, 08:08 AM   #22
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Great step by step,

I will do it once I get those gasket's in. Ordering this week.

Great links.

My Jeep probably has never had this done and she sits just a little over 102K

Will do this coming weekend. I'm sure it's on here somewhere but how often should one change the fluid?
I think it depends on your Jeep's environment. I routinely get water intrusion in my axles (and everything else!) because I live in a swampy area, so my axles' fluids get serviced rather often.

If you do not have this issue, I would recommend annual fluid changes. That really is more often than absolutely necessary, but it's cheap insurance & it gives you the opportunity visually inspect your diff internals for signs of wear. Noticing an abnormal wear pattern may head off an unexpected catastrophic axle failure.

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Unread 08-24-2009, 11:34 AM   #23
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I'll also do this in the ZJ 1996

It sits at just over 140K and likely never been done as well.

Yesterday we went wheeling in the Blue Ridge parkway.

Nothing extreme, just some fr's OHV trails
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Unread 08-25-2009, 08:39 PM   #24
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This is awesome! Exactly what I was looking for. I too am a tuner head like someone above me posted, and just bought my first Jeep today! I was reading online thinking, "wait, what is this differential fluid people are talking about?" HA HA! Thanks to your write up I can do this with ease. Thanks a ton Max!
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Unread 09-01-2009, 04:07 PM   #25
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quick question that may seem obvious. the plug for my front diff is sticking out. like it needs a square socket that would fit OVER it as opposed to the back cover which looks like these pictures where the square drive would fit INSIDE the plug. is that normal. they are both threaded right? guess i need a square driver and socket. is the socket also 3/8"?
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Unread 09-01-2009, 04:24 PM   #26
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Might want to add to the original How To:
"Lockers may require special lubricant. Check with the locker manufacturer."

"8.8 requires, per Ford, the use of 75-140 synthetic lube and if it has a limited slip diff, the addition of limited slip additive."

"Also might add, an 8.8 with a typical pinion angle for SYE takes about 4 quarts of fluid, well OVER the stock fill hole level, in order to keep the pinion lubricated when rotated up for the SYE (AND/OR lift). An aftermarket cover with high fill hole is pretty much a requirement unless you left the ABS sensor hole open for filling purposes. (Or park on one heck of a slant!)"
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Unread 09-01-2009, 04:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OPlo View Post
quick question that may seem obvious. the plug for my front diff is sticking out. like it needs a square socket that would fit OVER it as opposed to the back cover which looks like these pictures where the square drive would fit INSIDE the plug. is that normal. they are both threaded right? guess i need a square driver and socket. is the socket also 3/8"?
I'm not sure of the size on that external size, when I encounter those type of square plugs I usually just use an adjustable cresent wrench. Try some different sized open-end wrenches (probably 9/16" or 5/8" would be my guess) and try to determine the size. If you do figure it out, please report back with the size & I'll edit it into the original write-up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
Might want to add to the original How To:
"Lockers may require special lubricant. Check with the locker manufacturer."

"8.8 requires, per Ford, the use of 75-140 synthetic lube and if it has a limited slip diff, the addition of limited slip additive."

"Also might add, an 8.8 with a typical pinion angle for SYE takes about 4 quarts of fluid, well OVER the stock fill hole level, in order to keep the pinion lubricated when rotated up for the SYE (AND/OR lift). An aftermarket cover with high fill hole is pretty much a requirement unless you left the ABS sensor hole open for filling purposes. (Or park on one heck of a slant!)"
All good info! I'll cut & paste that in the original post. I don't see any need to alter your input, it seems pretty accurate to me!
Thanks!
Max
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Unread 09-02-2009, 08:37 PM   #28
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thank you for the write up just what i needed to see you're right some of the simplest task ''we '' make hard.
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Unread 09-03-2009, 06:31 AM   #29
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One down, one to go. Did the rear last night. So far so good. Couple things I ran into:

1. The 3/8 square on the plug was partially stripped so I tapped the 3/8 driver into the plug (with my hand) and managed to get it to turn with taps at the end of the end of the driver/breaker bar. Looks like there is a diamond bit fitting at the bottom of the square but I did not try to use it.

2. Had to give the cover a few pretty good whacks with a rubber hammer to get it loose.

3. Took a while to clean off all the old gasket sealer from the mating surfaces. Used a putty knife and a wire brush. The brush proved especially helpful. I also cleaned the threads on all the bolts using the wire brush.

4. I used one of those pour tubes that attach to the bottle to get the new gear oil in. Best technique was to let the oil fill the tube and then squeeze the bottle to pump it into the diff (repeat until empty). Had to orient the bottle to the driver side of the diff to get it high enough to drain (3" lift helps).

5. Followed the tightening pattern that accompanies the Lube Locker gasket but don't have anything to measure torque. Tightened each bolt snug, in order, then when back through in the same order to tighten firm.

6. Test drove - had very small amount of fluid leaking from one of the bolts. Tightened a bit further. Will monitor...

Thanks again for the write up.
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Unread 10-26-2009, 09:12 AM   #30
OPlo
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I can't seem to stop a slow leak in my rear diff. It's coming though bolt #7 (in the tightening order). Any recs? I've backed it out, wired brushed the threads, re-tightened all the bolts and it's still leaking slowly. I spent a lot of time cleaning the mating surfaces before the install. If I drain the gear oil, can I re-use it? It's new. Might be tough to get back in anyway.
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