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Unread 01-10-2013, 06:27 PM   #1
littleyj87
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1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Winchester, VA
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Bad sputter after intake gasket

The jeep is a 87 wrangler with a 2.5 tbi motor. I just got done replacing my intake/exhaust manifold gasket, as well as my exhaust manifold. I originally had a high idle around 1500 rpm before the gasket change. Now, the jeep idles awesome around 800-900 rpm, with no noticable leaks.

I took it down the road today and for into it, anything more than quarter throttle, it sputters and acts like its hitting a rev limiter.

I want to add that my EGR valve is blocked off. Block off plate on the exhaust manifold, blocked off the tube port, but left the valve attached to the intake, just plugged the vacuum port off.

I unplugged the o2 sensor to see if that would make a difference, but it did nothing.

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Unread 01-11-2013, 12:21 AM   #2
NonRubicon
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I'd spray the area with electrical contact cleaner (flammable but rubber and plastic friendly stuff) and see if there are any intake leaks. I'd also loosen and then re-torque the bolts in sequence. I'd also double check for exhaust leaks where you've disconnected the EGR system.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 12:45 AM   #3
970001zj
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sounds like detonation from bad spark plugs to me
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Unread 01-11-2013, 06:11 AM   #4
littleyj87
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Ill check all of that out later on today. It feels like the computer is pulling fuel with any more than quarter throttle. I pulled the computer out last night to make sure that there weren't any burned circuits. That checked out fine. Map sensor is plugged up and the vacuum line is good too.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 08:51 AM   #5
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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You need to do the adjustments for the 2.5L. Do you have a multimeter and do you have the FSM. There are 4 critical adjustments: WOT, ISA motor, TPS, and the fuel pressure. I would also check the connection for your CTS and your IAT since they are disconnected when you do the manifold and easy to over look. Did you remove the fender to do the manifold? The middle lower bolts are $#$% to do with the fender on!
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:17 AM   #6
littleyj87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
You need to do the adjustments for the 2.5L. Do you have a multimeter and do you have the FSM. There are 4 critical adjustments: WOT, ISA motor, TPS, and the fuel pressure. I would also check the connection for your CTS and your IAT since they are disconnected when you do the manifold and easy to over look. Did you remove the fender to do the manifold? The middle lower bolts are $#$% to do with the fender on!
I do have a multimeter and the fsm as well. As for the Cts so you mean the coolant temp sensor? And I did not pull the fender, I removed the throttle body in order to access the bottom manifold bolts. They were a pain to get to even with removing the tb.
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Unread 01-11-2013, 09:32 AM   #7
Que89YJ
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Pulling the fender makes it a million times easier and only takes 20-30 minutes. It opens the whole side of the engine up. Yes, the coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor. I would also do those adjustments. Check out the TPS first.
Remember to disconnect the battery any time to discobnnect a sensor to reset the ecu. A 10 Mississippi count is long enough.
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Unread 01-12-2013, 10:05 PM   #8
littleyj87
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Thanks for the heads up about pulling the fender! I pulled it last night to double check the manifold bolt torque. The multimeter I have is broken right now, so I'm gonna have to find another. I did unplug the tps sensor just to see if there was a change in idle, and nothing changed when I unplugged it.
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Unread 01-14-2013, 07:03 AM   #9
Que89YJ
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Unplugging the sensor isn't enough on the tps. You need to take a meter to it and see what the resistance is.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 09:00 PM   #10
littleyj87
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I got ahold of another meter and measured resistance in the tps, everything was good there. One thing I realized I forgot to mention is it is backfiring through the intake when it sputters and won't go.
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Unread 01-16-2013, 09:56 PM   #11
Que89YJ
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Timing anytime you backfire.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 05:25 PM   #12
littleyj87
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Well its been a while since I've looked at the jeep. I got pretty busy. But I'm going to try to take a look at my cam/crank timing later on this week.

The problem has gotten a bit worse today though. I parked it outside my garage for the past few days. I fired it up to bring it into the garage, and it died on me right away. Got it started again, and any time I hit the throttle, it wants to die. Luckily with the cold idle, I could just let out the clutch without touching the gas pedal to get it in the garage.

Once I get some more time I'm going to check my timing and check my fuel pressure as well.
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Unread 01-22-2013, 05:37 PM   #13
pasinbuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by littleyj87 View Post
it sputters and acts like its hitting a rev limiter.

I want to add that my EGR valve is blocked off. Block off plate on the exhaust manifold, blocked off the tube port, but left the valve attached to the intake, just plugged the vacuum port off.
Would you explain why the egr is blocked? The exhaust manifold blocked? How?

What is the tube port?
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Unread 01-22-2013, 05:45 PM   #14
littleyj87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasinbuy

Would you explain why the egr is blocked? The exhaust manifold blocked? How?

What is the tube port?
The exhaust manifold is blocked using the block off plate and gasket that came with the new exhaust manifold. The tube port is blocked off using a nickel grinded down a hair to seal the port, with gasket maker on the port side of it to help seal, and the tube threaded back in to seal the nickel against the hole.

I have the EGR valve still attached to the intake, with the vaccum port blocked off.
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Unread 01-24-2013, 10:05 PM   #15
littleyj87
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Checked the timing on the crank, its all in time still. I'm starting to lean towards my ECM since it controls all ignition timing
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