Ax15+ What year do I have? slave cylinders are different.
Just got finished replacing my clutch and slave on my yj. I have the 4.2l w/ an ax15 swapped in. Started going through alot of clutch fluid so decided to replace everything. Spent like 1/2 an hour now bleeding the clutch. Somethings definetly not right. Still grinds and grinds. have to turn off the thing just to get it into reverse. I wasn't sure what year slave cyl. was so went with the one that came with the clutch kit. Which was the same part # from 87-91, but there was also a different number for 92 and 93. What could the difference be? Other than internal to external( yah yah I now I should hit up the external swap at the same time). Any suggestions appreciated, now back to skimming the old threads for help. Thanks.
I compared the 93 and 87 internal slave cylinders side by side and I really couldn't find any difference at all, not really sure what makes them different. When I e-mailed advance adapters asking for advice on the BA/10 to AX 15 swap, I was told to use the BA/10 clutch kit with the 93 tranny (which matches what Richmond88YJ stated in his AX 15 swap thread). My AX 15 is sitting on blocks in my garage with the BA 10 next to it while I wait for a backordered flywheel (mine was pretty beat up and unusable). The 87 slave cylinder fit perfectly on the AX 15output shaft and the pilot bearing that came with the kit looks like the right size.
Assuming that the tranny you put in is in good shape, not really sure what the problem is that you are having. Would be very interested in finding out how you resolve it in case I run into the same issue.
87 YJ 4.2L, Weber 32/36, rear bumper tire carrier, nutter bypass, RE 4 inch lift, SYE, AX 15, lined the body tub
"Baby when you said you wanted a project jeep I expected you to spend a lot of money on it" <---Worlds best wife!!!
It might be something internal in the tranny that is causing the grinding. How many miles are on your tranny? The syncros may have to be replaced. These help the shaft begin to spin with the movement of the input shaft and allow a smooth shift into gear. They are prone to wear after so many miles.
got 105 k and change unless its been turned back without me knowing. i just bought it a month ago and im assuming thats the true milage. how much is a syncros gonna hit me for? and how much work goes into replacing it
I know that I wasn't sure what year my tranny was from. But I had 3 different slaves sitting in front of me. I couldn't tell them apart. The tranny was working fine until I started going through lots of fluid in the clutch, then it started getting harder and harder to shift so i decided to replace everything before I did start to hurt the tranny. When I go for reverse, it doesn't just grind then go in, you can feel everything spinning at full rpm as if the clutch is doing nothing. Bleeding seems to make no difference. Was hoping my problem could've been w/ the different slaves. I'm kinda glad i went w/ the cheap slave that came with the kit, as all the quality ones were between 2-300 dollars. One thing I noticed w/ the slaves, was the cheap was held closed w/ plastic straps, the better ones weren't and when you compressed the slave by hand there was a metal sleeve that pertruded where the input shaft goes through but not on the chearper one. Could I need a different master cylinder? Worked fine before though. Ahhhhh so frustrating. gonna look into getting a tranny jack now though, half the time involved was having to seperate the tc, and all the extra manual work.
Well found out I can rent a tranny jack 5 min away from me, $20 a day. That should save me some time and grief. now if i only knew what I was going to be trying to fix. Been looking around the site al last night and all morning. Oh the headaches. gonna need to find out why the slaves are differernt through out the years.
Could I be bleeding it wrong? Any difference with the master cylinder cap on or off as long as I'm not letting it run out of fluid. Put a piece of clear tubing on the nipple coming off of the slave tubes, put it into a jar of brake fluid. Then pump the clutch 5 or 6 times, hold pedal to the floor crack bleeder nipple, watch fluid flow through tube, tighten nipple back up, repeat a 100 times until solid stream of fluid is visible, with no bubbles. Gone through this process for like 20 minutes yesterday and the day before. Could I be doing something wrong??
What about the masterc ylinder running dry like it had when we were replacing anything, do i gotta bleed that seperatly, or is bleeding the slave 100 times gonna recirculate everything through the system enough.
I fail, no tag How would I go about bleeding the master cylinder? Mine's not leaking but there's a lil but of slop where the pedal connects to the pushrod. I guess there's one thing that i could try, atleast replacing the mc is a quick job, compared to the slave. Couldn't be that expensive of a part.
i win, found the tag but the numbers are almost gone 53005360 guess mine's an 89-91. Thats good atleast I don't have the wrong slave. The instructions said not to extend or compress the slave and not to break the straps. but I read all that as I looked up to seeing my buddy with the straps cracked plunging it in and out. Why is it so crucial not to break the straps. The better quality ones never had straps holding them compressed?
I recently did a AX15 swap in my 88 YJ for the BA.My bellhousing is a external and Im still running the BA internal slave with no problems.The 2 biggest issues I had was making darn sure the 4 o-rings on the slave are perfect or they will can blow out from air in the lines.I found this out the hard way.
The second issue I had was bleeding it all out just right.Which for me didnt happen with just bleeding the slave nipple at the tranny.I ended up just loosening the line at the back of the master just enough for fluid to come out.This was of course having someone pump the pedal a few times and holding it to the floor then slowly open the line up for a few seconds then snug it back up.Its a pretty tight spot to get a wrench into by the firewall,so be careful not to strip the fitting IIRC its a 10mm.I repeated this several times as well as rebleeding the bleeder at the tranny again.The line at the master will help bleed out any small air pockets in the master at least this worked well for me.After a few times the pedal finally got nice and firm when before just bleeding the slave it still had alot of air and play.Good luck
I just completed my AX-15/231 swap in my 87. My AX is an early model with the internal slave. I stuck with it for the same reason, low on funds and I can always do it later.
I was lucky enough to have the old original slave that came with the AX and could compare it to the slave for my BA (which is almost new). The only difference between the 2 different slave cylinders are the fluid tubes. I was warned not to remove the tubes from my functioning unit unless it was the last resort. Aparently they like to leak if you change them over to another cylinder. I "pursuaded" the tubes on my good slave to fit into the AX housing and all is good. My clutch shifts just fine.
Try bleeding your clutch in this fashion:
1 - open the bleeder valve
2 - depress the pedal and watch the fluid for air
3 - close valve before releasing pedal
4 - release pedal and check fluid level
5 - repeat until no air is seen or all is working properly
This is what I call bleeding the clutch without pressure. This has given me the best results of anything I have tried on many different vehicles. When you pump the pedal 111 times, you churn up the air that is trapped into a 'froth' and it will harder to remove. If you happen to have let it sit overnight, now is the perfect time to do it. The air would have settled into a large pocket. If this doesn't work, you may have a problem with your master cylinder.
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