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Unread 04-05-2011, 09:40 PM   #1
JonsBlue90
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BA10/AX15 question

So, on my way up to NY the other day, after everything else that has gone wrong the last three weeks (wife's car needing a radiator, then the head gasket going two weeks later, my puppy died, and lots of other stuff), my BA10 decided that it didn't love me anymore.

Found an AX15 that a buddy had with only 40k on it, and grabbed it from him with the tcase bolted on. I figured while I was in there anyway, I might as well throw a new clutch in. He ordered the clutch for my vehicle, a 90 Wrangler. I didn't even think about the difference with the clutch/throwout bearing, etc.

The AX15 has an external slave, so I'm guessing it's a 94+.

The clutch kit I got, has the throwout bearing that is in the BA10. Obviously, this won't work with an AX15 with external slave. I would also imagine that I'm going to run into pilot bearing issues.

So the question of the day is, do I bite the bullet, return the clutch, and get the proper clutch, or can I swap bell housings out, and put the BA10 bell housing on the AX15, get a new pilot bearing, and hope for the best? I kind of like this option, because I know that the master will push the slave, and I won't need to rig a line from the master to the slave. Also, will the clutch for any 94+ YJ work, as I'm not sure what year this trans is.

I did a search, and it seems like the bell housing will fit... but since I'm going to run into pilot bearing issues anyway, would it be worth swapping the clutch? And if that's the case, any advice for swapping out the plastic hose out of the external slave to something that doesn't feel so flimsy? Also, I'm not quite sure how I'd attach the plastic hose to the master.

I'm sure if I had more patience, I would have been able to find the answers to all of my questions, but I'm in a pinch, stuck 100 miles from home, and am quite honestly too tired physically and mentally to dig through endless posts. Any help would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks guys.

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Unread 04-05-2011, 09:51 PM   #2
Mean Max
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The bellhousing swap is a no-go. Not possible.

Do you have the AX-15 clutch fork/release lever?

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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 04-05-2011, 09:57 PM   #3
JonsBlue90
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Yes, everything is there... I had to pop it off the engine that it was attached to...

For what it's worth, will the pressure plate/disk work with the throwout bearing that's still in the AX15? I mean, it's used, and I'd rather replace it, but there IS only 40k on it.
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Unread 04-05-2011, 09:59 PM   #4
Mean Max
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What is the pedigree of the donor? Model? Year?

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Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 04-05-2011, 10:01 PM   #5
JonsBlue90
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An engine/trans/tcase combo sitting on a rusted out trailer body. I have NO idea, my guy said it would bolt on, which it looks like it will, minus the throwout bearing and pilot bearing.
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Unread 04-05-2011, 10:02 PM   #6
JonsBlue90
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The only thing I know about it is it's out of a YJ, and he originally bought it for the tcase. He was going to put it on a 95 YJ
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Unread 04-05-2011, 10:13 PM   #7
Mean Max
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Okay, I think you're in business. The TJ uses a concave flywheel, so they're a different animal.

You can try using the 4.0L flywheel, but I'm not able to advise you ahead of time if it's compatible with your 4.2L crankshaft.

As for the pilot bearing, you may have to source a specialty bearing (bushing) from Novak that fits in your 4.2L crankshaft and has the .750" ID for the AX input shaft.

Otherwise, a '94-'95 4.0L clutch kit should be perfect, as well as the throwout bearing.

You can buy a pre-bled clutch master/hose/slave combo (also for the '94-'95 YJ) and be good to go. The only issue is that the rod from the master to the clutch pedal has either a smaller or larger (gimme a break, I'm old....) hole in the end that attaches to the pedal. Not a big deal to overcome.

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Quote:
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 04:59 PM   #8
JonsBlue90
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Max, thanks for all the advice... I haven't checked in, but finally got the trans finished yesterday.

I have another slight problem, that I can use some advice with. Since it's related to this, I figured I'd post here instead of making a new thread.

I have a 1 inch Skyjacker TC drop. When I bolted the skid plate back on, one side lined up fine with the drop bar, but on the other side the front and back lined up fine, but the middle hole on the bar is about 3/4 of an inch off from where it should be. How the heck does that happen??? It's like the hole in the bar moved while it was out lol. At first I thought something wasn't lined up right, but the drivers side drop has all three bolts in, but the passenger side just has the front and rear in. The hole in the skid lines up with the frame.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 05:14 PM   #9
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I'd try backing off the other 5,and then try to get the 6th one started by hand if you haven't tried that yet.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 05:14 PM   #10
Mean Max
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Turn the space around end to end. The skid plate holes are not evenly spaced.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 05:17 PM   #11
JonsBlue90
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Tried lining everything up by hand, no good...

The drop was originally installed with the Skyjacker logo facing out. This is the way I put it back in, and tried both bars on each side, had the same problem on the passenger side with both.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 06:06 PM   #12
5-90
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Clutch friction is the same - pilot bushing & hydraulics are not.

The pilot bushing can be replaced with one from an early 1970's CJ V8-304 and three-speed manual, which takes care of that.

You can put the internal slave on the shelf and sell it to someone with a Peugeot - damn things go out for no reason all the time (and it can be used when converting to an AX-15i just as easily.) However, you'd have to buy a TO bearing for the external - this is an option for you if they don't have the external kit on hand when you go back in.

The bellhousing from the BA-10 will not RPT NOT fit on the AX-15, and you'd have to change the front bearing retainer as well (the internal slave won't fit over the sleeve for the external slave throwout bearing.)

Frankly, you'd be better off doing the hydraulic conversion to the external slave while you're about it, and finish the job off right.

Bear in mind that your pilot bushing will want to continue to be replaced with that CJ unit, but you can go ahead and use the later clutch kit otherwise.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 08:50 PM   #13
superduty59
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If your YJ is a 1990 then it should already have the AX-15 in it. 88 1/2 was when they started putting in the AX-15. Also in a BA-10 swap to AX-15 thread it says you can either use either bell housing. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/ If it was me though I would use the external bell housing.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 09:30 AM   #14
lincolnmatthews
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pilot bushing?? please help

A question for 5-90, you state with the previous reply that the pilot bearing out of an early CJ will have to be continually replaced, why is that? I don't know I am going to have this swap done on my 87, (with the AX-15) & am trying to get the pieces together for my indy. ( at this point I don't have time to do it this June or?. I am concerned that if I get this bearing for an early CJ that it will have to be replaced regular basis?. Or should I order a bushing or? from Novak or AA, thanks for the info.
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Unread 05-19-2011, 09:39 AM   #15
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Quote:
Tried lining everything up by hand, no good...

The drop was originally installed with the Skyjacker logo facing out. This is the way I put it back in, and tried both bars on each side, had the same problem on the passenger side with both.
Ran into the exact same problem--it is as Max says--they only line up one way. When doing it alone or without a jack(yeah, that happened) you have to torque the bolts VERY evenly. The holes will never FULLY line up, but they are big enough to let the bolts into the frame without pinching them. Takes a lot of pushing and pulling if you don't have any helpers.
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