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post #106 of 232 Old 07-09-2013, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
C2tuck
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Yes it looks like that.

Siva283- is there a difference in performance or is one better than the other? If you really don't mind that would be awesome. I can pay shipping, it's no big deal. How hard are they to pull and install? Always been kinda nervous about pulling the dizzy...you have to set the timing once you replace it?

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post #107 of 232 Old 07-10-2013, 05:22 AM
Siva283
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I will get it from storage Saturday and can send it Monday we can PM the details. I get further discounts if there is a business address I can send it to but if not no worries. I dont think there is any performance increase its just easier to replace parts and it seems to be liked better than the older bigger dizzy for this reason.

Changing it isnt hard. The bottom is slotted for the oil pump drive so if the slot is oriented different you may need to use a screw driver to spin the oil pump shaft a little at a time until it lines up. So before you start look at where the rotor is pointing. Orient the new one to point in the same spot thats all there is to setting the timing part of it. Once you have the rotor oriented correctly on the new one mark it. Now take the old one out and slide the new one in. Tighten the bolt on the hold down and hook up the sensor and wires. I am still half asleep so if this doesnt make sense let me know and I will try to explain it better with more detail.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #108 of 232 Old 07-10-2013, 06:55 AM
laybackman
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Actually if you pull the old distributor you do not need to bring the engine up to TDC.
#1 Remove the cap.

#2 NOTE GENERAL POSITION OF THE ROTOR...VERY IMPORTANT! MARK THE BASE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR.

#3 Once pulled note where the rotor ENDED UP. It will move a little bit while disengaging the helical cut gear at the bottom of the distributor from the matching gear on the camshaft. MARK IT AGAIN. Make sure you make a different mark a second time.

#4 Position the rotor in the new distributor in the same position your old rotor was after you pulled it out.

#5 GENTLY slide the new distributor in. When it begins to engage the oil pump shaft the helical cut gear will also engage the matching gear on the cam shaft. The rotor will move forward a little.

#6 Pop on the cap.

Keep in mind an engine is always in time but not necessarily on TDC of #1 or any other given cylinder for that matter. As long as you do not disturb the engine during the distributor swap and you orientate your new distributor rotor like the old one was will be OK.

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #109 of 232 Old 07-10-2013, 06:59 AM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
Actually if you pull the old distributor you do not need to bring the engine up to TDC.
#1 Remove the cap.

#2 NOTE GENERAL POSITION OF THE ROTOR...VERY IMPORTANT! MARK THE BASE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR.

#3 Once pulled note where the rotor ENDED UP. It will move a little bit while disengaging the helical cut gear at the bottom of the distributor from the matching gear on the camshaft. MARK IT AGAIN. Make sure you make a different mark a second time.

#4 Position the rotor in the new distributor in the same position your old rotor was after you pulled it out.

#5 GENTLY slide the new distributor in. When it begins to engage the oil pump shaft the helical cut gear will also engage the matching gear on the cam shaft. The rotor will move forward a little.

#6 Pop on the cap.

Keep in mind an engine is always in time but not necessarily on TDC of #1 or any other given cylinder for that matter. As long as you do not disturb the engine during the distributor swap and you orientate your new distributor rotor like the old one was will be OK.
This is what I was trying to say basically. Though not as eloquently guess I was a little more than half asleep.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #110 of 232 Old 07-10-2013, 07:01 AM
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
This is what I was trying to say basically. Though not as eloquently guess I was a little more than half asleep.
Together we almost have one brain!!!!!!!!

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #111 of 232 Old 07-10-2013, 07:46 AM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
Together we almost have one brain!!!!!!!!
I was thinking more like half but almost used loosely works too.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #112 of 232 Old 07-10-2013, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
C2tuck
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Ok guys...thanks for the tips. Didn't have a chance to work on it tonight but hopefully will tomorrow evening. Will let you know what I find out.
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post #113 of 232 Old 07-13-2013, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
C2tuck
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Ok. I pulled the dist out and there still seems to be no way to get to the pickup to change it. Any more tips?

Siva283- please send that dizzy if you have it. Pm me for info
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post #114 of 232 Old 07-13-2013, 10:15 AM
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2tuck View Post
Ok. I pulled the dist out and there still seems to be no way to get to the pickup to change it. Any more tips?

Siva283- please send that dizzy if you have it. Pm me for info
Tap the roll pin out of the distributor drive gear which holds it onto the distributor shaft.. Remove the gear. Now the shaft should slide out of the distributor body.

NOTE the position of all the parts.

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #115 of 232 Old 07-13-2013, 10:18 AM
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I was thinking more like half but almost used loosely works too.
I have goldfish memory. Proud of it, too. I earned it.

***--- Wrecking Crew member ---***
"I've prolly been around longer than you think"
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post #116 of 232 Old 07-13-2013, 08:41 PM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2tuck
Ok. I pulled the dist out and there still seems to be no way to get to the pickup to change it. Any more tips?

Siva283- please send that dizzy if you have it. Pm me for info
I am hunting for it. I moved recently and it was not where I thought it was. I'll keep you updated

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #117 of 232 Old 07-13-2013, 08:42 PM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ

I have goldfish memory. Proud of it, too. I earned it.
Lol my memory isn't much better.

Sent from my iPad using JeepForum

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
Siva283 is offline  
post #118 of 232 Old 07-17-2013, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
C2tuck
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Location: Saint Jo
Posts: 85
Ok. So I just went and bought a new dizzy ( it was $6 more than the sensor I was trying to replace) and the problem is still there...still hesitates when you goose it while idling and backfires on the highway. Any other suggestions??
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post #119 of 232 Old 07-17-2013, 08:02 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Ok this is a long shot but I had some of the same type of things going on.
Even though mine is a 4.0L it was built in the same year.
Apparently mine was built in the later part of 93, so they used a 94/95 distributor.
When using the 93 distributor mine acted pretty much the same as yours.
Put a 95 distributor and have not had a problem since.
93 distributor If you look at the last picture of the distibutor it looks like the one you have in your Jeep. (top view)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...fier=88490_0_0_
Now look at the top view of the 95.
I think this is the one that probably came stock in your Jeep.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=176435_0_0_
Just take the new one out that you installed and change it for a 95.
It is worth a shot and will not cost you anything.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list. www.mijc.org
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post #120 of 232 Old 07-18-2013, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
C2tuck
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Saint Jo
Posts: 85
So is it a defective distributor for that year? Surely it hasn't been running this way for the PO...it has 120k miles on it...
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