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-   -   AX5 Output Shaft Seal Job w Pics (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/ax5-output-shaft-seal-job-w-pics-1041722/)

Feetwet 05-30-2010 08:19 AM

AX5 Output Shaft Seal Job w Pics
 
I'll throw this up here in hopes that those who've never done this type of repair may find it a little less intimidating. I developed a steady leak at the back of my AX5. It was 10w30 oil, which I run in my transmission. I cleaned up all the grime, trees and dead fish jammed in there and tracked it down to a weep hole at the bottom rear of the flange the Transfer case bolts to, passenger side.

Here 's the weep hole, just below the TC bolt.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/WeepHole.jpg

I talked with Mean Max and he had several good pics of the AX5 but none showed this hole. There shouldn't be any oil in this part of the transmission, the seal is made up at the output shaft. I figured the seal had let go and the job would be to pull the Transfer case and replace the seal.

Begin with the usual, PB Blaster on the 6 (9/16") transfer Case mounting nuts, block the tires, support the transmission, remove the transmission mounting bracket nuts ( 5/8" ), torque arm stud nut ( 9/16" ) and pull the skid plate (3/4" ). Place Transfer case in Neutral and unbolt the front driveshaft ( 8mm ) from the TC yoke. Wrap the Ujoint with tape to keep the caps in place and tie the DS to the frame rail, out of the way. Drain the Transmission (15/16ths ) and the Transfer Case ( 30mm ). Now mark the yoke orientation and unbolt the rear driveshaft ( 8mm ). Tape Ujoint and slide it out of the Transfer case tail cone and set it aside.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b.../DSHanging.jpg

On the driver side of transfer case, disconnect the Range Lever Shift Rod by prying it out of the rubber bushing, gently pry off the vacuum harness and disconnect the vent hose.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...onnections.jpg

At the rear of the TC, disconnect the speedo plug and tie it up out of the way.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...eal/Speedo.jpg

Lower the support jack a bit to access the top two TC mounting nuts. Don't put too much stress on the exhaust pipe going under the oil pan.
Your choice of tools now to remove the mounting nuts, it's very tight in there. I used a 4" x 9/16" open end wrench on some, 9/16" box on some and 9/16" flare wrench on others. A couple of them took 1.3 million turns each, an 1/8" at a time....:thumbdown: :laugh:

I put a floor jack under the TC for support and with all the nuts off, slid the TC to the rear and out. Probably didn't need the floor jack but I liked the insurance.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/TCaseOut.jpg

Here's the jacking setup. The floor jack is actually behind the Transmission, not under it.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b.../JackSetup.jpg

Rear of the AX5 cleaned up. Weep hole is at the bottom of lower center cutout. None of Mean Max's AX5 pics had this hole. Maybe it's a late '95 thing. Camera angle makes output shaft look off center.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...X5WeepHole.jpg

Here are the seals. The Transfer Case input seal, on the right, was in perfect shape so I elected not to change it. I'm doing a SYE conversion soon, with TC in place, and I'll change it then.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...Seal/Seals.jpg

Use your seal puller of choice but it popped right out.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...ealRemoval.jpg

i used a VERY light coat of RTV on the seal race but it's not required according to the FSM, and I pressed the seal in by hand, solid face toward rear. It sits about 1/8" behind the face of the housing when pushed back tight. Prime the inside face of the seal with 10W30 oil.

While I had the TC out I gave it a quick face lift. Cleaned with Brake Cleaner, 2 coats of gray self-etching primer and 3 coats of Engine enamel. Should be easier to hose off the moose hair and Hummer debris now. :laugh:
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...l/PaintJob.jpg

Here you can see the vent tube, vacuum fitting and range lever. Three of the studs turned out instead of the nuts coming off but I still had three studs to help locate the Case during reinstall.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...Frontready.jpg

From left to right, drain and fill plugs, speedo housing and Tail cone.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b.../RearReady.jpg

Transfer case back in place. I just benchpressed it up, balanced on one knee, and turned the shaft by hand til the splines lined up and slid it in. Install 6 nuts and torque to 26ftlbs. I don't know how you get a torque wrench on them, I just made em goodntight.
I changed out the driveshaft Ujoints just for fun (the yellow marking paint) but that writeup is already out there.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...ackInPlace.jpg

From the rear, ready to install the skid.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...rSkidplate.jpg

Well that's about it. Fill the transmission with 10w30, the Transfer case with ATF Dextron II, and connect the driveshafts @170in.lbs. Plug in the Speedo and Vacuum plug, attach the vent hose and press the shift arm rod back into the Range Lever. Torque the skid plate bolts to 30ftlbs, lower the jack and tighten the Transmission Mounting nuts and Torque Arm stud @26ftlbs. and go find something to climb. :cheers:

Thanks for reading, I hope this helps someone out there.
Regards, Doc.

Mean Max 05-30-2010 09:21 AM

Excellent write-up, pics & text really help a lot! Thanks Doc! :thumbsup:

Max :cheers2:

Sleuthhound 05-30-2010 12:25 PM

Totally digging the blue TC.

Feetwet 05-30-2010 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean Max (Post 9545709)
Excellent write-up, pics & text really help a lot! Thanks Doc! :thumbsup:

Max :cheers2:

Thanks for your help Max, She's bone dry after 120 miles so far...:thumbsup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleuthhound (Post 9546274)
Totally digging the blue TC.

Thanks Sleuth, I think it looks pretty sharp myownself.:2thumbsup:

Mean Max 05-30-2010 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Feetwet (Post 9547261)
Thanks for your help Max, She's bone dry after 120 miles so far...:thumbsup:


Thanks Sleuth, I think it looks pretty sharp myownself.:2thumbsup:

You're welcome Doc! :thumbsup:

As soon as I hit the Lotto, I'm headed around the world to meet & wheel with the folks I've met here on JF. I guess I'll be stopping by South Jersey, huh? :D

Max :cheers2:

Feetwet 05-30-2010 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean Max (Post 9547269)
You're welcome Doc! :thumbsup:

As soon as I hit the Lotto, I'm headed around the world to meet & wheel with the folks I've met here on JF. I guess I'll be stopping by South Jersey, huh? :D

Max :cheers2:

:laugh: You're welcome anytime. :laugh:
This little island on the sea is NUTS right now with Memorial Day weekend crowds, but mostly its quiet with great fishing out the front or back door and some secret forest wheeling :shhh: just a few miles inland. Everyone thinks the only place to wheel it around here is Wharton State Forest but we locals know better.
Put me on your " Lotto List"....:cheers2:

DDove 05-30-2010 11:04 PM

Thanks for the write-up. I need to do the same thing. Where did you get the seal ? It looked like a napa emblem on the box. I have a 94 yj ax-5 2.5 would that be the same seal ? I would think so. If it was napa would you happen to still have the part number? Thanks again for the write up. Have a good Memorial Day

Feetwet 05-31-2010 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DDove (Post 9548655)
Thanks for the write-up. I need to do the same thing. Where did you get the seal ? It looked like a napa emblem on the box. I have a 94 yj ax-5 2.5 would that be the same seal ? I would think so. If it was napa would you happen to still have the part number? Thanks again for the write up. Have a good Memorial Day

Hey DDove. The picture of the seals could have been clearer. The seal on the left is the one you need, NAPA Part #19601. According to your specs it should be the same.

Thanks for the Holiday sentiment. I've got the day off and I don't know whether to wheel the Jeep or go chase flounder. Maybe I'll do both...:laugh:
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...c/IMG_0767.jpg

Jerrys89yj 10-26-2010 07:08 PM

Thank you for the info. I removed the transmission yesterday for a clutch repair. After searching for transmission leak, I found your article. I had the same problem on my ax15 transmission.

ZacoWacko 10-26-2010 09:11 PM

Awesome write up. Have same problem and have been looking for a faq for it. Thanks a million. Hopefully I will finally do this now.

On side note, what is a torque arm stud? I have something missing next to my transmission mount on drivers side. Been trying to figure out what for. Seems like there should be a bracket or something to it. Maybe a pic of it. Sorry for hijacking. :rolleyes:

Feetwet 10-27-2010 07:04 AM

Not a hijack at all. :cheers2:
I'm glad the writeup was helpful.

The part you need is top center of this pic, along with the two round bushings. It mounts at the side/bottom of the transmission bracket and bolts through the skid plate. Helps prevent twisting of the transmission under load.
Original Replacement Parts 52017534K - Engine & Transmission Mount for 91-95 Jeep® Wrangler YJ - Quadratec

Read this excellent writeup from Mean Max, from the YJ FAQs. The torque arm stud is clearly visible in pic #5.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...cement-903109/

ZacoWacko 10-27-2010 08:30 AM

Yep, that's what's missing on mine. The bracket it is bolted to has also been cut where it mounts to the exhaust. Would it be bad to mount the stud and leave it unsolved from the exhaust? Don't seem to bother the exhaust, but I should probably find a stud. Probably will end up having to buy a whole mount kit just to get this stud. Mounts are red and look poly.

I have tranny and tcase leaking were they mount together. U think it could just be the seals on each? I was told it can be hard to push the seals on, without proper tool, without tearing them up. Has me scared to try. How hard was it to press urs in?

Feetwet 10-27-2010 09:26 AM

Taken directly from my writeup...

"I used a VERY light coat of RTV on the seal race but it's not required according to the FSM, and I pressed the seal in by hand, solid face toward rear. It sits about 1/8" behind the face of the housing when pushed back tight. Prime the inside face of the seal with 10W30 oil.

If you don't have the mounting point for the stud it's probably time to replace the whole mount. Refer to Max's writeup, it ain't that hard (or expensive...).

ZacoWacko 10-27-2010 09:42 AM

I have the mounting point for stud but not exhaust. The bracket isn't included in mount kit. Wanting to know if necessary to mount to exhaust. Don't know that it does much on that side. :confused:

Feetwet 10-27-2010 10:19 AM

Gotcha. If the rest of your hangers are in good shape I would say you should be fine. Can you fab up a small tab-type deal and weld it in? Some support there would be helpful to take the strain off your manifold downpipe bolts.

Edit:
You can search online at various Jeep Parts sites for the bracket. Here's one listing...
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=35148

It may not be the exact one you need but you get the idea. Junkyards are also an option.


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