BadAddetude's Build: Project HRP

[BadAddetude]

Ladies and gentleman, I present you with my master plan, step by step. The goal of this is to take my 95 YJ and make it a bit more highway friendly. I call it Project: Highway Readiness Program, or HRP. I know, unique code names are kicka**.


Initially, I was going to do all this at once, with the goal of being ready for school in September, but time, funds and other complications have foced me to break it up into phases.

Phase 1 is my transmission swap. I'm putting in a TH700R4 in place of the stock TF999. While turning out to be expensive, the payoff of having overdrive and a lock-up converter on the highway, and a lower 1st gear would be a all around bonus. The trans will be backed up by a NP231 C/J case, NO adapters. This project will have its own separate write up in time. WITH PICS! The whole swap will be documented closely, showing all the parts I used and the overall cost.

Phase 2 will be a Ford 8.8 rear, 3.55 gears front and rear, and a SYE and CV shaft. 8.8's in decent condition are actually hard to come by in my area, and this prevented me from putting it in so soon. The e-brake set up and brake line mountings will be written-up.

Oddly enough, Phase 3 has already been completed due to necessity. Stainless steel brake lines were installed, due to rotten lines failing one afternoon while on the road. While no pics, were taken, insight to the install will be shared. It was A LOT EASIER of an install than anticipated.

Phase 4 will be a myriad of small components, such as Taurus fan, Dodge 136 amp alt, and "rock lights" for the underbody.

Right now, the 700R swap is underway, with parts coming from Novak Adapters and HESCO. The t-case is out and under the knife, and the TF is set to come out tomorrow. Once the job is completed, and I have spare time at school, the write-up will begin. Much credit needs to be given to the folks that helped me get the know-how to get going here. Once i get the names in front of me I'll include them in the thread. Will post up soon.

[intenseblu]

i'll be following your thread .. i am in the same boat trying to get it Jersey friendly .. nothing worse than being stuck doing 60 on a road buzzing at 80. dangerous even if you are in a battering ram with wheels.

i have the brake line install to do so hope you post up about that soon.

[BadAddetude]

Update:

The TF is out! It was a moderate struggle, but it slid out and hit the ground shortly before 8 pm tonight. Pictures were limited on the removal, but I will show how to remove the converter and flex plate. Now I'm waiting on parts!

Intenseblu, did you already order the lines? The manufacturer of the lines is a company called Classic Tubing in New York. See here: http://www.classictube.com/ . Maybe its cheaper direct from them. More details later. It's not too bad of a job, about 3 hrs work.

[Brandon_YJ]

Consider this thread crawled.

[Joe Dillard]

Originally Posted by BadAddetude

I'm putting in a TH700R4 in place of the stock TF999. While turning out to be expensive, the payoff of having overdrive and a lock-up converter on the highway, and a lower 1st gear would be a all around bonus. The trans will be backed up by a NP231 C/J case, NO adapters.

No adapters will be nice - if possible.

Perhaps the below post will negate what you posted above.

Is that correct? Or am I missing something?

Originally Posted by BadAddetude

Right now, the 700R swap is underway, with parts coming from Novak Adapters and HESCO.

Clarification with clear pictures would be nice if NO adapters were used like you mentioned - thanks.

[BadAddetude]

No adapters between the trans and t-case. You need adapters for the engine to the trans. Different bolt pattern and spline counts on the crank.

The adapter for the t-case to the trans was another $400 almost. I got a case for $150, and my 231 c/j requires no additional parts. That's what I meant by no adapters. It's working out so far.

[Joe Dillard]

Nice!

[BadAddetude]

Classic Tubing Pre-Bent Stainless Steel Brake Line Install

Guys, unfortuantely I do not have any pictures of the actual install, but a few pointers for folks thinking about replacing those 13-plus year old brake lines.

Ordered from Q-tec, the Kit from Classic Tubing (http://www.classictube.com/) came in 7 pieces, to cover all 4 corners of your Jeep.

I started by removing ALL lines from the Jeep. Remove the Banjo bolts from the front calipers, and unhook the rear lines where the block meets the left and right hard lines. Let as much of the fluid drain out as possible, perhaps overnight. brake fluid can be tough on your skin, so consider wearing gloves. Once all the fluid is out, get a pair of heavy wire cutters or pliers with cutters in them and have at it.

The rear line has a slide up clip that holds it in place, look and feel around for a tab up top to get ViceGrips on and pull out. Don't waste time with a wrench or saw (Like I did!). Front lines have a Torx head (believe it was T45, replaced them a LONG time before this) holding them down. Remove the airbox, drill out the rivits holding the bracket for the airbox and remove, and press the fender metal in to get to those Torx. PB and a long extension are your best friend!

TIP: Soak the lines at the MC in PB for a few days before the install. Dissimilar metals are there, and often corrosion binds them together VERY WELL! Get a good grip with flare line wrenches or a tight set of ViceGrips. Have a buddy hold the MC, and give 'em a good quick shot with a hammer. Not too hard as to break the MC, just enough to jar 'em loose.

TIP: For the Proportioning valve, cut all the lines off, unhook the wire, and remove the valve with the fittings on it. Take it to the vice wrapped in a clean rag, and with a snug wrench bust all those fittings loose. Don't worre about which line is which, they all have different fittings, so you can't confuse it on the install.

Onto the Lines:

TIP: Wrap the ends of all the lines in electrical tape real well to keep dirt out!

The longest of the lines runs to the rear, along the drivers side frame rail. This frame rail also runs both fuel lines, electric harness, and fuel evap line. It also has a very nice tricky bend out, up, down and back into the bracket.Start by loosening all those lines. Undo fuel line bracket at the bottom of the intae bracket, slip rubber evap line off the canister, and gently pry all the lines out of all the clips along the frame, up to the clips uptop of the frame in the fender. Remove the upper shock bolt and swing the shock down to make working easier. This line comes with a "shipping bend" in the center of the line. Wrap the ends, straighten the bend out, and feed the line in from the front of the Jeep, over the axle, behind all of the lines. When the bent up area gets close to the wheel well, use that shipping bent area to get a bi of flexing going on to snake that bend up and over the frame rail. Once it's up and over, you are practically there. Muscle the to of that bend back under the body tub and it's as good as gold. Snap the line into the uppermost plastic clips and arrange the front of the line as far left (close to the frame) as possible, avoiding fuel and evap lines.

Because I needed a confidence booster before I put the passenger side in, I pit the Front Driver side line in. Very simple, practically drop in. Tape the ends up of course. This line has a bend in it below the MC by the frame rail. From the factory, they only bend these lines 90* or less, so the line will need to be bent just a little bit by hand to get it to go where it should be. Be gentle and you won't kink it. Easiest of the 3.

Now for the passenger side. Get your ratchets and prybars ready! Remove the plastic cover and metal support from the front bumper (if you havnt't already). Loosen the front body mount under the grill. Take the bolt out. Loosen the clamp holding the power steering lines on the drivers side. Unbolt the P/S reservoir to get more flex from the lines. Now that the path is as clear as it gets, fish that line in there. Start with the drivers side. It's really a guess, flex, twist kinda deal. It's tight, but be careful and don't kink the lines. WD-40 will make tight spots slide easy. About half way in on the drivers side start the passenger side. You'll need 2 people now. Watch for A/c lines on the passenger side (if equipped), and on the drivers side, you MUST stay to the OUTSIDE of the shock tower, under the steering shaft. It is a VERY TIGHT squeeze. You'll see the bend that goes around the shock tower, and when its there, you've won! Again, the bend under the MC, where the line goes down then comes back up to hit the back of the Prop valve needs a bit of gentle bending to make it fit right. Once all 3 are in, Hook up your Prop valve, and use the 2 coiled lines to go from MC to Valve. On my kit, the fittings aren't quite right, so I'm going to get different ones, of Metric type. The Front was a M12x1.0, rear was a M10x1.0. The provided fittings for the Prop valve were ok. If you have this problem, don't be like me and attempt to cut and flare these lines!!! Call Classic Tube, tell 'em whats up. They'll hook you up when you send the lines back to them!

The factory rubber lines front and rear were shot on mine, so if you are panning to save them, I don't have much to say. I couldn't tell if they were even separable, it looked as though they were solid crimped. This is entirely possible, because they were DEFINITELY put on before the body. For the extra $70 or so, buy the Russell Stainless Braided lines, stainless brackets and good fittings. You just put new hard lines on, GO ALL THE WAY!

Bleed system, I believe starting from Right Rear, LR, FR,FL. Test 'em out. Often multiple bleedings are required.

You're set! Go lock 'em up. Test in the drive before hitting the road. Inspect for leaks.

Check back tomorrow or Monday for pics.

Project HRP moves on...

[BadAddetude]

As promised, time for an update. With Pics!!

All of the TF999 is out, including the converter pump. Removing the converter was A LOT easier than I thought. It seems that this trans has been out of the vehicle before, because 2 of the 4 bolts that helled the converter to the flex plate/flywheel were different. Still waiting on the engine/trans adapter, and I had to order a snap ring to finalize the t-case build. The next hurdles are shift linkage from trans to the column, starter, mounts, oil cooler lines, and shimming the rear temporarily to keep vibes at bay.

Enough chit chat, here's some pics:

The New:


The old:


The T-case


The case write up will come as soon as I get time, more than likely once the whole install is done. I'll get pics of the SS brake lines too intenseblu. Gotta look out for the Jersey crew!

I'm out!

[BadAddetude]

On A side note:

Wow, those pics are kinda blurry. Hope no one gets sick from it!

[intenseblu]

Originally Posted by BadAddetude

I'll get pics of the SS brake lines too intenseblu. Gotta look out for the Jersey crew!

Thanks ! I just finished my powder coated black diamond plate corner install with LED flushmount tail lights. Maybe in a week or two i can get to the brake lines. Appreciate the write up, now i know what tools to have handy.

[BadAddetude]

IT'S OFFICIAL! She's in!!!!!

But not running yet. The transmission and t-case are in, skid modified and mounts are in place and hung. Minor mods were required to get it right, and it paid off. I'm now waiting on shifter linkages to go from the original column to the new trans, neutral safety switch info, a starter, drive shaft modification, and cooler lines.

Good news everyone! I put a trans cooler in as part of the install, and cameup with a very easy way to mount it. Was documented and write-up is pending. If anyone has any input/experience with running RUBBER COOLER LINES to and from the trans, LET ME KNOW!!!

Also, looking for info on what starter to use. The kit instructions say to use a Early YJ starter, but does not give a starter number, specify solenoid type (incorperated/external) tooth count, noze cone type, ect. Anyone got anything?

I moved in Yeasterday, so the evenings should provide me ample time to start typing this stuff up. There's plenty of pics of everything on my Photobucket album: http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/BadAddetude/

Until then,

LATER!

[TJQ]

Originally Posted by BadAddetude

If anyone has any input/experience with running RUBBER COOLER LINES to and from the trans, LET ME KNOW!!!

I came across this thread today. I'm not sure if you still need the line info but this link has an explanation. It's for an aw4 swap but hose is hose.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4/aw-4-2.htm

[BadAddetude]

Ok, It's been a month since I moved to school. You know I said how I'd have tons of leftover time and would do the write up. Yea, about that...

The trans is in, starter and solenoid in, converter shimmed and bolted, shafts getting lenthened/shortened, linkages getting made, t-case is oiled and not leaking too bad, CPS relocation was done and cooler mounted.

To do list:
-Plumb cooler lines
-install linkages
-devise a NSS system
-acquire a temp gauge and lock-up kit
-fill transmission
-Reattach exhaust
-install shafts
-Drive and enjoy jeep after 2 Months OOS!

TJQ, thanks for the link with the flex line, but I think the 3.50 a foot price is a bit much. This does prove that flex line is feasible though, props for that!

I WILL post a write up of the case build. It was a challenge of sorts but was a awesome project and I hope it works. I'm just glad it didn't leak!

Overall, the trans install itself was straight foreward. I did need to call in the big guns (backhoe) to help with the lift. Folded the windshield down and used a chain and come-along. You could use a motor lift too. Floor jack was not really usable, because the trans is taller then the TF. Picked it up and hung it on the studs provided.

Starter was from an 87 YJ. External Solenoid was needed, easily installed.

Converter bolting and shimming was unorthodox, required special spacers for my application. More details later.

Guys,its late and 5:30 comes early. I PROMISE I'll do this write up! I'm just trying to get it running first!!!

Intenseblu, get those lines on yet? Did I post up the right fitting sizes for you?

Ed (Has plenty of pics on Photobucket for the time being - http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/BadAddetude/ )

[intenseblu]

I'm half way through but i ended up taking apart my front end to change out a caliper and the tie rods.

I'm researching dumping a 700R4 behind the 2.5 after seeing all this. So far looks like its possible with one of the bellhousing patterns it comes in being a direct bolt on but have not seen anyone figure out actually mating it up and figuring out what torque converter to use. B&M has a TH350 kit for the 2.5 however that is appealing as it is not very expensive for what you get (4WD.com).

Things got cold real fast ... hope you have a warm place to work as i am stuck outside finishing