[BadAddetude]

Nope! I'm outside too.

[BadAddetude]

NP 231 C/J Split Case, AKA "The Frankencase"

As promised...

Required Components/Parts
NP 231 "J", 1987-1999 Wrangler/Cherokee, 21 or 23 Spline Input



NP 231 "C", 185-1989 Chevy S-10 Series Trucks, 27 Spline Input (IMPORTANT!)





Whatever yard you get these Items from, take whatever you can get at a reasonable price. Shafts, linkages, hoses, Mounting hardware, speedo equipment, vacuum accessories, adapter between trans and t-case. Eliminates part hunting and scavenging halfway through the project.

The Tool's You'll Need:
10 MM Socket/Wrench
15 MM Socket/Wrench
1-1/8'' Socket for yoke nut (Not positive of size, will confirm)
Socket hand crank (Not necessary, but definitely helpful)
Snap Ring Pliers
Regular Pliers
BIG Screwdriver
Tiny Screwdriver
Hammers - Small, large, and the rubber kind (mallet, yes I know!)

The Supplies You'll Need (Get them BEFORE you get your hands dirty!)
PB Blaster
Permatex Black RTV Gasket Maker
Rags, New(Clean) and old, in quantity
Sandpaper (100 grit is good)
Brake cleaner/parts cleaner
Turpentine/Lacquer Thinner
Scrubbing (Brillo/ScotchBrite) Pads

IS THERE A DOCTOR IN THE HOUSE?!

Ok, got you parts, supplies, tools and ambition? Good. Let's get to it.

The procedure itself is actually quite easy, takes about 2/3 days, due to parts cleaning and cure time. DON"T BE IN A HURRY! YOU WON"T GET IT DONE TODAY! Dissassembly instructions are EXACTLY the same for both cases. Both have the same exact parts inside. Most are interchangeable.

You'll need a good work bench as pictured. Clean it well before starting disassembly. If you don't have a workbench, send the wife and kids outside to eat for the week and use the kitchen table. the Jeep requires all to sacrifice! Use air or a fine dust brush on the table, and repeat as necessary throughout. Clean the cases before beginning as well, little scrub brush action and some parts cleaner/ foamy engine brite will do it.

(Drain the oil before Dissassembly!)

Begin by removing the 3 bolts holding the tail cone on. Use the rubber mallet and give it a tap or 2 and break it loose. NP seemed to like Permatex (Must have had a contract with them), so don't be deterred. Take the tiny screwdriver and small hammer and drive it in behind one of the 3 tabs sticking out from the cone itself. The Aluminum is exttremely soft, so be careful not to dig in too much. Tap, pry, relocate, repeat.

You should go from this:



To This:



Gettin' late, need some sack time, will update tomorrow:
-Your first snap ring!
-Watch the oil pump!
-OOOH, aaaa....
-The Planetaries Duke, the Planetaries!
-Bigger is Better (That IS what she said...)


Until then, LATER!

[BadAddetude]

The Saga Continues : The Snap Ring...

Tail cone removed. Prepare to split the case.

See the snap ring (Picture Blurry):



The ring does not have tabs with holes for a regular set of snap ring pliers. That is ok for the removal. Use the pins to spread the Ring far enough to slide it over the shaft. Grease helps a bit here.I ruined the ring doing this, and had to get one from my Dealer. It was cheap, don't worry.

Removed:



On the Install, the big screwdriver comes in to play. How is that you ask? Well, I dunno. Honestly, I was struggling with the ring pliers, my dad was standing there, I stopped to do something else for a minute, and turned around and he had it on. Old guy wouldn't tell or show how. I think he forgot! In a way, use the wide flat end of the screwdriver to spread the points of the ring and slide it back on.

Ok, you have the ring off. Your a few bolts away from ATF, aluminum gears and an overgrown bike chain.

Remove the "speedo housing" with the 10 mm bolts, in a similar fashion as the tail cone. Start with rubber mallet, upgrade to screwdriver if necessary.

Should look like this when complete:



STOP!!!!!! You are now looking at a thin metal object. That's an OIL PUMP! Yes, the NP 231 has a oil pump, of sorts at least. The pump just slides off the shaft, but bewarte of the pick up line (Not the one for the ladies...)



Rubber o-ring in the bottom of the pump "holds" the line in. No biggie, but I wan't aware of it when I started, and ir freaked me out.

Ok. Time to unbolt the halves! 15 MM wrench recommended to break 'em loose. Most of them are pretty long. They are all similar length, but be mindful of the 2 opposite corners (Upper left, Bottom right) have sleeves in the bolt holes, to those 2 may be differnt. Keep track of you hardware!

Unbolt:



You will definately have to use the small screwdriver to open it up. Both cases had a TON of RTV holding them together, to the point where bolts were probably not necessary. Start with the small one, then move to the big one carefully:



Then, Slide it apart!



Have a rage under the case before separation, you WILL still have some oil in the bottom.

The guts of the 231:



OOOOH, AHHH! It's sooooo shiny and oily! Just about eeverything you can touch will need to be slid out and removd from the case, like so:



Little wiggle on everything, keep it all even, it'll come right out. Watch your fingers however, some of the gear teeth and aras around the shifter fork felt sharp, or at least rough to where you don't want your fingers caught. The shift fork can be unruley at times as well. Don't count on it staying anywhere for too long.

Like so:



Gettin' late again, need some sack time, will update tomorrow, perhaps the last one!
-The Planetaries Duke, the Planetaries!
-Bigger is Better (That IS what she said...)
-Reassembly tips (sanding, cleaning, repeating!)


Until then, keep the shiny side up and the dirty side down!

[PAJeep95YJ]

Nice write up, cant wait for more posts and finished product.

Oh and you must be going to school for some journalism, or you should be

[BadAddetude]

Originally Posted by PAJeep95YJ

Nice write up, cant wait for more posts and finished product.

Oh and you must be going to school for some journalism, or you should be

Thanks.

Nope, Engineering at Drexel.

[BadAddetude]

Ok, This may very well be the last post for this, so pay attention. Like they say at suicide bomber school, "I'm only going to do this once..."


Ok, case is split in half. Split them both in half at the same time with the same steps and save some time! Have plenty of room and keep every part separate and spread out to avoid confusion (most all the parts ARE interchangeable, but if you are anal like me, you'll want to keep things orderly. Things can get confusing quick!)

Like so:



The mainshaft and the front shaft sproket get slid out at the same time. Tap the front sproket shaft out with the hammer if need be. See picin post above. (TIP: remove the nut on the yoke with a impact gun and pipe wrench, or a strong idiot and a breaker bar.)

With everthing removed, now is a good time to compare parts! The 231 "C" is a bit beefier than the 231 "J", I believe because it was used behind some small cubic inch V8's. The chain is wider, sprockets are heavier (by a bit) and 27 spline input.

Don't believe me?!?! Here's some proof:

Exhibit A:



B:



Close up of the chains:



Ok, enough basking in strength. Time to Reassemble.

The parts you will be needing for reassembly:
From the 231 "C"
-Front half of the case (ncluding shift fork and internals)
-Chain (optional)

From the 231 "J"
-Output Shaft
-Front yoke sprocket/shaft
-Oil pump/pick-up (Don't forget the magnet!!!)
-Rear case half
-"Speedo housing" (and associated hardware
-Tailcone

The oil pump, pickup, magnet, tail cone and bolts are all interchangeable, so if one looks worn or one is newer than another, go for it! Also, most guys would opt to put the heavier "C" chain in (like I did). The chain will not fit perfectly over the "J" gear sets, as it is wider. The "J" chain is more than adequate. I wish I had stuck with the "J" chain. It'll be all right (Or so I tell myself.)

Start by cleaning EVERY LAST COMPONENT! Set aside part you won't be needing, as to avoid wasting time cleaning them (DUH!)

Sandpaper, turpentine, knife, srubbing pad all work well to remove the RTV from everything. Try to keep the scrapings from getting into the planetaries up in the front half. Clean the magnet of metal shavings and wipe the oil screen off. Assemble the pick-up line and slide it back in (assuming it fell out, which it probably did.)

Once everything is clean and pretty, start reassembling.
-Use assembly lube on EVERYTHING!
-Be gentle, yet forceful at times. DON'T BREAK IT!
-Take your time and don't forget anything.

Start by putting the output shaft, yoke shaft AND chain in, all at the same time. Play with them both (You're Sick!) Until they line up and go home. The yoke shaft may need gentle persuasion, but remember, that's a bearing you are beating on, so be careful! Once those 3 are in and lined up (make sure the shift fork/sleeve are lined up properly) you're almost set free.

The rear half is next. With all the surfaces clean and prepped, lay a smooth, average bead of RTV around the OUTSIDE of ALL the bolt holes one one surface, recommended the front case half.. Here's where patience comes in. Let the RTV skin up for about 20 minutes before anything happens. Then, using the 2 sleeved bolt holes and the shift fork dowel, slide the rear half on. loosely put all the bolts in, maybe taking it down to flatten out some of the RTV. Let sit for another 30 min. Come back again, SNUG everything down evenly. If RTV starts squeezing out, stop and give it more time. After 3 hours, it should be cured enough for a bit of torque. After torque, let sit for the night and finish the job next morning.

Next morning, install the oil pump. Find the oil line hole, use you small fingers (sorry fat people) and slide the line up in there. Screwdriver or needle nose may be helpful here. Take note of the 3 tabs sticking out from the sides. Once that's in, the RTV procedure can be repeated for the speedo housing. Line up the shifter dowel and the tabs on the oil pump to the housing, and looesl fit it with the 10MM bolts. Same procedure for the RTV gasket.

Once that's cured the next morning, or whenever its ready, the tailcone can go on. The all day RTV procedure isn't entirely nessisary for this, as it leaks out the end anyway. The bolt holes ARE oriented a certain way, so experiment and get it right before the RTV.

You're done! Put the yoke back on, install the speedo gear and clamp, swap out the vacuum switches so you can plug and play, a pair of channel locks for stud swapping, and you're good to go. You now have a bolt on 231 "Frankencase."


OK. Here's what threw me; The 231 J has a 6 stud pattern. The 231 C has a 5 stud pattern, but it is clocked the same. At the yard. Make sure you get the adapter/mounting plate for a TH350/700R to 231C, not 241. They are VERY different.

Bolt up, fill with ATF, vacuum and vent lines, shifter and you're off!

The 700R install itself is still underway. LOTS of small details now, but It's almost complete. Once that's done, expect to see more on that.

For now (inser clever sign off line here). Over and out.

[BadAddetude]

OK, Time for an Update:

Just about ready to fire up! Plumbed (sorta), Mounted, shafts made, links made, bolted, starter, gauge the whole 10 yards! Predicting a Sunday (11/10?) firing.

URGENT!! URGENT!!!

If ANYONE knows ANYTHING about GM columns and neutral safety switches PLEASE CONTACT ME ASAP!!!@#@

Looking forward to lock-up O/D in a YJ! I'll have more in depth write up after the firing and certification, especially now since I dropped Calculus.

[BadAddetude]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!! MWAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

Yes, folks, at 1320 EST, today's date, the Ol' Warhorse grumbled to a form of life. While not entirely official (not a turn key start), it was a internal combustion engine under its own power, and it did not explode!

About that whole "non turn-key" deal. Yea. I'm having problems with my NSS and reverse lights system, as well as starter/solenoid/relay issues. A lot of wires were traced and troubleshot. Here are my 2 main issues:

The "Green and Brown Wire." The wire on the solenoid (formally mounted on the starter, now remotely relocated to the firewall), had a green wire running to it, to energize it. Everything worked fine when I parked it. I moved the green wore to the proper pin on the solenoid. Did nothing else. Now I have no electric to the wire with the key in the "start" position. At all. I traced that wire, and apparently the PO butchered the wiring up. It is spliced to a brown wire that goes into the main loom, near the power distribution box. I NEED to know where theat brown wire goes. Consulting the Chiltons diagrams showed nothing coming from the PDC. I imagine it goes to the Key somehow, but wisdom from y'all before i tear all my wiring and hair out would be much appreciated.

Also, Chiltons shows the 95 YJ 4.0 starter set up having a Key switch, NSS, Relay, solenoid, and Starter. Is the Relay really necessary with the solenoid? Does anyone else have one? Can I just rely on the solenoid? I don't see why I couldn't, it's been done like that before. It seems this relay and the associated wiring was butchered by a security system install, which may have included a kill switch of some sort. I'm removing the system now. Was wondering if the relay was part of it or Factory, and if I really needed to keep it.

As of now, Phase 1 (I think that's it) is mostly complete. Next weekend will result in a test ride (with luck!) and the following will be the final certification and road test. That'll be the bread on the butter! All in all, it's been a long uphill battle. I hope it's worth it!

Ed

[BadAddetude]

BUMP! For another night of viewing and knowledge.

Someone here HAS to have worked with their starter and accompanying wires!

[BadAddetude]

Ok, here it is:

Leaving for home tomorrow to work on the Jeep. Still have no answer on a few things, and a few new questions were brewed up this week:

- What year/model GM cars used the steering column set up found in our YJ's?
-How was the NSS set up on trucks using this column and having a 700R in it?
- What color is the wire that comes from the key going to the starter solenoid?
-Is there a fuse included anywheres in the wire between the key and solenoid?
-How does one remove the pinion seal on a D35 (yes, Im about to search, but i figued i'd ask!)
-The order is pinon bearing, crush sleeve, seal, yoke, correct???

C'mon guys, really need some help with this here. I'd like to try and get her turn key, and possibly even rolling this weekend for sea trials!

Soon to come (possibly tonite!) :
-Easiest, quickest Trans oil cooler install Ever!
-Temp Gauge install
-Phase 1: Set up for the Install...

PLEASE HELP WITH MY INQUIRIES!!!!

[BadAddetude]

Nobody? Anything?

[BadAddetude]

Ok, time for the Weekend Update:

For anyone actually following this thread anymore, I plan on the first movement of the Jeep this weekend. Figured out how to start her up with the old NSS, by grounding it! Fixed the starter wire issue (somehow! Couldn't do it again though!!) all hooked up and started. The old Jeep doesn't quite sound like she used to, with that BIG V8 starter under it, and a few small exhaust leaks. The drive shaft is in, and he angle doesn't look too bad, but I'm definately going to check the angles and avoid the vibes!



Was shortened from stock about 3 inches. Not too bad for guesswork!

Also found the slot for the new NSS on the column. Was tough to get pics, but there is a opening on the top of the column, on the inside (passenger cabin) side of the firewall, by the brake pedal. Now all that needs to be done is mount and wire it. the OE NSS wiring is quite confusing, or at least I thought so. With the switch and the computer in the mix, they really make the whole starer circuit quite complicated.

Foreseen teething problems:
-Brakes need to be bled again, with vacuum.
-Making sure the front d/s doesn't hit the skid
-Linkage adjustments
- 4wd Shifter set up

Remainder to be done:
- NSS wiring
- Lock-up wiring
- Front d/s
- Securing Cooling lines
- Gauge wiring/mounting


I know I keep promising the rest of the write-up, I will get to it. I keep working on it and finding something else wrong, need to guess and make it work, and if I already did the write-up, I'd have gone back and changed it 50 times.

If anyones got a good suggestion on where to mount a singe gauge on the das somewherse that it doesn't look tacky and involve tearing th old gauges out, fill me in!

Keep Jeepin'.

Later!

[BadAddetude]

Automatic Transmission Cooler Install in a YJ

As promised, here's my cheap (relatively), easy, and quick way to install a transmission oil cooler in your YJ and extend your transmissions life 10,000 for every 10 Degrees cooler you run (Fun Facts!).

The merchandise:
Transmission oil Cooler - I used this one here, picked up at a local store:
(Don't have the name in front of me, will look it up) I do know it only ran me $45.

Assorted lines and fittings: My cooler included a section of line, a small fitting useless to me at least, mounting hardware, AND instructions (who needs them anyways!). One might need to pick up barbed line fittings, hose clamps, and some screws/bolts. Figure $10-15 for that.

Metal Fabrications: The metal tabs you're given in the kit aren't strong enough for the use I'm going to show here. They allow the cooler to wobble around too much, so you'll need to have a local metal shop bend you something simple up. Shouldn't cost you much, shouldn't take too long to have done. Figure $40, just to be on the safe side.

The Install:

Open the box up and gawk at your new toy! Next, put a serious face on, throw out that plastic zip tie set up they give you, grab one of the metal brackets in the kit and head for the vice.

Take the metal and bend it center between the first and second pre-drilled holes in the plate. Heat (could probably just use a hairdryer) and a hammer help and keep the tab from breaking.

Go from this:



To thisMinus the bad shadows: Count the holes!)



Take your newly bent bracket to the fab shop and have 'em made up. Kudos to you if you can do it yourself. I don't have those resources, but I know folks who know folks and got free stainless brackets. Chicks dig stainless.

Anyways, with your new brackets, get your hardware together as shown. It's important to put that bolt in the hole of the bracket before putting the bracket on the cooler.

As shown:



The sheet metal screws seem a bit tiny for the application, but they work well. The piece of rubber/foam keeps the cooler from being beaten up by the bracket and the vibrations. Use a nut driver to avoid putting a hole in your new cooler with a flat head screwdriver.

Figure 1^3.3232:



Finished product:



Do keep in mind that the brackets should be kept in the back, and the in/out lines are going to be on the passenger side. Avoid repeating the procedure 7 times.

Cut the line you were given about 50/50. Put those lines on the cooler before mounting it in the Jeep, and tighten the clamps too.

Here:



I put bolts in the end of the lines to keep em clean. Slide the cooler up and in, in front of the radiator, between it and the bottom of the front grille.

Shown here:



Yes, it's tight, yes loosen that line up, yes be careful. YES, it's possible.

From the bottom:



From the top:



Going to post #2 for picture limitation reasons...

[BadAddetude]

OK. The bolts put in your new brackets should line up perfectly with 2 factory drilled holes in the YJ grille. Drop it in. NICE! It's there!



The bolts come though here:



Use a decent size washer and a NYLON lock nut to keep from vibrating loose.

Here comes the tricky part. Bolting it down.



The little shiny thing in there is the wrench! The way that bracke was bent and the holes drilled in it allows JUST enough room for an open end wrench. Use a socket below and tighten her down. The side with the hoses are even trickier. Take your time, it really isn't as bad as it seems to get to.

Run those hoses behind the headlights, keeping them high and protected. Here's where my application differs from your possible install:

Hooking up to an existing system. Determine which line is running "FROM the stock cooler, back to the Transmission". Remove this Line from the cooler, and hook up the top line on the new cooler to the output on the old cooler. Then hook the lower line up to the existing return line to the transmission. The ATF should flow through the stock cooler first, then to the aux. cooler, then to the transmission. This ensures a cool return.

That's it! Add a bit of oil to your trans, fire it up, and check the level. Top off as necessary.

Often, folks wish to put a temp gauge in line to keep tabs on things going on in the transmission. It's simple. Pick up a gauge (generic Auto-Meter gauge will do) with an electronic sender and a mounting bracket.

I put the sender in the feed to the cooling line (I think!) to know that there is a problem early to avoid burning my baby up. Make a fitting up to go in the place of the rubber lines somewheres. It should look something like this:


(The Little Brass thing!)

While I don't have the exact parts used listed in front of me now, I do have a record of what they are, so check for an update here.

Cut a small piece of Rubber line out, and slide the sender in line, using a hose clamp. One wire to the gauge to sender, one hot to the gauge, and gauge lighting optional. Easier that trying to figure out what your woman is blabbering about!

Once I get the Jeep moving and buttoned up, I will do the write up for the swap.I'm guestimating my total cost here is about $2500-3000. About half what I pad for the whole Jeep 3 years ago! It'll be worth it, or at least I hope.

WORD!

-Ed

[BadAddetude]

In the Beginning...

There were boxes of parts, money spent, and a Jeep without Overdrive. The Saga begins...

Simply put, if you can't handle removing the original trans and t-case, you should definatly reconsider starting the project. No better way to learn then to do, but this project does require some serious thought process, troubleshooting skills and general mechanical skills.

Here's a simple checklist of how to start the removal process. Do it in this order to avoid swimming in trans fluid and hitting you head numerous times.

- DRAIN ALL FLUIDS BEFORE STARTING ANYTHING!!!!!!!!
-Drain the cooler lines too. They make a mess with the little bit that's usually left in there. Now's a good time to remove them. You most likely won't be needing them, but save them for the time being.

-Remove driveshafts
-Remove shifter linkages (t-case too)
-Remove kickdown cable
-Remove dipstick
-Remove speedo cable, Vent line and Vacuum lines from t-case
-Remove starter
-Remove exhaust crosspipe.
-Disconnect Crank Position Sensor

Getting rid of all this small stuff now makes it easy to get to the big 2 items, and keeps you focused.

Put a jack and jackstant under the trans oil pan. Use a block of wood to distribute the weight. Unbolt the Trans mount, including the little shock/torque arm thing, and drop the skid.

The t-case has 6 studs and nuts holding it on. Start at the bottom, go around the whole thing, leaving the top one in. Get a FLOOR JACK and take the weight up, loosen the bolt, shimmy the case loose, and lower it to the ground. Some people will tell you that you don't need a jack. Guess what? They don't know JACK! Put the t-case aside, consider the "Frankencase", or consider it $200 bucks. You decide.

Now, to the transmission. It has 5 or 6 bolts (not sure will double check) holding on. They are tricky to get to. Now is when you will have to get all "Enginnering" on this thing. While it is possible to do it with the floor jack, similar to the t-case, it is a bit more dangerous, because it is a bit bigger and heavier, and has the potential to fall on you. I used the floor jack method, that's how I know now. If you have an engine hoist, or a lift of any sort, put a strap around it from above via the access hole in the floor and lower it down once all the bolts are out. MUCH safer and easier. Just be careful being under the Jeep with ~170lbs of Aluminum hanging over you. It could be DEADLY!

So, after all this, you should be left with something looking like this:



That's your flexplate with the tone ring for the CPS. Unbolt and put aside. You are left with just the Crank. While it would be easy to do now, a rear main seal replacement is impossible because the oil pan is keeping the engine from falling out of the Jeep. Keep that in mind throughout the project.

I purchased my Adapter kit from Novak Adapters. A bit more $$$, but WELL WORTH IT! Came with EVERYTHING needed to MOUNT the trans, and make sure it was aligned properly (will cover that later). Also, the tech support from these guys is FREAKING PHENOMENAL. Call 'em up, ask for Eric. This guy has actually done the swap before, so he knows what you are doing! Imagine if more companies did that!

To start out, Novak gives you a Billet steel alignment 'cup' to be driven into the hole in the crank. It is VERY TIGHT. Get a heavy head hammer with a short handle, and a Terry rag. Block of wood=no good. Grease the cup, and hold it up there with the rag on it. Lightly tap it to get it seated/started. This will cut holes in the rag, so move it around. keep tapping it in until it won't come out again, then you can get a block of wood and have at it. The cup is really a bit too big for the hole, but there's not much that can be done about that. Sanding could make it lopsided, and one thing to always remember during the swap is lopsided=BAD.

Should look like this:



With that in, bolt the flexplate up! The new plate is different than the old one. No tone ring. Ring gear offset to one side.Seems a bit lighter. Says "258" on it (mine did anyways). Hold it up, concave side facing the rear, get the "reinfocing ring" and bolts in hand, and rotate it to line up. There is only one way the bolt holes all line up, so keep trying. See the pic for the little reference mark:



Should Look like this when done:



Ok, since I'm tired and nobody reads this anyways, I'm callin it a nite!

Perhaps more tomorrow. The Adapter plate, all about torque specs, studs (for the Ladies...) and the TH 700R!

Keep the bugs off your glass and the bears off yer tail!

Ed