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BadAddetude's Build: Project HRP

15K views 46 replies 11 participants last post by  YJames90 
#1 ·
Ladies and gentleman, I present you with my master plan, step by step. The goal of this is to take my 95 YJ and make it a bit more highway friendly. I call it Project: Highway Readiness Program, or HRP. I know, unique code names are kicka**.


Initially, I was going to do all this at once, with the goal of being ready for school in September, but time, funds and other complications have foced me to break it up into phases.

Phase 1 is my transmission swap. I'm putting in a TH700R4 in place of the stock TF999. While turning out to be expensive, the payoff of having overdrive and a lock-up converter on the highway, and a lower 1st gear would be a all around bonus. The trans will be backed up by a NP231 C/J case, NO adapters. This project will have its own separate write up in time. WITH PICS! The whole swap will be documented closely, showing all the parts I used and the overall cost.

Phase 2 will be a Ford 8.8 rear, 3.55 gears front and rear, and a SYE and CV shaft. 8.8's in decent condition are actually hard to come by in my area, and this prevented me from putting it in so soon. The e-brake set up and brake line mountings will be written-up.

Oddly enough, Phase 3 has already been completed due to necessity. Stainless steel brake lines were installed, due to rotten lines failing one afternoon while on the road. While no pics, were taken, insight to the install will be shared. It was A LOT EASIER of an install than anticipated.

Phase 4 will be a myriad of small components, such as Taurus fan, Dodge 136 amp alt, and "rock lights" for the underbody.

Right now, the 700R swap is underway, with parts coming from Novak Adapters and HESCO. The t-case is out and under the knife, and the TF is set to come out tomorrow. Once the job is completed, and I have spare time at school, the write-up will begin. Much credit needs to be given to the folks that helped me get the know-how to get going here. Once i get the names in front of me I'll include them in the thread. Will post up soon.
 
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#2 ·
i'll be following your thread .. i am in the same boat trying to get it Jersey friendly .. nothing worse than being stuck doing 60 on a road buzzing at 80. dangerous even if you are in a battering ram with wheels.

i have the brake line install to do so hope you post up about that soon.
 
#3 ·
Update:

The TF is out! It was a moderate struggle, but it slid out and hit the ground shortly before 8 pm tonight. Pictures were limited on the removal, but I will show how to remove the converter and flex plate. Now I'm waiting on parts!

Intenseblu, did you already order the lines? The manufacturer of the lines is a company called Classic Tubing in New York. See here: http://www.classictube.com/ . Maybe its cheaper direct from them. More details later. It's not too bad of a job, about 3 hrs work.
 
#4 ·
Consider this thread crawled.
:2thumbsup:
 
#5 ·
I'm putting in a TH700R4 in place of the stock TF999. While turning out to be expensive, the payoff of having overdrive and a lock-up converter on the highway, and a lower 1st gear would be a all around bonus. The trans will be backed up by a NP231 C/J case, NO adapters.
No adapters will be nice - if possible.

Perhaps the below post will negate what you posted above.

Is that correct? Or am I missing something?

Right now, the 700R swap is underway, with parts coming from Novak Adapters and HESCO.
Clarification with clear pictures would be nice if NO adapters were used like you mentioned - thanks.
 
#6 ·
No adapters between the trans and t-case. You need adapters for the engine to the trans. Different bolt pattern and spline counts on the crank.

The adapter for the t-case to the trans was another $400 almost. I got a case for $150, and my 231 c/j requires no additional parts. That's what I meant by no adapters. It's working out so far.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Classic Tubing Pre-Bent Stainless Steel Brake Line Install

Guys, unfortuantely I do not have any pictures of the actual install, but a few pointers for folks thinking about replacing those 13-plus year old brake lines.

Ordered from Q-tec, the Kit from Classic Tubing (http://www.classictube.com/) came in 7 pieces, to cover all 4 corners of your Jeep.

I started by removing ALL lines from the Jeep. Remove the Banjo bolts from the front calipers, and unhook the rear lines where the block meets the left and right hard lines. Let as much of the fluid drain out as possible, perhaps overnight. brake fluid can be tough on your skin, so consider wearing gloves. Once all the fluid is out, get a pair of heavy wire cutters or pliers with cutters in them and have at it.

The rear line has a slide up clip that holds it in place, look and feel around for a tab up top to get ViceGrips on and pull out. Don't waste time with a wrench or saw (Like I did!). Front lines have a Torx head (believe it was T45, replaced them a LONG time before this) holding them down. Remove the airbox, drill out the rivits holding the bracket for the airbox and remove, and press the fender metal in to get to those Torx. PB and a long extension are your best friend!

TIP: Soak the lines at the MC in PB for a few days before the install. Dissimilar metals are there, and often corrosion binds them together VERY WELL! Get a good grip with flare line wrenches or a tight set of ViceGrips. Have a buddy hold the MC, and give 'em a good quick shot with a hammer. Not too hard as to break the MC, just enough to jar 'em loose.

TIP: For the Proportioning valve, cut all the lines off, unhook the wire, and remove the valve with the fittings on it. Take it to the vice wrapped in a clean rag, and with a snug wrench bust all those fittings loose. Don't worre about which line is which, they all have different fittings, so you can't confuse it on the install.

Onto the Lines:

TIP: Wrap the ends of all the lines in electrical tape real well to keep dirt out!

The longest of the lines runs to the rear, along the drivers side frame rail. This frame rail also runs both fuel lines, electric harness, and fuel evap line. It also has a very nice tricky bend out, up, down and back into the bracket.Start by loosening all those lines. Undo fuel line bracket at the bottom of the intae bracket, slip rubber evap line off the canister, and gently pry all the lines out of all the clips along the frame, up to the clips uptop of the frame in the fender. Remove the upper shock bolt and swing the shock down to make working easier. This line comes with a "shipping bend" in the center of the line. Wrap the ends, straighten the bend out, and feed the line in from the front of the Jeep, over the axle, behind all of the lines. When the bent up area gets close to the wheel well, use that shipping bent area to get a bi of flexing going on to snake that bend up and over the frame rail. Once it's up and over, you are practically there. Muscle the to of that bend back under the body tub and it's as good as gold. Snap the line into the uppermost plastic clips and arrange the front of the line as far left (close to the frame) as possible, avoiding fuel and evap lines.

Because I needed a confidence booster before I put the passenger side in, I pit the Front Driver side line in. Very simple, practically drop in. Tape the ends up of course. This line has a bend in it below the MC by the frame rail. From the factory, they only bend these lines 90* or less, so the line will need to be bent just a little bit by hand to get it to go where it should be. Be gentle and you won't kink it. Easiest of the 3.

Now for the passenger side. Get your ratchets and prybars ready! Remove the plastic cover and metal support from the front bumper (if you havnt't already). Loosen the front body mount under the grill. Take the bolt out. Loosen the clamp holding the power steering lines on the drivers side. Unbolt the P/S reservoir to get more flex from the lines. Now that the path is as clear as it gets, fish that line in there. Start with the drivers side. It's really a guess, flex, twist kinda deal. It's tight, but be careful and don't kink the lines. WD-40 will make tight spots slide easy. About half way in on the drivers side start the passenger side. You'll need 2 people now. Watch for A/c lines on the passenger side (if equipped), and on the drivers side, you MUST stay to the OUTSIDE of the shock tower, under the steering shaft. It is a VERY TIGHT squeeze. You'll see the bend that goes around the shock tower, and when its there, you've won! Again, the bend under the MC, where the line goes down then comes back up to hit the back of the Prop valve needs a bit of gentle bending to make it fit right. Once all 3 are in, Hook up your Prop valve, and use the 2 coiled lines to go from MC to Valve. On my kit, the fittings aren't quite right, so I'm going to get different ones, of Metric type. The Front was a M12x1.0, rear was a M10x1.0. The provided fittings for the Prop valve were ok. If you have this problem, don't be like me and attempt to cut and flare these lines!!! Call Classic Tube, tell 'em whats up. They'll hook you up when you send the lines back to them!

The factory rubber lines front and rear were shot on mine, so if you are panning to save them, I don't have much to say. I couldn't tell if they were even separable, it looked as though they were solid crimped. This is entirely possible, because they were DEFINITELY put on before the body. For the extra $70 or so, buy the Russell Stainless Braided lines, stainless brackets and good fittings. You just put new hard lines on, GO ALL THE WAY!

Bleed system, I believe starting from Right Rear, LR, FR,FL. Test 'em out. Often multiple bleedings are required.

You're set! Go lock 'em up. Test in the drive before hitting the road. Inspect for leaks.

Check back tomorrow or Monday for pics.

Project HRP moves on...
 
#9 ·
Update!

As promised, time for an update. With Pics!!

All of the TF999 is out, including the converter pump. Removing the converter was A LOT easier than I thought. It seems that this trans has been out of the vehicle before, because 2 of the 4 bolts that helled the converter to the flex plate/flywheel were different. Still waiting on the engine/trans adapter, and I had to order a snap ring to finalize the t-case build. The next hurdles are shift linkage from trans to the column, starter, mounts, oil cooler lines, and shimming the rear temporarily to keep vibes at bay.

Enough chit chat, here's some pics:

The New:


The old:


The T-case


The case write up will come as soon as I get time, more than likely once the whole install is done. I'll get pics of the SS brake lines too intenseblu. Gotta look out for the Jersey crew!

I'm out!
 
#10 ·
On A side note:

Wow, those pics are kinda blurry. Hope no one gets sick from it!
 
#12 ·
Update!!!

IT'S OFFICIAL! She's in!!!!!

But not running yet. The transmission and t-case are in, skid modified and mounts are in place and hung. Minor mods were required to get it right, and it paid off. I'm now waiting on shifter linkages to go from the original column to the new trans, neutral safety switch info, a starter, drive shaft modification, and cooler lines.

Good news everyone! I put a trans cooler in as part of the install, and cameup with a very easy way to mount it. Was documented and write-up is pending. If anyone has any input/experience with running RUBBER COOLER LINES to and from the trans, LET ME KNOW!!!

Also, looking for info on what starter to use. The kit instructions say to use a Early YJ starter, but does not give a starter number, specify solenoid type (incorperated/external) tooth count, noze cone type, ect. Anyone got anything?

I moved in Yeasterday, so the evenings should provide me ample time to start typing this stuff up. There's plenty of pics of everything on my Photobucket album: http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/BadAddetude/

Until then,

LATER! :wave:
 
#14 ·
Update!!!

Ok, It's been a month since I moved to school. You know I said how I'd have tons of leftover time and would do the write up. Yea, about that...

The trans is in, starter and solenoid in, converter shimmed and bolted, shafts getting lenthened/shortened, linkages getting made, t-case is oiled and not leaking too bad, CPS relocation was done and cooler mounted.

To do list:
-Plumb cooler lines
-install linkages
-devise a NSS system
-acquire a temp gauge and lock-up kit
-fill transmission
-Reattach exhaust
-install shafts
-Drive and enjoy jeep after 2 Months OOS!

TJQ, thanks for the link with the flex line, but I think the 3.50 a foot price is a bit much. This does prove that flex line is feasible though, props for that!

I WILL post a write up of the case build. It was a challenge of sorts but was a awesome project and I hope it works. I'm just glad it didn't leak!

Overall, the trans install itself was straight foreward. I did need to call in the big guns (backhoe) to help with the lift. Folded the windshield down and used a chain and come-along. You could use a motor lift too. Floor jack was not really usable, because the trans is taller then the TF. Picked it up and hung it on the studs provided.

Starter was from an 87 YJ. External Solenoid was needed, easily installed.

Converter bolting and shimming was unorthodox, required special spacers for my application. More details later.

Guys,its late and 5:30 comes early. I PROMISE I'll do this write up! I'm just trying to get it running first!!!

Intenseblu, get those lines on yet? Did I post up the right fitting sizes for you?

Ed (Has plenty of pics on Photobucket for the time being - http://s452.photobucket.com/albums/qq249/BadAddetude/ )
 
#15 ·
I'm half way through but i ended up taking apart my front end to change out a caliper and the tie rods.

I'm researching dumping a 700R4 behind the 2.5 after seeing all this. So far looks like its possible with one of the bellhousing patterns it comes in being a direct bolt on but have not seen anyone figure out actually mating it up and figuring out what torque converter to use. B&M has a TH350 kit for the 2.5 however that is appealing as it is not very expensive for what you get (4WD.com).

Things got cold real fast ... hope you have a warm place to work as i am stuck outside finishing :)
 
#17 ·
NP 231 C/J Split Case, AKA "The Frankencase"

As promised...

Required Components/Parts
NP 231 "J", 1987-1999 Wrangler/Cherokee, 21 or 23 Spline Input



NP 231 "C", 185-1989 Chevy S-10 Series Trucks, 27 Spline Input (IMPORTANT!)





Whatever yard you get these Items from, take whatever you can get at a reasonable price. Shafts, linkages, hoses, Mounting hardware, speedo equipment, vacuum accessories, adapter between trans and t-case. Eliminates part hunting and scavenging halfway through the project.

The Tool's You'll Need:
10 MM Socket/Wrench
15 MM Socket/Wrench
1-1/8'' Socket for yoke nut (Not positive of size, will confirm)
Socket hand crank (Not necessary, but definitely helpful)
Snap Ring Pliers
Regular Pliers
BIG Screwdriver
Tiny Screwdriver
Hammers - Small, large, and the rubber kind (mallet, yes I know!)

The Supplies You'll Need (Get them BEFORE you get your hands dirty!)
PB Blaster
Permatex Black RTV Gasket Maker
Rags, New(Clean) and old, in quantity
Sandpaper (100 grit is good)
Brake cleaner/parts cleaner
Turpentine/Lacquer Thinner
Scrubbing (Brillo/ScotchBrite) Pads

IS THERE A DOCTOR IN THE HOUSE?!

Ok, got you parts, supplies, tools and ambition? Good. Let's get to it.

The procedure itself is actually quite easy, takes about 2/3 days, due to parts cleaning and cure time. DON"T BE IN A HURRY! YOU WON"T GET IT DONE TODAY! Dissassembly instructions are EXACTLY the same for both cases. Both have the same exact parts inside. Most are interchangeable.

You'll need a good work bench as pictured. Clean it well before starting disassembly. If you don't have a workbench, send the wife and kids outside to eat for the week and use the kitchen table. the Jeep requires all to sacrifice! Use air or a fine dust brush on the table, and repeat as necessary throughout. Clean the cases before beginning as well, little scrub brush action and some parts cleaner/ foamy engine brite will do it.

(Drain the oil before Dissassembly!)

Begin by removing the 3 bolts holding the tail cone on. Use the rubber mallet and give it a tap or 2 and break it loose. NP seemed to like Permatex (Must have had a contract with them), so don't be deterred. Take the tiny screwdriver and small hammer and drive it in behind one of the 3 tabs sticking out from the cone itself. The Aluminum is exttremely soft, so be careful not to dig in too much. Tap, pry, relocate, repeat.

You should go from this:



To This:



Gettin' late, need some sack time, will update tomorrow:
-Your first snap ring!
-Watch the oil pump!
-OOOH, aaaa....
-The Planetaries Duke, the Planetaries!
-Bigger is Better (That IS what she said...)

Until then, LATER!
 
#18 ·
The Saga Continues : The Snap Ring...

Tail cone removed. Prepare to split the case.

See the snap ring (Picture Blurry):



The ring does not have tabs with holes for a regular set of snap ring pliers. That is ok for the removal. Use the pins to spread the Ring far enough to slide it over the shaft. Grease helps a bit here.I ruined the ring doing this, and had to get one from my Dealer. It was cheap, don't worry.

Removed:



On the Install, the big screwdriver comes in to play. How is that you ask? Well, I dunno. Honestly, I was struggling with the ring pliers, my dad was standing there, I stopped to do something else for a minute, and turned around and he had it on. Old guy wouldn't tell or show how. I think he forgot! In a way, use the wide flat end of the screwdriver to spread the points of the ring and slide it back on.

Ok, you have the ring off. Your a few bolts away from ATF, aluminum gears and an overgrown bike chain.

Remove the "speedo housing" with the 10 mm bolts, in a similar fashion as the tail cone. Start with rubber mallet, upgrade to screwdriver if necessary.

Should look like this when complete:



STOP!!!!!! You are now looking at a thin metal object. That's an OIL PUMP! Yes, the NP 231 has a oil pump, of sorts at least. The pump just slides off the shaft, but bewarte of the pick up line (Not the one for the ladies...)



Rubber o-ring in the bottom of the pump "holds" the line in. No biggie, but I wan't aware of it when I started, and ir freaked me out.

Ok. Time to unbolt the halves! 15 MM wrench recommended to break 'em loose. Most of them are pretty long. They are all similar length, but be mindful of the 2 opposite corners (Upper left, Bottom right) have sleeves in the bolt holes, to those 2 may be differnt. Keep track of you hardware!

Unbolt:



You will definately have to use the small screwdriver to open it up. Both cases had a TON of RTV holding them together, to the point where bolts were probably not necessary. Start with the small one, then move to the big one carefully:



Then, Slide it apart!



Have a rage under the case before separation, you WILL still have some oil in the bottom.

The guts of the 231:



OOOOH, AHHH! It's sooooo shiny and oily! Just about eeverything you can touch will need to be slid out and removd from the case, like so:



Little wiggle on everything, keep it all even, it'll come right out. Watch your fingers however, some of the gear teeth and aras around the shifter fork felt sharp, or at least rough to where you don't want your fingers caught. The shift fork can be unruley at times as well. Don't count on it staying anywhere for too long.

Like so:



Gettin' late again, need some sack time, will update tomorrow, perhaps the last one!
-The Planetaries Duke, the Planetaries!
-Bigger is Better (That IS what she said...)
-Reassembly tips (sanding, cleaning, repeating!)

Until then, keep the shiny side up and the dirty side down!
 
#20 ·
Nice write up, cant wait for more posts and finished product.

Oh and you must be going to school for some journalism, or you should be
Thanks.

Nope, Engineering at Drexel.
 
#21 ·
Ok, This may very well be the last post for this, so pay attention. Like they say at suicide bomber school, "I'm only going to do this once..."

Ok, case is split in half. Split them both in half at the same time with the same steps and save some time! Have plenty of room and keep every part separate and spread out to avoid confusion (most all the parts ARE interchangeable, but if you are anal like me, you'll want to keep things orderly. Things can get confusing quick!)

Like so:



The mainshaft and the front shaft sproket get slid out at the same time. Tap the front sproket shaft out with the hammer if need be. See picin post above. (TIP: remove the nut on the yoke with a impact gun and pipe wrench, or a strong idiot and a breaker bar.)

With everthing removed, now is a good time to compare parts! The 231 "C" is a bit beefier than the 231 "J", I believe because it was used behind some small cubic inch V8's. The chain is wider, sprockets are heavier (by a bit) and 27 spline input.

Don't believe me?!?! Here's some proof:

Exhibit A:



B:



Close up of the chains:



Ok, enough basking in strength. Time to Reassemble.

The parts you will be needing for reassembly:
From the 231 "C"
-Front half of the case (ncluding shift fork and internals)
-Chain (optional)

From the 231 "J"
-Output Shaft
-Front yoke sprocket/shaft
-Oil pump/pick-up (Don't forget the magnet!!!)
-Rear case half
-"Speedo housing" (and associated hardware
-Tailcone

The oil pump, pickup, magnet, tail cone and bolts are all interchangeable, so if one looks worn or one is newer than another, go for it! Also, most guys would opt to put the heavier "C" chain in (like I did). The chain will not fit perfectly over the "J" gear sets, as it is wider. The "J" chain is more than adequate. I wish I had stuck with the "J" chain. It'll be all right (Or so I tell myself.)

Start by cleaning EVERY LAST COMPONENT! Set aside part you won't be needing, as to avoid wasting time cleaning them (DUH!)

Sandpaper, turpentine, knife, srubbing pad all work well to remove the RTV from everything. Try to keep the scrapings from getting into the planetaries up in the front half. Clean the magnet of metal shavings and wipe the oil screen off. Assemble the pick-up line and slide it back in (assuming it fell out, which it probably did.)

Once everything is clean and pretty, start reassembling.
-Use assembly lube on EVERYTHING!
-Be gentle, yet forceful at times. DON'T BREAK IT!
-Take your time and don't forget anything.

Start by putting the output shaft, yoke shaft AND chain in, all at the same time. Play with them both (You're Sick!) Until they line up and go home. The yoke shaft may need gentle persuasion, but remember, that's a bearing you are beating on, so be careful! Once those 3 are in and lined up (make sure the shift fork/sleeve are lined up properly) you're almost set free.

The rear half is next. With all the surfaces clean and prepped, lay a smooth, average bead of RTV around the OUTSIDE of ALL the bolt holes one one surface, recommended the front case half.. Here's where patience comes in. Let the RTV skin up for about 20 minutes before anything happens. Then, using the 2 sleeved bolt holes and the shift fork dowel, slide the rear half on. loosely put all the bolts in, maybe taking it down to flatten out some of the RTV. Let sit for another 30 min. Come back again, SNUG everything down evenly. If RTV starts squeezing out, stop and give it more time. After 3 hours, it should be cured enough for a bit of torque. After torque, let sit for the night and finish the job next morning.

Next morning, install the oil pump. Find the oil line hole, use you small fingers (sorry fat people) and slide the line up in there. Screwdriver or needle nose may be helpful here. Take note of the 3 tabs sticking out from the sides. Once that's in, the RTV procedure can be repeated for the speedo housing. Line up the shifter dowel and the tabs on the oil pump to the housing, and looesl fit it with the 10MM bolts. Same procedure for the RTV gasket.

Once that's cured the next morning, or whenever its ready, the tailcone can go on. The all day RTV procedure isn't entirely nessisary for this, as it leaks out the end anyway. The bolt holes ARE oriented a certain way, so experiment and get it right before the RTV.

You're done! Put the yoke back on, install the speedo gear and clamp, swap out the vacuum switches so you can plug and play, a pair of channel locks for stud swapping, and you're good to go. You now have a bolt on 231 "Frankencase."

OK. Here's what threw me; The 231 J has a 6 stud pattern. The 231 C has a 5 stud pattern, but it is clocked the same. At the yard. Make sure you get the adapter/mounting plate for a TH350/700R to 231C, not 241. They are VERY different.

Bolt up, fill with ATF, vacuum and vent lines, shifter and you're off!

The 700R install itself is still underway. LOTS of small details now, but It's almost complete. Once that's done, expect to see more on that.

For now (inser clever sign off line here). Over and out. :cheers2:
 
#22 ·
OK, Time for an Update:

Just about ready to fire up! Plumbed (sorta), Mounted, shafts made, links made, bolted, starter, gauge the whole 10 yards! Predicting a Sunday (11/10?) firing.

URGENT!! URGENT!!!

If ANYONE knows ANYTHING about GM columns and neutral safety switches PLEASE CONTACT ME ASAP!!!@#@

Looking forward to lock-up O/D in a YJ! I'll have more in depth write up after the firing and certification, especially now since I dropped Calculus.
 
#23 ·
IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!! MWAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

Yes, folks, at 1320 EST, today's date, the Ol' Warhorse grumbled to a form of life. While not entirely official (not a turn key start), it was a internal combustion engine under its own power, and it did not explode!

About that whole "non turn-key" deal. Yea. I'm having problems with my NSS and reverse lights system, as well as starter/solenoid/relay issues. A lot of wires were traced and troubleshot. Here are my 2 main issues:

The "Green and Brown Wire." The wire on the solenoid (formally mounted on the starter, now remotely relocated to the firewall), had a green wire running to it, to energize it. Everything worked fine when I parked it. I moved the green wore to the proper pin on the solenoid. Did nothing else. Now I have no electric to the wire with the key in the "start" position. At all. I traced that wire, and apparently the PO butchered the wiring up. It is spliced to a brown wire that goes into the main loom, near the power distribution box. I NEED to know where theat brown wire goes. Consulting the Chiltons diagrams showed nothing coming from the PDC. I imagine it goes to the Key somehow, but wisdom from y'all before i tear all my wiring and hair out would be much appreciated.

Also, Chiltons shows the 95 YJ 4.0 starter set up having a Key switch, NSS, Relay, solenoid, and Starter. Is the Relay really necessary with the solenoid? Does anyone else have one? Can I just rely on the solenoid? I don't see why I couldn't, it's been done like that before. It seems this relay and the associated wiring was butchered by a security system install, which may have included a kill switch of some sort. I'm removing the system now. Was wondering if the relay was part of it or Factory, and if I really needed to keep it.

As of now, Phase 1 (I think that's it) is mostly complete. Next weekend will result in a test ride (with luck!) and the following will be the final certification and road test. That'll be the bread on the butter! All in all, it's been a long uphill battle. I hope it's worth it!

Ed
 
#24 ·
BUMP! For another night of viewing and knowledge.

Someone here HAS to have worked with their starter and accompanying wires!
 
#25 ·
Ok, here it is:

Leaving for home tomorrow to work on the Jeep. Still have no answer on a few things, and a few new questions were brewed up this week:

- What year/model GM cars used the steering column set up found in our YJ's?
-How was the NSS set up on trucks using this column and having a 700R in it?
- What color is the wire that comes from the key going to the starter solenoid?
-Is there a fuse included anywheres in the wire between the key and solenoid?
-How does one remove the pinion seal on a D35 (yes, Im about to search, but i figued i'd ask!)
-The order is pinon bearing, crush sleeve, seal, yoke, correct???

C'mon guys, really need some help with this here. I'd like to try and get her turn key, and possibly even rolling this weekend for sea trials!

Soon to come (possibly tonite!) :
-Easiest, quickest Trans oil cooler install Ever!
-Temp Gauge install
-Phase 1: Set up for the Install...

PLEASE HELP WITH MY INQUIRIES!!!!
 
#27 ·
Ok, time for the Weekend Update:

For anyone actually following this thread anymore, I plan on the first movement of the Jeep this weekend. Figured out how to start her up with the old NSS, by grounding it! Fixed the starter wire issue (somehow! Couldn't do it again though!!) all hooked up and started. The old Jeep doesn't quite sound like she used to, with that BIG V8 starter under it, and a few small exhaust leaks. The drive shaft is in, and he angle doesn't look too bad, but I'm definately going to check the angles and avoid the vibes!



Was shortened from stock about 3 inches. Not too bad for guesswork!

Also found the slot for the new NSS on the column. Was tough to get pics, but there is a opening on the top of the column, on the inside (passenger cabin) side of the firewall, by the brake pedal. Now all that needs to be done is mount and wire it. the OE NSS wiring is quite confusing, or at least I thought so. With the switch and the computer in the mix, they really make the whole starer circuit quite complicated.

Foreseen teething problems:
-Brakes need to be bled again, with vacuum.
-Making sure the front d/s doesn't hit the skid
-Linkage adjustments
- 4wd Shifter set up

Remainder to be done:
- NSS wiring
- Lock-up wiring
- Front d/s
- Securing Cooling lines
- Gauge wiring/mounting

I know I keep promising the rest of the write-up, I will get to it. I keep working on it and finding something else wrong, need to guess and make it work, and if I already did the write-up, I'd have gone back and changed it 50 times.

If anyones got a good suggestion on where to mount a singe gauge on the das somewherse that it doesn't look tacky and involve tearing th old gauges out, fill me in!

Keep Jeepin'. :wave:

Later!
 
#28 ·
Automatic Transmission Cooler Install in a YJ

As promised, here's my cheap (relatively), easy, and quick way to install a transmission oil cooler in your YJ and extend your transmissions life 10,000 for every 10 Degrees cooler you run (Fun Facts!).

The merchandise:
Transmission oil Cooler - I used this one here, picked up at a local store:
(Don't have the name in front of me, will look it up) I do know it only ran me $45.

Assorted lines and fittings: My cooler included a section of line, a small fitting useless to me at least, mounting hardware, AND instructions (who needs them anyways!). One might need to pick up barbed line fittings, hose clamps, and some screws/bolts. Figure $10-15 for that.

Metal Fabrications: The metal tabs you're given in the kit aren't strong enough for the use I'm going to show here. They allow the cooler to wobble around too much, so you'll need to have a local metal shop bend you something simple up. Shouldn't cost you much, shouldn't take too long to have done. Figure $40, just to be on the safe side.

The Install:

Open the box up and gawk at your new toy! Next, put a serious face on, throw out that plastic zip tie set up they give you, grab one of the metal brackets in the kit and head for the vice.

Take the metal and bend it center between the first and second pre-drilled holes in the plate. Heat (could probably just use a hairdryer) and a hammer help and keep the tab from breaking.

Go from this:



To this:(Minus the bad shadows: Count the holes!)



Take your newly bent bracket to the fab shop and have 'em made up. Kudos to you if you can do it yourself. I don't have those resources, but I know folks who know folks and got free stainless brackets. Chicks dig stainless.

Anyways, with your new brackets, get your hardware together as shown. It's important to put that bolt in the hole of the bracket before putting the bracket on the cooler.

As shown:



The sheet metal screws seem a bit tiny for the application, but they work well. The piece of rubber/foam keeps the cooler from being beaten up by the bracket and the vibrations. Use a nut driver to avoid putting a hole in your new cooler with a flat head screwdriver.

Figure 1^3.3232:



Finished product:



Do keep in mind that the brackets should be kept in the back, and the in/out lines are going to be on the passenger side. Avoid repeating the procedure 7 times.

Cut the line you were given about 50/50. Put those lines on the cooler before mounting it in the Jeep, and tighten the clamps too.

Here:



I put bolts in the end of the lines to keep em clean. Slide the cooler up and in, in front of the radiator, between it and the bottom of the front grille.

Shown here:



Yes, it's tight, yes loosen that line up, yes be careful. YES, it's possible.

From the bottom:



From the top:



Going to post #2 for picture limitation reasons...
 
#29 ·
OK. The bolts put in your new brackets should line up perfectly with 2 factory drilled holes in the YJ grille. Drop it in. NICE! It's there!



The bolts come though here:



Use a decent size washer and a NYLON lock nut to keep from vibrating loose.

Here comes the tricky part. Bolting it down.



The little shiny thing in there is the wrench! The way that bracke was bent and the holes drilled in it allows JUST enough room for an open end wrench. Use a socket below and tighten her down. The side with the hoses are even trickier. Take your time, it really isn't as bad as it seems to get to.

Run those hoses behind the headlights, keeping them high and protected. Here's where my application differs from your possible install:

Hooking up to an existing system. Determine which line is running "FROM the stock cooler, back to the Transmission". Remove this Line from the cooler, and hook up the top line on the new cooler to the output on the old cooler. Then hook the lower line up to the existing return line to the transmission. The ATF should flow through the stock cooler first, then to the aux. cooler, then to the transmission. This ensures a cool return.

That's it! Add a bit of oil to your trans, fire it up, and check the level. Top off as necessary.

Often, folks wish to put a temp gauge in line to keep tabs on things going on in the transmission. It's simple. Pick up a gauge (generic Auto-Meter gauge will do) with an electronic sender and a mounting bracket.

I put the sender in the feed to the cooling line (I think!) to know that there is a problem early to avoid burning my baby up. Make a fitting up to go in the place of the rubber lines somewheres. It should look something like this:


(The Little Brass thing!)

While I don't have the exact parts used listed in front of me now, I do have a record of what they are, so check for an update here.

Cut a small piece of Rubber line out, and slide the sender in line, using a hose clamp. One wire to the gauge to sender, one hot to the gauge, and gauge lighting optional. Easier that trying to figure out what your woman is blabbering about!

Once I get the Jeep moving and buttoned up, I will do the write up for the swap.I'm guestimating my total cost here is about $2500-3000. About half what I pad for the whole Jeep 3 years ago! It'll be worth it, or at least I hope.

WORD!

-Ed
 
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